Now we have spent many hours together reading the thread including the original post.

TS How did you solve the big problem?
Because it must be clear by now.
 
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solofss2
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Rejäl said:
Which small houses are built with metal studs in the exterior walls?

Not allowing nails to penetrate the vapor barrier is taking it a bit too far...
Mostly partition walls in apartment buildings, but also some row houses with concrete framework.

The problem is that metal studs for exterior walls are largely made up of holes to avoid becoming a thermal bridge, and if you do manage to hit the metal with a nail, it doesn't hold very well...

Rejäl said:
I've built stick-built houses my entire career and always install the lintel first regardless if it's unpainted or painted before installation...
I have primarily worked on the prefabricated side but I think there shouldn't be any difference. 95% of all apartments and houses today have drywall jambs; wooden jambs aren't exactly gaining ground.
 
If nothing more has failed, such as facade paint after 9 years, then TS has gotten off lightly with a small board.

I have a feeling there will be several threads...
 
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Jontha
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M missk79 said:
Hello!
We've lived in our house for about nine years. So, of course, not everything is completely "new" anymore. But one day, when I was walking through the front door, the wooden door reveal simply fell down on me. Luckily, I still had my bike helmet on my head. However, the board hit my hand, and I got a bruise there.

The reveal was glued, and I don't know how long you can expect the glue to last, but it's quite frightening that it can come loose so that the board falls down...

Then we started looking at the actual construction, and we saw that the horizontal reveal board is squeezed between the vertical boards. If it had been placed on top of the vertical ones, it would have been held in place and couldn't have fallen down. Wouldn't that have been a better construction? Does anyone know if there's a building standard for this kind of thing? The reveal boards came pre-cut from the house company, so it wasn't a mistake by the carpenters.

I'm in discussions with the house company about this, and they've sent a construction drawing showing they've done it correctly, but I want to say that in that case, the drawing is wrong.

Does anyone know if there's a building standard for this kind of thing? For me, not being in the industry and working at a desk, it's still obvious that you should mount the boards so they're not at risk of falling on your head when you enter through the front door. In other words, the horizontal on top of the vertical.

Sure, we could screw the board in ourselves to make sure it stays securely... but now it's become a matter of principle for me... so what do you say, what's the best way to mount a reveal?
Put the piece in without complicating things. Regardless of their response, it's just going to drain everyone's energy. The construction company is creating job opportunities, and in these tough times, they can focus on other challenges!
 
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Bert Karlsson4 and 1 other
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Rejäl said:
Have been building stick-built houses my entire career and always install the lintel first regardless of whether it's unpainted or painted before installation..
Yes, you can do that, but then you have no interest in the aesthetic impression (in my opinion).
 
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A
Dan1891 Dan1891 said:
Yes, you can do that, but then you have no interest in the aesthetic impression (I think).
If you paint the sides, it looks just as nice, only the top piece stays on its own and doesn't risk falling down😊
 
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Roger Fundin
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Rejäl said:
If you paint the sides, it looks just as nice, just that the top piece stays on its own without the risk of falling down 😊
Well, everyone has their own taste :)
 
M missk79 said:
Hi!
We have lived in our house for about nine years. So clearly, not everything is "new" anymore. But one day when I was entering through the front door, the wooden door jamb simply fell right on me. Luckily, I still had my bicycle helmet on. However, the board hit my hand and I got a bruise there.
😢😢😢😢😢😢
 
Oh my God! Only on this forum can there be heated debates, "75" different posts about how it should be avoided. Who can be reported, what is the ugliest, who has done wrong, etc. etc. All this because a small crappy piece of wood fell down 9 years after being put up.
 
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Oh, what commitment... Thank you all for taking the time.

The house company has actually offered to patch up the board, but I thought it sounded like unnecessary work, so if we don't get new trims, maybe we'll tack it ourselves.

The aesthetic is one aspect, I didn't really consider that our solution could be "nicer," if that's the case...

We'll see how we proceed.
 
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M missk79 said:
Hello!
We have lived in our house for about nine years. So it's clear that not everything is entirely "new" anymore. But one day when I walked in through the front door, the wooden door frame fell straight down on me. Luckily, I still had my bike helmet on. However, the board hit my hand, and I got a bruise there.

The trim was glued, I don’t know how long one can expect the glue to last, but it is quite spooky that it can come loose and the board falls down...

Then we started looking at the actual construction, and saw that the horizontal trim board is clamped between the vertical boards. If it had been on top of the vertical ones instead, it would have been held in place and could not fall down. Wouldn't that have been a better construction? Does anyone know if there's a construction standard for this sort of thing? The trim boards came pre-cut from the house company, so it wasn't the carpenters' fault.

I'm discussing this with the house company, and they have sent a construction drawing showing they've done it right, but I want to argue that if so, then the drawing is wrong.

Does anyone know if there's a construction standard for this kind of thing? For someone like me, who is not in the industry but works at a desk, it's still clear as day that the boards should be installed so they don't risk falling on someone's head when entering through the front door. That is, the horizontal board on top of the vertical ones.

Sure, we could screw the board ourselves so that it is properly secured... but now it's become a bit of a matter of principle for me... so what do you say, what's the best way to install a trim?
J JBa said:
Then the end grain would show on the top trim.
It certainly would, but it's a few mm that can easily be touched up with a little touch-up paint. With a grooved frame and rabbeted trims (recommended), you place the top trim between the sides though. Even if the person who did the work fastened the sides to the top trim with wedges, shrinkage in the wood combined with vibrations from a frequently used front door will lead to this eventually if you don’t use a few finishing nails from the outside side trim and/or use inadequate adhesive.
 
M missk79 said:
Hi!
We've lived in our house for about nine years. So it's clear that not everything is "new" anymore. But one day when I walked in through the front door, the wooden door trim unexpectedly fell on me. Luckily, I still had my bike helmet on my head. However, the board hit my hand, and I got a bruise there.

The trim was glued, I don't know how long you can expect the glue to hold, but it's pretty scary that it can come loose so the board falls...

Then we started looking at the construction itself, and saw that the horizontal trim board is clamped between the vertical boards. If it had been placed on top of the vertical ones, it would have been held in place and wouldn't have been able to fall down. Wouldn't that have been a better construction? Does anyone know if there's a building standard for this kind of thing? The trim boards came pre-cut from the house company, so it wasn't the carpenters that made the mistake.

I'm discussing this with the house company, and they've sent a construction drawing showing they've done it correctly, but I want to say that if that's the case, the drawing is wrong.

Does anyone know if there's a building standard for something like this? For me, not being in the industry and working at a desk, it's still obvious that you should mount the boards so they don't risk falling on your head when you walk through the front door. That is, the horizontal on top of the vertical.

Of course, we could screw the board ourselves so that it sits properly... but now it's become a bit of a principle for me... so what do you say, how do you mount trim in the best way?
An experienced and meticulous carpenter does exactly as you suggest, preferably complemented with nails and in that case a "finish paint".
Additionally, it's good with grooves in the door frame and window frame, providing a tight connection to the trim and a stronger construction. It costs a bit, but is well worth the money.
 
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M missk79 said:
Wow, what commitment... Thanks everyone for taking the time.

The house company has actually offered to remove the board, but I thought it sounded like unnecessary work, so if we don't get any new trims, maybe we'll nail it ourselves.

The aesthetics are an aspect, didn't really think that our solution could be "nicer," if that's the case...

We'll see what we do.
So you mean you/you haven't let this go yet and you're considering whether to let the construction company redo it or do it yourselves? My goodness, it's 10 minutes of work including getting out what you need to do the job.
 
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Sernando and 2 others
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Rejäl said:
I disagree with the above, you install the lintel first and then the sides; this is just common sense, and it ensures that the OP's problem never arises.
Hello
I would probably interpret "lintel installed first" as some sort of standard when I look around at home. I have three doors, where two have the lintel installed first, but one has it installed last (the front door and the accompanying glass section). No idea why they've done it differently since the houses (BRF with small houses) were built at the same time and by the same company. All windows also have the lintel installed first. In any case, all parts are nailed, so they won't fall anyway!
 
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The best way is to use the right adhesive from the start, and for this purpose, it should be an elastic type like Casco SuperFix+. I have seen adhesives that "harden" used in concealed installations, where all the trims had fallen down, and the marble window sills were loose the next day as the adhesive had completely hardened and almost cracked.

Since the frame is not grooved, the easiest way is, provided the trim is not damaged from the fall, to use SuperFix and glue it back up again, with 6-8 blobs next to the old ones. Feel free to use a couple of narrow brads at the top from the sides if there's room (use a countersink) and be careful...you can also pre-drill slightly in the side trim until just before the overhead trim to ensure the brads end up where they should without cracking anything.

Good luck.
 
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