OK read it as if you didn't think there was anything in Hus AMA about the execution of the trim. But I obviously misunderstood you, my bad!J jonaserik said:
If there are prevailing smygar, the end of the wood will be visible if the handrail is mounted on top of the side smygar.
And if you don't crash, you don't need either seat belts or airbags.J jonaserik said:
Maybe because it happens too fast, too often.
Over these nine years, you've probably bumped into it or someone has pulled on it, so eventually, the glue gave way and came off. Maintenance of interior fittings should obviously be done, but to contact the builder nine years later because a glued trim has come off. Come on! 🙈M missk79 said:
The top rail is mounted between the sides, everything else doesn't look very good. AMA does not cover this. However, one needs to ensure that the parts are secure; clips are probably the most convenient solution, complemented with a bit of brad nails.
Where it wasn't possible, the side pieces were nailed into the top piece before they were assembled, making the mounting completely hidden.
Where it wasn't possible, the side pieces were nailed into the top piece before they were assembled, making the mounting completely hidden.
I disagree with the above, you place the top rail first and then the sides, this is just common sense, and ensures that the issue TS is experiencing can never arise.
We have built a house with Hjältevadshus and they place the transom between the sidostycken. We've also visited friends with Smålandsvillan and Eksjöhus where it looked the same. But then it's nailed with dyckert and not "just" glued.
Yes, that is the best result you can achieve with pre-painted reveals, if you nail or screw it will be more noticeable..J JBa said:
It's only the material thickness that shows on the right and left, which the painter should soft seal against the wall and paint over..
Or you can just install it with the sides facing up, so you don't have to paint the reveal. I have installed a few thousand meters of reveal and have never encountered either a builder or a client who wishes for the top piece to be mounted first. If you just attach them properly, it's a non-issue. If you rely solely on the sides, there's a risk the reveal will start to sag instead; MDF is soft.Rejäl said:
The time when things were painted on-site passed many decades ago, for better or worse.
It doesn’t sag more because it's wedged with the sides, what were you thinking there?L Liljeros said:
Yes, in prefabricated houses it’s this way because everything needs to be so cheap and simple, but when building with timber with trim around the perimeter, you still use pine reveals which give a completely different result when painted on-site 😊L Liljeros said:
No, it doesn't make a difference, you simply have to fasten the lining properly. The most common today is routed groove in the frame or clips. The worst scenario is when there are partition walls with metal studs and then folded vapor barrier. Then you can't nail or glue, if you're lucky there's at least plywood in the wall so you can try to hit that.Rejäl said:
Yes, I apply that when building myself but out of old habit, I probably still put the lining between first then too. I prefer to set the linings at an angle of 5-6 degrees, I find it easier with the sides first.Rejäl said:
Which small houses are built with metal studs in external walls?L Liljeros said:
Saying that finishing nails can't penetrate the vapor barrier is going a bit too far...
I have built stick-built houses my entire career and always set the top piece first, regardless of whether it is unpainted or painted before installation..L Liljeros said:
