5,303 views ·
28 replies
5k views
28 replies
sliding door tips wanted *picture*
Building a wall between the bedrooms. The second bedroom has a standard 80 wardrobe, but the other is intended to have sliding doors.
The studs are now visible internally, considering installing renovation gypsum to get a smooth wall inside the wardrobe. - the problem is that there isn't much depth left to spare. It's 46cm between the front and back studs.
What kind of sliding doors should I look for that are not too expensive, cumbersome, or not tight enough?

You can see the chipboard on the left, but there will also be 13mm gypsum on top of this...
The studs are now visible internally, considering installing renovation gypsum to get a smooth wall inside the wardrobe. - the problem is that there isn't much depth left to spare. It's 46cm between the front and back studs.
What kind of sliding doors should I look for that are not too expensive, cumbersome, or not tight enough?

You can see the chipboard on the left, but there will also be 13mm gypsum on top of this...
Not worked with sliding doors myself, but will in the future when we renovate our wardrobe(?).
But have you seen this?
http://www.garderobspecialisten.com/gds/
But have you seen this?
http://www.garderobspecialisten.com/gds/
take an old indoor door, then there are tracks plus wheels and things to buy, for example, at Beijerbygg.... Loops for handles and the whole shebang... I will see if I can find a picture of what a workmate and I created a few years ago, it was on a renovation job we were on..
Hang on......
Don't be afraid of the thickness you see. It was an old plank outer wall that we had to build on...
It turned out absolutely fantastic when it was finished...
Hang on......
Don't be afraid of the thickness you see. It was an old plank outer wall that we had to build on...
It turned out absolutely fantastic when it was finished...
Are the sliding doors as an interior door or sliding doors for a wardrobe something Yrrol would have? 
However, I am interested in sliding doors as an interior door, so if you find more pictures I would be grateful!
However, I am interested in sliding doors as an interior door, so if you find more pictures I would be grateful!
"I am, however, interested in sliding doors as an interior door, so if you find more pictures, I would be grateful!"
No, unfortunately, I didn't have more pictures.
But you can use almost any form of interior door, as long as there is a good wooden frame around it...
We chose to use an old paneled door, had to trim it both at the top and bottom (equally) for it to fit, and as I wrote, there are track kits available for purchase. We attached the track to the top frame, and the wheels were attached to the door's wooden frame at the top... Then you have to adjust it so it runs smoothly.
The wall it is built into doesn’t need to be more than door thickness +10 mm clearance/each side and then the material you build the walls with... I believe we chose metal studs...
Then, once everything is adjusted and clear, you attach moldings to the front of the package, so that there is about 10 mm clearance/each side there too. Also, don't forget the small guide rail fixed to the floor that holds the door steady at the bottom...
We chose to plug the old chest lock hole on the edge of the door, as well as plug the handle and keyholes... Then we routed new recesses with room for the eyelet and "pull holes."
It turned out really solid and good...
No, unfortunately, I didn't have more pictures.
But you can use almost any form of interior door, as long as there is a good wooden frame around it...
We chose to use an old paneled door, had to trim it both at the top and bottom (equally) for it to fit, and as I wrote, there are track kits available for purchase. We attached the track to the top frame, and the wheels were attached to the door's wooden frame at the top... Then you have to adjust it so it runs smoothly.
The wall it is built into doesn’t need to be more than door thickness +10 mm clearance/each side and then the material you build the walls with... I believe we chose metal studs...
Then, once everything is adjusted and clear, you attach moldings to the front of the package, so that there is about 10 mm clearance/each side there too. Also, don't forget the small guide rail fixed to the floor that holds the door steady at the bottom...
We chose to plug the old chest lock hole on the edge of the door, as well as plug the handle and keyholes... Then we routed new recesses with room for the eyelet and "pull holes."
It turned out really solid and good...
For a wardrobe, I think it's easier if the doors have wheels at the bottom. A track becomes visible on the floor when the doors are open. I don't like routing guide grooves in doors that are less than 4cm thick.
For an interior door, I use the type of track where the door hangs in the track and is guided by a pin at the bottom.
Milkshaken: Nice built-in door
For an interior door, I use the type of track where the door hangs in the track and is guided by a pin at the bottom.
Milkshaken: Nice built-in door
But there are different models of habo... and I need to figure out which one will be the most discreet.
-I assume the solution will be more airtight if there is a track and wheels at the bottom?
How should I think mathematically...
The opening is about 213 cm wide...
"Recommended door width, between 63-120 cm"
Do you want many or few doors? 2 doors would be the easiest, but is it the most aesthetically pleasing? 3 might be more logical in some way?
etc... you get the decision anxiety I'm dealing with.. hehe
My local store charges "k-50 2m 1751kr" before my discount. Wonder what they are otherwise.
-I assume the solution will be more airtight if there is a track and wheels at the bottom?
How should I think mathematically...
The opening is about 213 cm wide...
I want the appearance to be discreet, easy to open and rummage... does it matter which one I choose..
"Recommended door width, between 63-120 cm"
Do you want many or few doors? 2 doors would be the easiest, but is it the most aesthetically pleasing? 3 might be more logical in some way?
etc... you get the decision anxiety I'm dealing with.. hehe
My local store charges "k-50 2m 1751kr" before my discount. Wonder what they are otherwise.
If it is a track with 2 rails, 2 doors are preferable as you get almost 50% open.
With three doors, you get almost 1/3 open.
In our bedroom, which is 3m wide, we only have two doors. I open my half when I need clothes...
With three doors, you get almost 1/3 open.
In our bedroom, which is 3m wide, we only have two doors. I open my half when I need clothes...
That's how we did it, yes......Tiger79 said:
Works perfectly....
I understand if you don't want to rout the bottom for a homemade construction, but on an existing door, you usually have a good frame in GOOD timber..... just rout away....
I know that Sweedor also has ready-made sliding doors, installed a few of these on another project.... It was then I got inspiration for the one with the old door I've shown earlier.... It's easier than you think, as long as you think sliding door..
Don't forget to put a stop at the back as well, a stop that doesn't make a noise or bounce the door back out at high speed again.....