If you go to a professional shop (real staff, not snotty teenagers), they will bring out a bag of pre-mixed plaster mortar, with the "correct" mix of lime and cement, a "kc-mortar."
I find it hard to imagine that you should mix hydrated lime into a b-mortar, as it would change the proportion of binders and it would hardly be a b-mortar anymore.
I find it hard to imagine that you should mix hydrated lime into a b-mortar, as it would change the proportion of binders and it would hardly be a b-mortar anymore.
On www.finja.se I read that KC-bruket should be used on surfaces already plastered with KC-bruket. But I have no idea about that. How important is it, I wonder?
Slaked lime is more accurately called burnt limefremag said:
. You burn limestone to get burnt lime, and then the burnt lime is slaked with water, which is why it's called slaked lime I don't know if it can blast rocks, but it gets hot when you slake burnt lime.
gaia
Unfortunately, it seems that those who know about bruk have taken a vacation.
It's tricky with bruk. There are KC-bruk that don't have KC first in the name, like maxit sepro 135, which is a C-bruk. It should be primed with a stronger bruk.
Unfortunately, maxit's website is not very functional, but if you search for masonry mortar or something else, you will find products that do not appear in the direct links.
The släkt lime is just like the cement (normally Portland cement) a binder, and the proportion of the binder determines the strength of the bruk.
When to use cement versus lime is a mystery to me, and there are probably hundreds of different products, but ask a professional. I got a long lecture on mixing ratios, etc., when I was going to repair a chimney.
Personally, I would choose maxit's products because I perceive them as better, but I can't prove it. It's just a feeling.
It's tricky with bruk. There are KC-bruk that don't have KC first in the name, like maxit sepro 135, which is a C-bruk. It should be primed with a stronger bruk.
Unfortunately, maxit's website is not very functional, but if you search for masonry mortar or something else, you will find products that do not appear in the direct links.
The släkt lime is just like the cement (normally Portland cement) a binder, and the proportion of the binder determines the strength of the bruk.
When to use cement versus lime is a mystery to me, and there are probably hundreds of different products, but ask a professional. I got a long lecture on mixing ratios, etc., when I was going to repair a chimney.
Personally, I would choose maxit's products because I perceive them as better, but I can't prove it. It's just a feeling.
Lime mortar is what you're probably thinking of doing. Slaked lime is a part of lime mortar, which can also be bought ready-made, but then you're paying a high price for sand, much like buying premixed dry concrete, where you get Portland but mostly sand for a bit more money.
You can mix the lime mortar yourself with slaked lime and sand. Try what's suitable for your application; as a rule of thumb, it's usually 20 percent lime by volume and the rest fine sand. Sometimes, a little limestone is added as well.
Exactly how you should do it in your case, an (older) mason can surely advise.
Lime mortar is usually used on older masonry that already has lime mortar.
You can mix the lime mortar yourself with slaked lime and sand. Try what's suitable for your application; as a rule of thumb, it's usually 20 percent lime by volume and the rest fine sand. Sometimes, a little limestone is added as well.
Exactly how you should do it in your case, an (older) mason can surely advise.
Lime mortar is usually used on older masonry that already has lime mortar.
OK, the picture is getting clearer but...
...the chimney should ideally be cleaned.
I can handle sweeping but how do you clean all the gunk and goo that might prevent the sealant from sticking well - unless you're small enough to crawl down the chimney? Does anyone have Santa's phone number?
:
...the chimney should ideally be cleaned.
I can handle sweeping but how do you clean all the gunk and goo that might prevent the sealant from sticking well - unless you're small enough to crawl down the chimney? Does anyone have Santa's phone number?
:
Now it's starting to become a bit clearer.
What you mean is that you are going to mix a b-mortar based on slaked lime?
You can mix with pure cement or a mix of cement and lime.
To complicate it even further, there is hydraulic and non-hydraulic lime.
For small amounts, the easiest approach is to buy ready-made mortar, but if you're doing a lot you'll mix it yourself. Either way, you need a proper guide/recipe.
I thought you were going to coat the outside of the chimney.
Now it’s inside, and coating is not approved as a repair method, I've heard.
If you want it to be type-approved, it should be a type-approved (expensive) ceramic compound.
What you mean is that you are going to mix a b-mortar based on slaked lime?
You can mix with pure cement or a mix of cement and lime.
To complicate it even further, there is hydraulic and non-hydraulic lime.
For small amounts, the easiest approach is to buy ready-made mortar, but if you're doing a lot you'll mix it yourself. Either way, you need a proper guide/recipe.
I thought you were going to coat the outside of the chimney.
Now it’s inside, and coating is not approved as a repair method, I've heard.
If you want it to be type-approved, it should be a type-approved (expensive) ceramic compound.
But my chimney sweep says it's fine to plaster the chimney. The main thing is that it's sealed between the channels when he then pressure tests it...
Who says it's no longer OK to plaster the chimney internally for it to be approved? Five years ago, our chimney was plastered by gentlemen with nimble fingers. The chimney was approved. The one I am now going to plaster is at our country house and was built in the 1930s.
If a chimney sweep approves the chimney for firing, it's not my problem how it's done, right? Surely he sees that or will find out?
And how do I clean it so the mortar adheres?
Who says it's no longer OK to plaster the chimney internally for it to be approved? Five years ago, our chimney was plastered by gentlemen with nimble fingers. The chimney was approved. The one I am now going to plaster is at our country house and was built in the 1930s.
If a chimney sweep approves the chimney for firing, it's not my problem how it's done, right? Surely he sees that or will find out?
And how do I clean it so the mortar adheres?
The information about the requirement for type approval comes from some website, I don't remember which one.
Regarding chimney sweeps' requirements, they usually vary. Check with your insurance company as they are the ones who will complicate things if something happens.
I don't know who determines what regarding chimneys nowadays because the fire service law has changed.
The responsibilities are completely different now. The property owner is responsible for fire protection.
Regarding chimney sweeps' requirements, they usually vary. Check with your insurance company as they are the ones who will complicate things if something happens.
I don't know who determines what regarding chimneys nowadays because the fire service law has changed.
The responsibilities are completely different now. The property owner is responsible for fire protection.