Floor chipboard should be glued to avoid "squeaking." Screws should be at least 50 mm, electro-galvanized, and partially threaded - meaning the screw shank nearest to the head should be unthreaded, at least equal to the thickness of the material being fastened. Maximum 200 mm between screws. This results in an approximate usage of about 18 screws/sqm.
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Use vinterlim.
Why vinterlim? I have a bottle of Bostik wood glue outside, http://www.bostik.se/BostikTDS/SE/P0139_SE_TDS.pdf. What about that? I'll be executed if I come home with more bottles...Johan Gunverth said:
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If you have regular wood glue, it will work naturally. However, winter glue is stronger, so if your bottle runs out (a LOT of glue is needed), you should buy one of those instead. In my house, I have used 40 liters of glue so far. Maybe half of it for the chipboard floors (200m2).Marcus J said:Why winter glue? I have a bottle of Bostik wood glue outside, [link]. What about that? I'll be executed if I come home with more bottles...
I don't quite remember, but I think I used 3-5 bottles of glue for the bathroom floor of 12 square meters. A lot of glue is needed just for the tongue and groove of the chipboard.
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· Göteborg
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You glue the tongue AND the joist. Two strands on the board attached to the floor and two strands on the one to be installed. On the joist, you can apply a thick strand approximately in the middle of the joist. This latter one is important to avoid creaking.injonil said:You glue the tongue, there are two strands. As I recall
http://kampanj.byggelit.se/monteringsanvisning6.html
In part of our house, there was a parquet floor, solid block parquet laid on a floating chipboard floor, under which was 80 mm of polystyrene on a lightweight concrete slab over the basement. This part of the house was built around 1976.
Already when we bought the house, we saw that the parquet had separated, there were cracks straight across the room. Now during the renovation (we have added another floor on that part of the house), we tore up the floor. The chipboards had separated and had gaps of almost 10 mm in some places.
The explanation we received for the problem is that it is wrong to lay block parquet on chipboard. Each block is nailed to the floor, and chipboard does not hold nails well enough. Probably there was too little glue in the chipboard tongue and groove, causing them to separate. There is also a theory that it is due to the house, which was part of a bankruptcy estate in the 80s, standing empty and unheated for about 2 years. The previous owner bought it at an executive auction.
In one of the rooms with this floor, we are now going to lay the block parquet back (looking for a good floor layer), and we have been advised to lay chipboard with plywood on top, as nails hold better in plywood.
Already when we bought the house, we saw that the parquet had separated, there were cracks straight across the room. Now during the renovation (we have added another floor on that part of the house), we tore up the floor. The chipboards had separated and had gaps of almost 10 mm in some places.
The explanation we received for the problem is that it is wrong to lay block parquet on chipboard. Each block is nailed to the floor, and chipboard does not hold nails well enough. Probably there was too little glue in the chipboard tongue and groove, causing them to separate. There is also a theory that it is due to the house, which was part of a bankruptcy estate in the 80s, standing empty and unheated for about 2 years. The previous owner bought it at an executive auction.
In one of the rooms with this floor, we are now going to lay the block parquet back (looking for a good floor layer), and we have been advised to lay chipboard with plywood on top, as nails hold better in plywood.
What do you think about Spånplattelim. It seems optimal both for strength, impact sound, and it's also cheap. http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bygg/Kemikalier/Lim/Spanplattelim-2000030568/