I need to do this with a cornice/moulding (which is made of Styrofoam) and the best option for me seems to be a miter box. But the ones I see online can only cut either 45 degrees or with a 45-degree tilt on the saw blade – not both simultaneously (see picture). Or am I wrong? An alternative would be to buy a saw blade for porous materials and use the miter saw I have. It can cut at both angles simultaneously. But with a blade at high speed, perhaps it's not possible to get a smooth finish on a material as sensitive as Styrofoam? What should I do?
 
  • Yellow miter box with angled slots for precise cutting, used to cut molding and trim at 45-degree angles.
Saw a block at 45 degrees and place it in the box so that the strip lies at 45 degrees in the box. You will, of course, encounter some hassle with mounting the miter box with the inclination, but you will solve the problem relatively easily.
 
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Nyteknik
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Mikael_L
If you place the molding in the right direction, a simple 45° miter will suffice.
 
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Finndjävel and 2 others
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Nyteknik Nyteknik said:
One alternative would be to buy a saw blade for porous materials and use the miter saw I have. It can cut at both angles simultaneously.
I don't see any issues with doing this in the miter saw.
Just take it easy with the feed.

And I don't think any special blade should be necessary.
But try it on some scrap pieces first :)
 
Or take a miter box like the one you posted a picture of and put in your miter saw. Then cut an extra slot at the angle you want with the depth set with a set screw, and you'll have the miter box you need!
 
However, as KnockOnWood writes, I would probably test first in the miter saw. Often it turns out when you're up and running that the angle should be 44 degrees or 47 or... Then it's definitely nice to be able to vary the angle a bit more.
 
Are the planes aligned on the two surfaces that are against the miter box?
 
Tomtom79 Tomtom79 said:
The board is flat on the two surfaces that meet the miter box?
Ah, of course! Now I'm with you too. Thank you!
 
Magnus E K
I really messed up when I was sawing those for my previous apartment. It resulted in large holes in the inside corners. But they were white styrofoam moldings so it was possible to fix it somewhat with latex sealant. I never thought about it afterwards and received no comments about it during the sale.
 
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Karlsson52
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Magnus E K Magnus E K said:
I really messed up when I sawed those for my previous apartment. There were large holes in the inside corners. But they were white polystyrene moldings, so it could be fixed somewhat with latex caulk. I never thought about it afterward and received no comments about it during the sale.
Ha ha! :-) What did you do wrong that caused the large holes, I mean? (so that I don't do the same)
 
Magnus E K
They were bowl-shaped and I placed them with the back side down instead of "standing". Hard to explain and I don't remember exactly (it was 2010).
 
I have cut a lot of foam plastic with a circular saw. It's not a problem at all. Just keep in mind that you shouldn't cut 45 tilt and 45 rotation in the miter saw. It will go wrong. Moldings are generally quite costly, and it's trickier than you think to get the angles right. There is a lot written about it on the forum. If you are going to cut the molding lying flat on the plate, i.e., lying with the back against the saw's table, for a 90-degree corner, the tilt should be 30 degrees and the rotation 35.3 degrees. Then you have to keep track of what's up and down and which is the save and discard side of the blade. People (most of them) get frustrated the first few times they install crown moldings. I have written some quick guides about it in the forum. They should be searchable. Many others have also explained the methodology. Search and read before you start cutting into the expensive material.
 
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Nyteknik
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kulle
A good help when you later put them up is to measure and make some marks at the bottom where it should end up, because it is very easy to twist the moldings slightly up or down.
Crown molding installation with a red measurement line showing proper alignment against a wall and ceiling to avoid twisting.
 
mattiasp mattiasp said:
...for a 90-degree corner, the angle would be 30 degrees and the twist 35.3 degrees.
I realize now that if you cut a 45-degree angle with a 45-degree tilt, you get a picture frame. Which is what you see in the image. But 30 degrees, not to mention 35.3 degrees, is not something you cut with a miter box...
 
  • Person assembling a picture frame corner with ornate molding, beside a miter box and saw on a wooden table.
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