Save existing wall or re-drywall?

[naikon]

Hello
I hope you can help me a bit with my dilemma.
I've started renovating the hallway, which consists of a long corridor with several doorways.

I began by removing the existing wallpaper as best as I could, as it was poorly wallpapered in several places. Unfortunately, the steamer was not very effective on this wall, as it mostly resulted in damaging the paper on the drywall behind it. See pictures.

Now I'm left with uneven walls with different layers of wallpaper removed. On a small section (the first pictures) the paper is most damaged.

As I see it, I have two options:

- Paint to seal and then roll on skim coat
- Tear down all the drywall and re-drywall the entire room

I've mostly leaned towards the first option since re-drywalling feels like a big job with all the openings and angles. Additionally, with a ceiling height of 2.55, I'm not sure if using a 250 sheet and leaving a small gap at the top and bottom is possible?

What would you do? What do you think is most efficient in terms of time/work?

 

[naikon]

Perhaps using blocking paint + renovation wallpaper is an alternative instead of full spackling? I don't know how deep the holes can be covered by such wallpaper without forming indentations.

 

[Et1975]

Can't you screw the plasterboard while lying down?

 

[Düsseldorff]

Replaster the crap, it's much easier. But you can't leave a "gap" here and there. You have to cut the boards in a well-calculated place to get two per "strip" without mini pieces.

By the way, that checkered wallpaper was among the worst I've seen.

 

[naikon]

Can't you screw the gypsum boards horizontally?

Even if I buy 1200mm wide gypsum and lay it down, it will still only be 2400, and then I would still need one last 15cm? Or am I thinking wrong

Re-board the whole thing, it's much simpler. But you can't leave a "gap" here and there. You need to cut the boards in well-calculated places so you get two per "section" without small bits.

By the way, that checkered wallpaper is one of the worst I've ever seen.

Yes, I'm probably leaning towards doing that. Maybe it's not so bad after all. I'll buy Ergolite so it's easier to handle myself.
But I don't know what gap and section you are referring to.
Going to paint so no wallpaper is needed

It is about 255 in height, and it would have been really easy to use a 250cm board. If you can save on 2.5cm on the ceiling moldings and baseboards.

 

[Düsseldorff]

Even if I buy 1200mm wide drywall and lay it horizontally, it still only reaches 2400, and I'd still need an additional 15cm? Or am I thinking wrong?

Yes, I am leaning towards doing that. Maybe it's not so bad after all. Buy Ergolite so it's easier to handle by myself.
But I don't know what gaps and seams you're referring to.
I'm planning to paint, so no wallpaper is needed.

The height is about 255, and it would have been incredibly easy to use a 250cm board if you can save on 2.5cm on the ceiling molding and baseboard.

Yes, you are thinking wrong. Cut the boards to get larger pieces to put up.

 

[Et1975]

Yes, you are thinking wrong. Cut the boards so that you get larger pieces to put up.

Use 3x900 boards

Even if I buy 1200mm wide drywall and lay it downwards, it will still only be 2400 and then I would still need an extra 15cm? Or am I thinking wrong

Yes, I'm leaning towards doing it. Maybe it's not that bad after all. Buy Ergolite so it's easier to handle myself.
But I don't know which gaps and overlaps you are referring to.
It will be painted so no wallpaper is needed

So it's about 255 in height and it would have been great to use a 250cm board. If you can cut back on 2.5cm on the ceiling and floor trim.

Use 3x900 boards. That gives you 150mm waste. Is that really something to fuss over?

 

[Kalle B]

It might be difficult to remove the moldings without damaging them. This could turn into a job that just keeps growing and growing.

 

[Düsseldorff]

It can be difficult to remove the moldings without them getting damaged. This could turn into a job that just grows and grows

Eh, it's just regular crown molding, just put new ones if needed.

 

[Frerider]

Ah, it's just regular cove molding, just replace it as needed.

Where do you see cove molding?

 

[Düsseldorff]

Where do you see the coving?

You're right, I looked carelessly.

 

[naikon]

Yes, you're thinking wrong. Cut the boards so that you get larger pieces to put up.

Put up 3x900 boards

Put up 3x900 boards. You'll have 150mm waste. That's nothing to fuss over, right?

Ah, didn't think about 3x900. I'm not very experienced with drywall. That's why I'm trying to do as little cutting and filling as possible. They aren't beveled at the top, are they? So if you lay several downward next to each other, you have to bevel a groove yourself for the joint compound?

That's why it would be so convenient to go with 2500 in height. Then there's no cutting, and you can use the existing bevels. You can press in a 5cm gypsum length as padding at the bottom behind the baseboard which doesn't need to be filled.

Or do I have the wrong mindset?

 

[naikon]

It might be difficult to remove the trim without it getting damaged. This could become a job that just grows and grows.

Yes, but it's already quite a big job, at least for me 😄 I'll try to take down all the trim as carefully as I can, and hopefully I can reuse some.

 

[naikon]

Has torn down the lining and ceiling moldings. Tried measuring the plasterboard and it seems to be about 10mm. Will there be problems installing new 13mm? Thinking about the door frames and lining.

 

[Düsseldorff]

Have removed casing and ceiling moldings. Tried measuring the drywall and it's about 10mm. Will it be a problem to install new 13mm? Thinking about door frames and casing

Hmm. Are you sure you're measuring correctly? I first thought it might be renovation drywall, but that is only 6 mm.

You're not accidentally measuring a beveled edge, are you?