Hello,
I am now going to start plasterboarding my attic walls and need to make holes in the gypsum boards for the electrical outlets.
1) Is there a simple tool that can be attached to the drill that is the right dimension for the outlet, like a hole saw/cutter?
2) Do you have any tips on how I can easily measure where to make the hole in the plasterboard? I've heard that you can place a cover in the electrical box with a nail in the middle. Is that correct? Where can one buy it? Or you probably have better tips.
Best regards,
TW
I am now going to start plasterboarding my attic walls and need to make holes in the gypsum boards for the electrical outlets.
1) Is there a simple tool that can be attached to the drill that is the right dimension for the outlet, like a hole saw/cutter?
2) Do you have any tips on how I can easily measure where to make the hole in the plasterboard? I've heard that you can place a cover in the electrical box with a nail in the middle. Is that correct? Where can one buy it? Or you probably have better tips.
Best regards,
TW
As mentioned, a hole saw, but note that there are different dimensions for boxes, so measure which ones you have and buy corresponding cutters. At my place, the junction boxes are one dimension and those for switches and outlets another.twtwtw said:
Hole-in-one and similar are said to work well but are not completely free. (In extreme cases, i.e., a kitchen, you might need four or five for one board). I've also heard that you can occasionally drill through them. So I made my own contraption consisting of a piece of hardboard (two glued layers), a screw in the middle with the tip outward, and two drilled holes so that I can attach it to the box with the screws that will hold the insert.twtwtw said:
I made a couple for each box dimension (they have different distances between the mounting screws). They are attached to the boxes and then the board is pressed in place, so the tip of the screw makes a mark for the center drill of the hole saw. However, it's important not to tilt the board when pressing it, otherwise, the mark will be at the wrong height.
In some cases, I just measure the position (horizontally and vertically) of the box's center with the carpenter's rule... that works too.
I usually use an even simpler method, I drive a nail in the middle of the box (just avoid all the cables) and let the head of the nail stick out, then I borrow a lipstick from my partner (or ask nicely) and apply it on the head. I position the drywall on the floor in the correct place and press it slightly against the nail, and you have a marking where you should place the socket cutter.
Edit: Then you pull out the nail, but that might have been implied.
Edit: Then you pull out the nail, but that might have been implied.
Haven't gotten around to buying any fancy tools, so I measure. Usually not a problem if there are only one or two boxes in the board.
The downside is that you have to think a little, and sometimes that fails...
The downside is that you have to think a little, and sometimes that fails...
When using Hole in one to drill in OSB, you often end up drilling through the aluminum ring in the centering magnet you insert into the boxes due to the hardness of the board (guides the drill more than drywall). A trick I used was to only mark-drill with the hole saw's center drill and remove the magnetic finder, tilt the board slightly, and drill through. I used T-80 on OSB to be able to adjust the OSB board and T-70 on the drywall.
One problem I have experienced with the magnets is that the outer magnet tends to move when you are trying to position the hole saw with its center bit. If you have a steadier hand than I do, this might not be an issue. Otherwise, it works well to mark with a felt-tip pen through the center hole of the outer marker, remove the magnet, and then proceed as usual.
Yes, that's usually the case..Lymmeln said:
Perfect to do as you do, both when it comes to T80 in OSB and angling out the board..
We also use "supersökare" http://www.norgips.se/index0,615.htm to avoid the magnet finder altogether when it comes to OSB - since it otherwise wears out the inserts severely.
There were stamps! Super good, then I don't have to make my own, the laser is probably okay but if you want to speed up the setting of discs, it's probably difficult. Individual holes for, e.g., pipes or so are probably good for the laser.
I have blue ones like that and they work terribly, I don't have a single box that they fit well in, they just come loose and get half stuck in the plasterboards.zephir said:
I usually:
1) Unscrew the screws in the box a little bit, if you tap on the plasterboard, they make an impression and then it's easy to see where to drill.
2) Apply a little wood glue or equivalent on the edge of the box, it also makes an impression. However, it can get a bit sticky if you don't press the board in place right away.
3) Measure.
1) Unscrew the screws in the box a little bit, if you tap on the plasterboard, they make an impression and then it's easy to see where to drill.
2) Apply a little wood glue or equivalent on the edge of the box, it also makes an impression. However, it can get a bit sticky if you don't press the board in place right away.
3) Measure.
hole in one !!
if you're using OSB first, use an 80 router for a 70 socket.
90 router for 80 junction box.
this way you won't break anything.
everything else with lipstick, etc. you can do, but hello??
you should work simply and easily.
it becomes more fun and gives a nicer result!
regards
snickar estwing
if you're using OSB first, use an 80 router for a 70 socket.
90 router for 80 junction box.
this way you won't break anything.
everything else with lipstick, etc. you can do, but hello??
you should work simply and easily.
it becomes more fun and gives a nicer result!
regards
snickar estwing