This concerns a newly built garage, large model.
A thought I've had today is about the ventilation of the roof.
We are going to install eave panels and dress the eave, with some LED spotlights and such knick-knacks.. Anyway, can I use battens to attach some board and "continue with the outer wall" upwards, leaving an opening of 3-5 cm at the top before the tongue and groove panels, thereby creating the start of the ventilation?
I guess I'll have to continue a bit further upwards along the inner ceiling, but at least the start of the ventilation..
Larger image: http://i.imgur.com/lmsgI9j.jpg
Best regards, Jonas
A thought I've had today is about the ventilation of the roof.
We are going to install eave panels and dress the eave, with some LED spotlights and such knick-knacks.. Anyway, can I use battens to attach some board and "continue with the outer wall" upwards, leaving an opening of 3-5 cm at the top before the tongue and groove panels, thereby creating the start of the ventilation?
I guess I'll have to continue a bit further upwards along the inner ceiling, but at least the start of the ventilation..
Larger image: http://i.imgur.com/lmsgI9j.jpg
Best regards, Jonas
It depends a bit on what you're after. If you're looking for something that resists insulation, you should continue with the wind barrier behind the panel so it doesn't blow through, as the panel isn't completely airtight. Which system will you use as an air gap? Just fabric, "masonite," or cardboard, etc.? In my opinion, the best is to screw a 45x45 on the side of the rafter up against the roof sheathing and a 45x45 on cc 600, then screw masonite under that. Also, place a cover of masonite where your image shows and tape the seam with t-wind tape or the like.
If, for example, you will have 195 insulation in the floor joist, you might only pull the masonite up 400mm; if you're insulating the roof, it may go all the way up to the ridge and must then also be ventilated either through gable vents, a ventilated ridge, or mold stopper.
Back to the eave... it's preferable to install the soffit panel before the wall panel. Perforated sheet metal or insect netting at the edge against the fascia, about a 4 cm air gap, and then just build towards the wall.
If, for example, you will have 195 insulation in the floor joist, you might only pull the masonite up 400mm; if you're insulating the roof, it may go all the way up to the ridge and must then also be ventilated either through gable vents, a ventilated ridge, or mold stopper.
Back to the eave... it's preferable to install the soffit panel before the wall panel. Perforated sheet metal or insect netting at the edge against the fascia, about a 4 cm air gap, and then just build towards the wall.
Yes, that's what I thought.
Continue with masonite up until the glesen ends, continue with 45x45 studs on the inside of the rafters along the tongue and groove in the ceiling so it goes a bit above the insulation. Place wind barrier on the outside of the masonite and continue with it up to the gap at least. Mesh inside the foot panel and about 3-4 pieces of 1cm gaps on the foot panel.
Plan to have 2 gable vents at the ridge.
Should it work then?
Kind regards, Jonas
Continue with masonite up until the glesen ends, continue with 45x45 studs on the inside of the rafters along the tongue and groove in the ceiling so it goes a bit above the insulation. Place wind barrier on the outside of the masonite and continue with it up to the gap at least. Mesh inside the foot panel and about 3-4 pieces of 1cm gaps on the foot panel.
Plan to have 2 gable vents at the ridge.
Should it work then?
Kind regards, Jonas
Here's how it turned out with the glesen anyway.
Larger image: http://i.imgur.com/CfLvUgV.jpg
Best regards, Jonas
Larger image: http://i.imgur.com/CfLvUgV.jpg
Best regards, Jonas