Hey! We have a terrace (I just recently learned the difference between a balcony, deck, terrace, and veranda) on top of a standing seam metal roof that's probably from when the house was built in the 1920s. The wooden terrace simply sits on the seams with the help of large wooden wedges, which have of course rotted away.
I now want to replace the roof on the house, including this standing seam metal (and rotten sheathing, and maybe add some insulation, as it's completely uninsulated today), so the rotten old terrace must be demolished. However, I want to keep it, and I'm also considering building another one on the other side of the house under the same conditions. Are there any modern techniques for attaching a floor structure on top of a standing seam metal roof? Or are there other techniques for this? The roof won't be visible anyway, so for appearance's sake, it doesn't have to be standing seam metal—it could just as well be an alternative solution.
Trivia:
Veranda - on the ground.
Deck - elevated but supported by posts.
Balcony - elevated and hanging on the wall.
Terrace - on top of an outer roof.
I now want to replace the roof on the house, including this standing seam metal (and rotten sheathing, and maybe add some insulation, as it's completely uninsulated today), so the rotten old terrace must be demolished. However, I want to keep it, and I'm also considering building another one on the other side of the house under the same conditions. Are there any modern techniques for attaching a floor structure on top of a standing seam metal roof? Or are there other techniques for this? The roof won't be visible anyway, so for appearance's sake, it doesn't have to be standing seam metal—it could just as well be an alternative solution.
Trivia:
Veranda - on the ground.
Deck - elevated but supported by posts.
Balcony - elevated and hanging on the wall.
Terrace - on top of an outer roof.
Shouldn't it be possible to build a frame that you place on the sheet and level on a scale. On this, you attach the posts to the railing so it becomes stable and then screw this into the house. Then it should be stable, the frame itself weighs quite a bit so it probably won't move easily but if you screw it into the wall it definitely won't move 
That's how I've done it, or well, without a frame.Ola78 said:Wouldn't it be possible to build a frame that you place on the sheet and level with a spirit level? On this, you attach the posts for the railing so it becomes sturdy, and then screw it into the house. That should make it stable, as the frame itself weighs quite a bit, so it probably won't move easily, but if you screw it into the wall, it definitely won't move
Bevel-cut floor joists 45x95s (to get a flat floor relative to the roof slope).
Then put rubber pieces between the metal roof and the wooden joists (got a broken hose for a truck from the rubber workshop).
Then decking and railing on top of that.
I laid a material called resitrix (rubber membrane) on the flat roof, this cost maybe 300/m2 including labor. On this, I plan to lay beveled pressure-treated joists, nothing will be screwed into the base (shouldn't be necessary). Then a railing that is screwed into the decking and attached to the wall; it would take a lot for it to fall off.
As an alternative to the pressure-treated, I looked for plastic joists (like the material in cutting boards), but found nothing. I could fabricate them myself, but it would be too complicated. Pressure-treated is so good that it's probably not worth trying to find something else.
As an alternative to the pressure-treated, I looked for plastic joists (like the material in cutting boards), but found nothing. I could fabricate them myself, but it would be too complicated. Pressure-treated is so good that it's probably not worth trying to find something else.
I have no wall to attach it to, just an outer roof (think mansard/broken roof), but it should probably be possible to make mounts using some clever lindab bracket (they have like 20 different ones). I'm a bit hesitant to let the printed material sit directly on the metal (even with rubber in between), but of course, NTR-A should last a few decades at least.
Otherwise, maybe you could set up posts that go through the roof to attach the support beam to, which could then be covered with metal by a skilled sheet metal worker to make it tight, similar to around a chimney? But then again, the wood might absorb water into the construction anyway, of course.
Otherwise, maybe you could set up posts that go through the roof to attach the support beam to, which could then be covered with metal by a skilled sheet metal worker to make it tight, similar to around a chimney? But then again, the wood might absorb water into the construction anyway, of course.
I previously had poles going up through the band-covered roof, these have been removed for almost 2 years now and I don't regret it. If I remember correctly, there wasn't a tinsmith who didn't wrinkle their nose at that construction (which was made/ordered by the previous homeowner). The risk of leakage is high, according to my own experiences, it's difficult to seal between the metal and the wood which moves/dries/cracks.
A lot can be figured out and submitted for galvanizing. But I'm not quite sure what the problem actually is.
One way to attach something to seamed is to take a beam (e.g., 2"4") on each side of the seam and bolt them together. I did that when I had a frame on a lower roof, and it was secure.
One way to attach something to seamed is to take a beam (e.g., 2"4") on each side of the seam and bolt them together. I did that when I had a frame on a lower roof, and it was secure.
What I think is that there should be a more modern way to do it than placing it loosely on the sheet, or clamping it as you suggest. How long does it last then? What is lying/sitting there today is completely rotten, and I have no idea how long it has been there. I'm thinking of some form of stainless steel fittings to be attached to the seams, but maybe that's impossible.
In another thread, I found a suggestion that a welder should make a fully welded stainless steel roof, but I think that sounds excessively expensive...
In another thread, I found a suggestion that a welder should make a fully welded stainless steel roof, but I think that sounds excessively expensive...
The problem is that the wooden decking needs to be screwed into something. Hence my thoughts about plastic.
But in general, you can perhaps estimate a lifespan of 20-30 years for a decking.
If you have rotten wood, it has been in prolonged contact with water, and this can be due to many reasons, such as leaves and other debris accumulating under the decking.
If you want, you can lay tiles, gravel, etc., on resitrix.
Wood doesn't last forever, and building for easier replacement in the future might be the most sensible solution.
But in general, you can perhaps estimate a lifespan of 20-30 years for a decking.
If you have rotten wood, it has been in prolonged contact with water, and this can be due to many reasons, such as leaves and other debris accumulating under the decking.
If you want, you can lay tiles, gravel, etc., on resitrix.
Wood doesn't last forever, and building for easier replacement in the future might be the most sensible solution.
Just like FredrikR says, no posts through the sheet metal, you will definitely have problems in the future. And it will be quite expensive to have a sheet metal worker for that job. If you want it easy to clean under the decking, you can make it in panels that can be lifted off to clean underneath.
Fold brackets/clamps might work for you, but I think the construction will probably rest on the roof.cheetah1 said:
So it won't be supported by the fold brackets, but that probably wasn't what you meant either.
How steep is the roof that the construction will sit on?
Diversearbetare
· Göteborg
· 11 228 posts
I think the "most modern" way is to let the terrace float on top of the sheet metal. Wood moves, so it's best to accommodate this fact rather than force it in place. However, it would be good to have something underneath besides the sheet metal that the terrace can slide on.
We have a stainless steel fully welded roof (too little slope for seam metal) and will let the terrace slide on top and be attached to the wall.
...and no; a stainless welded roof is not outrageously expensive. Maybe twice as expensive as a double-seamed roof.
We have a stainless steel fully welded roof (too little slope for seam metal) and will let the terrace slide on top and be attached to the wall.
...and no; a stainless welded roof is not outrageously expensive. Maybe twice as expensive as a double-seamed roof.
Last edited:
Found this leveling system, seems to work outdoors as well.
http://www.nivellsystem.se/sv/regelsystemet/utegolv.html
Maybe a lot of money for something that cut skewed beams do just as well (or better), has anyone tested? The big advantage seems to be that you can level the whole framework really straight, which can be a bit tricky if, for example, the balcony ceiling is not 100% even.
http://www.nivellsystem.se/sv/regelsystemet/utegolv.html
Maybe a lot of money for something that cut skewed beams do just as well (or better), has anyone tested? The big advantage seems to be that you can level the whole framework really straight, which can be a bit tricky if, for example, the balcony ceiling is not 100% even.