I am going to pour a slab on the slab (part of a truck garage will become a large bathroom and laundry room) and have dug trenches and laid new drains. The old floor had a steep slope, so I leveled it with a thin layer of leca concrete and a 2-4 cm sand layer in some places. See http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/116687-gjuta-platta-pa-plattan.html
I leveled the base so that it varies about +- 1-2 cm in some places and then put 10 cm of s80 foam insulation on top of it. Any cavities around the drains, etc., I filled with foam sealant. Now that I am about to lay the top layer of foam insulation (10 cm s100), I am getting a bit anxious and wondering if the slightly uneven base might cause there to be "voids" under the slab, which will be 10-11 cm thick. What do you think, will the weight of the slab solve the "problem"?
I feel like I need several wise tips pronto, and that's why I started a new thread on the subject since most people don't have the energy to read through the other one
I leveled the base so that it varies about +- 1-2 cm in some places and then put 10 cm of s80 foam insulation on top of it. Any cavities around the drains, etc., I filled with foam sealant. Now that I am about to lay the top layer of foam insulation (10 cm s100), I am getting a bit anxious and wondering if the slightly uneven base might cause there to be "voids" under the slab, which will be 10-11 cm thick. What do you think, will the weight of the slab solve the "problem"?
I feel like I need several wise tips pronto, and that's why I started a new thread on the subject since most people don't have the energy to read through the other one
Member
· Västra Götalands Län
· 529 posts
You can reinforce, and then there are no problems.
Drill holes in the walls around and insert shorter pieces of rebar (20-30 cm). Then lay the bars in a grid, place everything on spacer blocks so that the reinforcement is in the middle of the slab. Tie in your short pieces from the walls.
If you are going to have underfloor heating, you can also tie the hose to the reinforcement before you cast.
Drill holes in the walls around and insert shorter pieces of rebar (20-30 cm). Then lay the bars in a grid, place everything on spacer blocks so that the reinforcement is in the middle of the slab. Tie in your short pieces from the walls.
If you are going to have underfloor heating, you can also tie the hose to the reinforcement before you cast.
don't think you'll have any "boom". nicely laid work
reinforcement in walls can be with one meter in between approximately.
reinforcement in walls can be with one meter in between approximately.
Thank you for the response. I will of course reinforce and embed the underfloor heating pipes, but I was thinking of casting the slab as a floating structure with edge insulation. Is it better to do as you suggest and join it with the basement walls?
No one knows? I was planning to apply the second layer and reinforce during the day.
Member
· Västra Götalands Län
· 529 posts
Edge elements are useful if you have multiple uninsulated floors in adjacent rooms. This is because otherwise, your underfloor heating will enhance the capillary force effect on these floors. That is, you will experience increased moisture migration upward through these floors when you run heating in the insulated room.
However, if the other floors are also insulated, there is no need for edge elements. In this case, you reinforce into the walls.
You can also choose to reinforce only into one wall if the conditions make it the best option, and then insulate against the other walls.
However, if the other floors are also insulated, there is no need for edge elements. In this case, you reinforce into the walls.
You can also choose to reinforce only into one wall if the conditions make it the best option, and then insulate against the other walls.
you don't need to cast against the wall with insulation. just cast tight against the wall.
be meticulous when you're casting, set heights on the walls all around.
also, keep in mind that it will be difficult to create slopes to drains. if that's the case, you can fix it with spackel.
be meticulous when you're casting, set heights on the walls all around.
also, keep in mind that it will be difficult to create slopes to drains. if that's the case, you can fix it with spackel.
I think I'll go with edge insulation all around. Thanks for all the help.