Hello,
We need to replace a door in the house that opens the wrong way. I've never changed entire doors myself before, so I feel quite uncertain about this job, even though I've renovated the entire kitchen myself.
What makes this a bit more complicated in this case is that the old frame is built into the walls as follows:
http://i.imgur.com/Dwt2I2p.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/IxzqFai.jpg
It looks like this in another place where I won't need a frame anymore. As you can see, the frame itself is embedded in the wall, likely installed before the wall panels were added.
http://i.imgur.com/YIMEVs2.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/FpmPS22.jpg
I don't want to install a smaller door than the one that is already there.
At the same time, I want to replace all doors in the house, but since the others don't need to be reversed, I hope to keep the frames? Can you buy doors that fit directly? Or do you need to change the hanging and similar things?
Above all, how do you replace the frame where it is a must?
We need to replace a door in the house that opens the wrong way. I've never changed entire doors myself before, so I feel quite uncertain about this job, even though I've renovated the entire kitchen myself.
What makes this a bit more complicated in this case is that the old frame is built into the walls as follows:
http://i.imgur.com/Dwt2I2p.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/IxzqFai.jpg
It looks like this in another place where I won't need a frame anymore. As you can see, the frame itself is embedded in the wall, likely installed before the wall panels were added.
http://i.imgur.com/YIMEVs2.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/FpmPS22.jpg
I don't want to install a smaller door than the one that is already there.
At the same time, I want to replace all doors in the house, but since the others don't need to be reversed, I hope to keep the frames? Can you buy doors that fit directly? Or do you need to change the hanging and similar things?
Above all, how do you replace the frame where it is a must?
Just take out the reciprocating saw and cut away a few cm of the wall, for example, flush with the studs.
Those doors are not directly built into the wall; in our cellar, the frames were mounted at the same time the walls were built up and before the top 2-3 cm were cast, as well as the ground floor where the door frames are part of the wall studs.
Those doors are not directly built into the wall; in our cellar, the frames were mounted at the same time the walls were built up and before the top 2-3 cm were cast, as well as the ground floor where the door frames are part of the wall studs.
Not easy to see how it's attached. But isn't it just the usual way, with the frame nailed in the studs all around? In that case, you should be able to locate the nails and cut them with a hacksaw blade or reciprocating saw. It's more complicated since it's already plastered, but it can be managed.
As plan B: take a circular saw with a rough blade and run it straight along the plaster edge from each side, so that the cuts meet in the middle. In the corners, you will need a handsaw.
As plan B: take a circular saw with a rough blade and run it straight along the plaster edge from each side, so that the cuts meet in the middle. In the corners, you will need a handsaw.
Difficult to explain, but the frame looks like a T where the base itself sticks into the wall. The base goes against the rule and is also screwed there. The base is then enclosed by wall panels (wood and plaster) and at the outermost point, the frame extends and becomes more or less as thick as the wall itself (with the wall panels) and that's where the door sits.
This means that the wall panels are attached to the base of the frame, i.e., the part that sticks into the wall. To remove the frame, I had to pull out these staples from one side, and on the other side, there were screws that I left in place. I used a crowbar to remove the frame. You couldn't take the frame out whole, of course; it had to be divided, first the bottom plate, after which you could fold in the side posts.
Removing the old frame isn't really a major problem; the difficult part will probably be installing a new frame that allows the same size door as before? I had hoped to avoid cutting into the wall; in this case, some of the panels are fastened quite far out, so I risk removing that. Sure, you can place new screws to hold it in place, but if it can be avoided, it is preferable.
This means that the wall panels are attached to the base of the frame, i.e., the part that sticks into the wall. To remove the frame, I had to pull out these staples from one side, and on the other side, there were screws that I left in place. I used a crowbar to remove the frame. You couldn't take the frame out whole, of course; it had to be divided, first the bottom plate, after which you could fold in the side posts.
Removing the old frame isn't really a major problem; the difficult part will probably be installing a new frame that allows the same size door as before? I had hoped to avoid cutting into the wall; in this case, some of the panels are fastened quite far out, so I risk removing that. Sure, you can place new screws to hold it in place, but if it can be avoided, it is preferable.
Member
· Västernorrland
· 12 037 posts
Normally, you set the wall panels so any frames can be uncovered. It's enough to have a normal opening in the frame for the adjustment allowance and then panels out to the edge of the frame, not over.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
In the old part of my house, the board (masonite) is nailed directly to the frame, so no trim is needed, a neat solution but if you need to replace the door, you have to cut along the stud and then install trim.
So, bring out the reciprocating saw and cut between the stud and the frame.
Protte
So, bring out the reciprocating saw and cut between the stud and the frame.
Protte
It seems like you have similar walls to those Protte and I have.
My walls upstairs are built with 1m segments where each segment is then joined with "lister" & narrow panel.
Just take out the saw and cut the wall just outside the frame.
Then you need to install new studs between the floor/ceiling and a piece between both vertical studs just above where the top of the frame will be located.
Unfortunately, you'll probably have to tear down some drywall and maybe even the original wall panels.
My walls upstairs are built with 1m segments where each segment is then joined with "lister" & narrow panel.
Just take out the saw and cut the wall just outside the frame.
Then you need to install new studs between the floor/ceiling and a piece between both vertical studs just above where the top of the frame will be located.
Unfortunately, you'll probably have to tear down some drywall and maybe even the original wall panels.
If the frame is to be replaced, you can be quite brusque. For example, it's much easier to remove the frame if you first cut it in a few places with a reciprocating saw or a similar machine. It can be done in a couple of minutes.
Regarding finding doors that fit the old frames. At regular hardware stores, you will only find doors with modern hinges that don't fit. If you check with carpentry factories that manufacture interior doors, you will find companies that deliver doors with traditional hinges. There is a somewhat rough standard for the measurements, that is, where they are located on the door; if yours hold standard measurements, it simplifies things, but there are companies that for a relatively small additional cost manufacture with the hinges in any desired placement.
Also, check that your doors have modern standard measurements. Nowadays, doors are made in even 10cm sizes. In the past, 5cm intervals were also standard, and that's referring to the door opening size, meaning the hole that the frame should fit into.
There are companies that manufacture even unusual standard sizes for a moderate additional cost.
Regarding finding doors that fit the old frames. At regular hardware stores, you will only find doors with modern hinges that don't fit. If you check with carpentry factories that manufacture interior doors, you will find companies that deliver doors with traditional hinges. There is a somewhat rough standard for the measurements, that is, where they are located on the door; if yours hold standard measurements, it simplifies things, but there are companies that for a relatively small additional cost manufacture with the hinges in any desired placement.
Also, check that your doors have modern standard measurements. Nowadays, doors are made in even 10cm sizes. In the past, 5cm intervals were also standard, and that's referring to the door opening size, meaning the hole that the frame should fit into.
There are companies that manufacture even unusual standard sizes for a moderate additional cost.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
It does say change
but I can interpret it as the door opening the wrong way and just needs to be reversed, so you have to be a bit careful.
Protte
but I can interpret it as the door opening the wrong way and just needs to be reversed, so you have to be a bit careful.
Protte
Had the handyman over, he concluded that it’s an 8x20 door that needs to go in there, and he will need to cut the walls a bit to fit the new frame.
The screws holding the plates in place can be moved but do not need to be spackled as they will end up under the moldings.
The job was estimated to take about 6 hours and would cost around 2500 SEK. For me, feeling unsure about this job, that sounds like an okay deal.
I will order the door myself and am also considering replacing the other doors (without frames). The problem is that the other doors have a different older mounting (not the new plastic one). The handyman mentioned something about transitions, but there is still a high risk that the hinges will need to be moved up and down a bit.
The screws holding the plates in place can be moved but do not need to be spackled as they will end up under the moldings.
The job was estimated to take about 6 hours and would cost around 2500 SEK. For me, feeling unsure about this job, that sounds like an okay deal.
I will order the door myself and am also considering replacing the other doors (without frames). The problem is that the other doors have a different older mounting (not the new plastic one). The handyman mentioned something about transitions, but there is still a high risk that the hinges will need to be moved up and down a bit.
Yes, it sounds like I have the same type of walls as Demmpa and Protte.
This is what it looks like inside the wall:
http://i.imgur.com/yv6lJqK.jpg
This is what it looks like inside the wall:
http://i.imgur.com/yv6lJqK.jpg
Renovator
· Näverkajakens födelseort
· 797 posts
Feels like the frame should be nailed from the inside?
If these 2500 are including materials, then I think it's cheap.
Another alternative would be to buy yourself a door and try, it seems quite natural.
Be careful with the craftsman that the frame should be secured with karmskruv, not everyone uses that for interior doors.
If these 2500 are including materials, then I think it's cheap.
Another alternative would be to buy yourself a door and try, it seems quite natural.
Be careful with the craftsman that the frame should be secured with karmskruv, not everyone uses that for interior doors.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
What is exceptionally good about frame screws?
Traditionally, 6 four-inch nails and shims would suffice.
I can modernize a bit and use 75 mm drywall screws and shims (the bedroom door has been in place like that for 15 years)
If you're going to use something more modern, frame sleeves might be better.
Frame screws are like "one shot" you only have one attempt, sort of like nailing...
Protte
Traditionally, 6 four-inch nails and shims would suffice.
I can modernize a bit and use 75 mm drywall screws and shims (the bedroom door has been in place like that for 15 years)
If you're going to use something more modern, frame sleeves might be better.
Frame screws are like "one shot" you only have one attempt, sort of like nailing...
Protte
Renovator
· Näverkajakens födelseort
· 797 posts
You should never have to adjust an interior door, but if you have solid doors, it becomes inevitable over time, and then the frame screw is invaluable. Yes, I agree frame sleeves work just as well. I don't think one should start from "what will hold." I helped my brother tear out an interior door in the garage; the previous owner had done it so it held well, really difficult to remove. It was nailed with ~7-8 5" nails on each frame side, then mortared in against the walls, and the lintel was cast into a concrete beam above. You can do as you wish, but I want to make it easy for the next person in line.prototypen said: