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Replace asfaboard bargeboard on house with brick facade
Hello forum!
I have bought a small one-story 100m2 house, built in '74, and it is weather-exposed, 4 km from the coast in northwest Skåne.
Crawl space, where I am currently replacing the asfaboard panels since they have a slight odor.
The first measure was to install a dehumidifier and cover the crawl space surface a bit better with more plastic film.
The house has a sill plate strictly speaking only along the short sides, while on the long sides, the beams are alone on the foundation wall, and the studs meet on top of the beam, with 60 cm centers on all wall studs.
The south short side is most exposed to the weather, like horizontal rain. There, the sill plate (not pressure-treated wood) was very bad and has been replaced.
Now that it’s opened up a bit, I see that the exterior sheathing board of the walls made of asfaboard is also bad, on the southern facade and locally under windows on the western side, bespeaks of past sins and so I want to replace it too. The house's facade is mexitegel, and to my dismay! it is laid with about 3 cm of glass wool directly between the brick and the asfa sheathing board. Asfa removed, and thin glass wool too, to create an air gap. (There are air openings in the brick, with an open vertical joint every 1.2 meters on the 3rd row.)
I was planning to start with the south short-side wall, which is completely windowless, by opening the wall from the inside, which consists of 13mm gypsum, vapor-tight plastic film, then 95 mm glass wool between 45x95 studs, followed by asfa, and the thin glass wool against the brick facade.
The question is now, how best to construct a new wind barrier when you have to work from the inside? Use Tyvek fabric attached to the outer side of the studs with a staple gun, meaning locally in every approximately 550 mm wide bay between studs? Exterior gypsum or 6 mm masonite? Or use a hard/thin facade board of glass wool, glued with some foaming adhesive to the studs? Or any other suggestions? All comments are welcome!
I have bought a small one-story 100m2 house, built in '74, and it is weather-exposed, 4 km from the coast in northwest Skåne.
Crawl space, where I am currently replacing the asfaboard panels since they have a slight odor.
The first measure was to install a dehumidifier and cover the crawl space surface a bit better with more plastic film.
The house has a sill plate strictly speaking only along the short sides, while on the long sides, the beams are alone on the foundation wall, and the studs meet on top of the beam, with 60 cm centers on all wall studs.
The south short side is most exposed to the weather, like horizontal rain. There, the sill plate (not pressure-treated wood) was very bad and has been replaced.
Now that it’s opened up a bit, I see that the exterior sheathing board of the walls made of asfaboard is also bad, on the southern facade and locally under windows on the western side, bespeaks of past sins and so I want to replace it too. The house's facade is mexitegel, and to my dismay! it is laid with about 3 cm of glass wool directly between the brick and the asfa sheathing board. Asfa removed, and thin glass wool too, to create an air gap. (There are air openings in the brick, with an open vertical joint every 1.2 meters on the 3rd row.)
I was planning to start with the south short-side wall, which is completely windowless, by opening the wall from the inside, which consists of 13mm gypsum, vapor-tight plastic film, then 95 mm glass wool between 45x95 studs, followed by asfa, and the thin glass wool against the brick facade.
The question is now, how best to construct a new wind barrier when you have to work from the inside? Use Tyvek fabric attached to the outer side of the studs with a staple gun, meaning locally in every approximately 550 mm wide bay between studs? Exterior gypsum or 6 mm masonite? Or use a hard/thin facade board of glass wool, glued with some foaming adhesive to the studs? Or any other suggestions? All comments are welcome!
Hi mlkjhr
I've thought about it, but it feels more troublesome, perhaps mostly because it seems like a bigger undertaking, especially since a bricklayer is needed to rebuild the wall.
When I do it from the inside, I can work by myself, even if it takes a little more time. The cost for new interior drywall + spackling is not significant for 8 linear meters of wall. It's only one short side that I'm considering taking, the other sides have overhanging eaves that have been better protected, and on the north short side there's a förrråd-garage directly on the wall, so it's in new condition.
I'd appreciate practical advice on how to build up the wind protection surface from someone who has done something similar? !
I've thought about it, but it feels more troublesome, perhaps mostly because it seems like a bigger undertaking, especially since a bricklayer is needed to rebuild the wall.
When I do it from the inside, I can work by myself, even if it takes a little more time. The cost for new interior drywall + spackling is not significant for 8 linear meters of wall. It's only one short side that I'm considering taking, the other sides have overhanging eaves that have been better protected, and on the north short side there's a förrråd-garage directly on the wall, so it's in new condition.
I'd appreciate practical advice on how to build up the wind protection surface from someone who has done something similar? !
Traditionally, the (Mexi) brick has been torn down and the wall restored with wooden paneling or a plaster facade instead.
In your case, it looks a bit odd with only one facade side, but maybe it's part of a longer-term renovation plan?
For example, a plaster facade with elements of cedar or larch.
http://www.villaportalen.se/fotogalleri/traehus-putsad-fasad/xn-villan/putsad-fasad_25861-25716.asp
It can be quite easily restored with insulation and a proper two-step plaster facade.
In your case, it looks a bit odd with only one facade side, but maybe it's part of a longer-term renovation plan?
For example, a plaster facade with elements of cedar or larch.
http://www.villaportalen.se/fotogalleri/traehus-putsad-fasad/xn-villan/putsad-fasad_25861-25716.asp
It can be quite easily restored with insulation and a proper two-step plaster facade.
Thanks for the response!
Update: After tearing out half of the short side's insulation and asfaboard from the inside, 3.6 meters in length, I can see the full situation:
- The thin glass wool insulation inside the mexitegel, where the air gap should have been instead, had a paper surface against the mexitegel, and was probably attached with longitudinal strips of masking tape on the outside against the brick. After 42 years, and an increasingly leaky brick wall, the paper surface is more than half decomposed, and the tape strips are black-moldy. The inside of the brick is mostly white but has some black mold here and there. I have washed the inside with a simple mold wash using a sponge, but the black spots remain partly in the brick. Additionally, the brick joints are no longer attractive, and you can see light through in some places. So, time for a decision:
Tear off the mexitegel? Feels most reasonable. As a first step this year, do this only on this short side (7.8 meters long, 2.70 high) and replace it with insulation and create a plastered facade (with an air gap) at the same level as the old outer surface of the brick, which also aligns exactly with the foundation wall. Perhaps Sto system on fiberglass fabric?
The long-term plan for the two long sides is: Entrance side towards the east: maybe plaster on the mexitegel.
While on the west long side I would consider an extension at an angle of only 2.2 meters out along half the length of 6.8 meters, (Attefall rules), also plastered on a wooden frame. A lot of glass on this part. The remaining mexitegel part here might also be replaced at the same time.
The then remaining northern short side is a wall against the garage and storage, so it can remain untouched.
And all comments are gratefully received!
Update: After tearing out half of the short side's insulation and asfaboard from the inside, 3.6 meters in length, I can see the full situation:
- The thin glass wool insulation inside the mexitegel, where the air gap should have been instead, had a paper surface against the mexitegel, and was probably attached with longitudinal strips of masking tape on the outside against the brick. After 42 years, and an increasingly leaky brick wall, the paper surface is more than half decomposed, and the tape strips are black-moldy. The inside of the brick is mostly white but has some black mold here and there. I have washed the inside with a simple mold wash using a sponge, but the black spots remain partly in the brick. Additionally, the brick joints are no longer attractive, and you can see light through in some places. So, time for a decision:
Tear off the mexitegel? Feels most reasonable. As a first step this year, do this only on this short side (7.8 meters long, 2.70 high) and replace it with insulation and create a plastered facade (with an air gap) at the same level as the old outer surface of the brick, which also aligns exactly with the foundation wall. Perhaps Sto system on fiberglass fabric?
The long-term plan for the two long sides is: Entrance side towards the east: maybe plaster on the mexitegel.
While on the west long side I would consider an extension at an angle of only 2.2 meters out along half the length of 6.8 meters, (Attefall rules), also plastered on a wooden frame. A lot of glass on this part. The remaining mexitegel part here might also be replaced at the same time.
The then remaining northern short side is a wall against the garage and storage, so it can remain untouched.
And all comments are gratefully received!
That sounds like the right decision!
You might consider having a wooden facade as well, price-wise, a nice facade is on par with a plaster facade.
How is the facade on the front behind the brick? Is it possible to inspect it maybe? It might be within the 10-year plan to tear down and fix that wall.
It might be worth taking a bike ride through some newly built areas and see how the facades look.
I like plaster facades, but I want them to be broken up with wooden inlays, glass, or similar so it's not just one big wall.
You might consider having a wooden facade as well, price-wise, a nice facade is on par with a plaster facade.
How is the facade on the front behind the brick? Is it possible to inspect it maybe? It might be within the 10-year plan to tear down and fix that wall.
It might be worth taking a bike ride through some newly built areas and see how the facades look.
I like plaster facades, but I want them to be broken up with wooden inlays, glass, or similar so it's not just one big wall.
Hi Corre, thanks for the input!
Yes, I have looked at your previous link on villaportalen, and indeed there's a lot of nice stuff,
but in my case, I don't think there is any problem with having a completely (white-)plastered wall, the house is quite low compared to the surroundings, so not too dominant, and it's already in some sort of white (gray joints), and the roof (gable roof 30 degrees, dark gray concrete tiles) is quite massive in comparison, so there's no danger of dullness with a smooth white facade.
The houses in my surroundings are from the 70s and 80s and are tidy but not so exciting. So no need to be too elaborate.
And first a bit of hard work left...
Yes, I have looked at your previous link on villaportalen, and indeed there's a lot of nice stuff,
but in my case, I don't think there is any problem with having a completely (white-)plastered wall, the house is quite low compared to the surroundings, so not too dominant, and it's already in some sort of white (gray joints), and the roof (gable roof 30 degrees, dark gray concrete tiles) is quite massive in comparison, so there's no danger of dullness with a smooth white facade.
The houses in my surroundings are from the 70s and 80s and are tidy but not so exciting. So no need to be too elaborate.
And first a bit of hard work left...
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