Hello.
I have a house with a brick frame and plaster on the outside.
In two rooms, fiberglass and plaster have been used for insulation for a long time.
After investigations, there is moisture in this.
I want to tear this out and achieve a good moisture-proof wall again.
Insulation effect is not the most important, but rather finding a good solution that prevents me from having to replace the ceiling and floor due to the gap that will arise.
Looking at Skamowall and Ytong's different solutions that are diffusion open. The problem is that it is a bit complicated and expensive.
Is there any other good solution?
Grateful for an answer!
I have a house with a brick frame and plaster on the outside.
In two rooms, fiberglass and plaster have been used for insulation for a long time.
After investigations, there is moisture in this.
I want to tear this out and achieve a good moisture-proof wall again.
Insulation effect is not the most important, but rather finding a good solution that prevents me from having to replace the ceiling and floor due to the gap that will arise.
Looking at Skamowall and Ytong's different solutions that are diffusion open. The problem is that it is a bit complicated and expensive.
Is there any other good solution?
Grateful for an answer!
I have no information about the options you mentioned (skamowall and Ytongs various diffusion-open solutions).
In general, lightweight aggregate concrete, lightweight concrete, and plaster are the viable options.
Gypsum and mineral wool apparently don't work. If it were possible to make it sufficiently airtight, one could theoretically consider using plastic to prevent any moisture from entering the insulation layer, but it's difficult to achieve airtightness in existing houses, and there's a risk of the same problems faced by single-sealed facades. That is, if moisture gets in, it's hard for it to escape and be ventilated away.
Is the issue with building/plastering internally, prompting you to seek some sort of dry carpentry solution instead?
In general, lightweight aggregate concrete, lightweight concrete, and plaster are the viable options.
Gypsum and mineral wool apparently don't work. If it were possible to make it sufficiently airtight, one could theoretically consider using plastic to prevent any moisture from entering the insulation layer, but it's difficult to achieve airtightness in existing houses, and there's a risk of the same problems faced by single-sealed facades. That is, if moisture gets in, it's hard for it to escape and be ventilated away.
Is the issue with building/plastering internally, prompting you to seek some sort of dry carpentry solution instead?
Hi.Oldboy said:
Starting to tear down the walls tomorrow.
Today it's just gypsum-plastic-fiberglass insulation-plastered brick.
Air has then snuck in from the room and condensed.
So I don't want to do the same solution...
Would lightweight concrete work?
Does it "breathe" as well? It's cheaper than the other options I’m looking at.
I have quite a bit of electrical work to hide since it was done in this wall when it was plastered as well. Can that be fixed in lightweight concrete?
There you go. The moisture may also come in from outside through the brick wall if it is exposed to wind and rain.M Mattepat said:
Lightweight concrete, just like regular concrete/mortar/plaster, can absorb moisture and dry out, so yes, it "breathes."
(It is regular concrete that has been allowed to ferment like a loaf of bread so that a lot of small air bubbles/pores are formed, allowing for better insulation.)
In lightweight concrete, channels are cut for conduits. Saw, chisel, carving tool, or whatever one has that works reasonably well can be used. There are certainly electricians who know which tool is best.
The biggest trouble with lightweight concrete is that it's difficult to attach things to it.