I'm thinking about how to proceed with building my new bathroom on the upper floor of the house. I've removed the walls from the previous bathroom where I intend to build a new larger bathroom. Previously, the bathroom floor was elevated, but now I want to run the plumbing within the joists. In the picture, I've marked where the proposed wall should go. Ideally, I'd like to recess the particle board in some way to avoid having too high of a threshold to the bathroom.
How can I do this in the best way? Should I cut the boards at no. 2 and lay the particle board up to that point and live with the fact that it will be at a higher level, or can I solve it another way?
All suggestions are welcome
Best regards, Carl
How can I do this in the best way? Should I cut the boards at no. 2 and lay the particle board up to that point and live with the fact that it will be at a higher level, or can I solve it another way?
All suggestions are welcome
Best regards, Carl
First and foremost, you will probably need to block between the floor joists to support the wall... Are you planning to use a vinyl floor or tiles? What are the dimensions of the joists? Span between supports? How stable/swaying is it currently?
What are your plans to the left of the drawn wall? Is it a problem to make alterations to the floor planks that are there?
Spontaneously, I think about clearing the floor planks in what will become the bathroom and up to the first batten that lies outside the bathroom (that is, outside the marked wall, hence the question above). Then you can access the entire floor structure for reinforcement (at least if tiles) and pipework.
If height is critical, there are constructions where you place the subfloor between the floor joists rather than on top.
Spontaneously, I think about clearing the floor planks in what will become the bathroom and up to the first batten that lies outside the bathroom (that is, outside the marked wall, hence the question above). Then you can access the entire floor structure for reinforcement (at least if tiles) and pipework.
If height is critical, there are constructions where you place the subfloor between the floor joists rather than on top.
There lies a bedroom, and the floorboards have just been sanded and oiled. So I don't want to tear up more than necessary. It probably leans towards removing the boards up to the last floor joist and laying chipboard on the rest.
Joists are about 700mm center-to-center. How thick do the chipboards need to be?
Joists are about 700mm center-to-center. How thick do the chipboards need to be?
Bernieberg said:
Read on GVK that you can reinforce the beam layer with lightweight fill material. (https://www.gvk.se/branschregler/golv/forstarka-trabjalklag/lattfyllnadsmassa)
I could do that so that the height of the new floor does not exceed the height of the floor beams. But the question still remains how I do it under the new wall :/
I could do that so that the height of the new floor does not exceed the height of the floor beams. But the question still remains how I do it under the new wall :/
Then I really understand that you don't want to tear and wear more than necessary.
Can you answer the questions from arkTecko and perhaps upload some more overview images to make it easier to give tips?
Floor chipboard is normally 22 mm, and that thickness is not to be seen as a variable. You have to adjust the joists instead to achieve sufficient rigidity.
Can you answer the questions from arkTecko and perhaps upload some more overview images to make it easier to give tips?
Floor chipboard is normally 22 mm, and that thickness is not to be seen as a variable. You have to adjust the joists instead to achieve sufficient rigidity.
That might be a good method, but I don't see how it's advantageous for keeping the build height down compared to filling the joist with "regular" insulation? The top of the floor joists is where it is.B carlkarlin said:
A thought about the joist at the new wall: It looks like the new wall will land approximately midway between two floor joists, and I definitely think you should try to get a good support in the joist. If you were to cut the existing wooden floor along the new wall ("on the bedroom side"), maybe you could manage to insert noggings in the pocket, fastened with joist hangers on the bedroom side and through the beam on the bathroom side. Would that be a feasible solution?
I will check if I can reach the beam under the bedroom floor and if I can use it to make a reinforcement under the new wall.
What I meant by gaining better construction height with EPS is that the floor drain would be level with the top edge of the floor beam instead of the height that chipboard and gypsum build above the floor beam.
Unfortunately, it is not possible to move the wall in the bedroom further, nor in the bedroom on the other side, as it would become too narrow. Attached is a floor plan with the new walls marked in red.
What I meant by gaining better construction height with EPS is that the floor drain would be level with the top edge of the floor beam instead of the height that chipboard and gypsum build above the floor beam.
Unfortunately, it is not possible to move the wall in the bedroom further, nor in the bedroom on the other side, as it would become too narrow. Attached is a floor plan with the new walls marked in red.
Aha, so you apply self-leveling compound directly on EPS and joists? That is height-efficient then.B carlkarlin said:
