FG, what you're saying about weight - I hadn't considered that, it definitely seems like the cause of this. I prefer not to use any shavings. The oak floor does weigh quite a bit, along with all the furnishings that are added. The floor vibrated when the room was empty - estate.
In this case, since the floor structure rests on the support beam/concrete wall in the basement, it should be possible to make it stable. Often, there can be other factors that degrade stability; floor structures and floors should preferably not have contact between rooms. The plank floor should not have contact with the walls, and walls should not be built on the plank floor but rather on the beams. I have a pine floor in the attic where a light wall has been built on the floor, which causes the floor vibrations to travel up the wall.
Ok, then I think I start to understand how it all fits together. So you have parts of two joists in one room? That can definitely create problems.
Regarding the weight, F=ma, i.e., if the force (foot impact) is constant and the mass has increased (screwing on floor chipboard/gypsum), then the acceleration (vibrations) will undoubtedly be much less.
So, stiffen and make the joists heavier, and you will get less noticeable vibrations. There are no problems getting good joists with 195 or 220s rules and cc600. But when building new houses, floor chipboard is used, but preferably floor gypsum to stiffen and densify the construction!
Regarding the weight, F=ma, i.e., if the force (foot impact) is constant and the mass has increased (screwing on floor chipboard/gypsum), then the acceleration (vibrations) will undoubtedly be much less.
So, stiffen and make the joists heavier, and you will get less noticeable vibrations. There are no problems getting good joists with 195 or 220s rules and cc600. But when building new houses, floor chipboard is used, but preferably floor gypsum to stiffen and densify the construction!
Screw-glue the floor gypsum or chipboard and then glue the oak floor onto the substrate with elastic adhesive like Bona r848 or similar. Insert some support screws/nails in each board so you can walk on the floor immediately and avoid weighing it down until the adhesive cures. Leave at least a 10 mm air gap against all walls! Don't forget to place a layer of mineral wool in each joist space. It greatly improves the feel of walking on the floor. It sounds more solid then.
If you don't glue, you must use soundproofing underlay between the gypsum and the floor. Otherwise, it will creak a lot. Do not use felt paper. It quickly loses its soundproofing properties and becomes like having a layer of paper in between. It doesn't help at all.
If you don't glue, you must use soundproofing underlay between the gypsum and the floor. Otherwise, it will creak a lot. Do not use felt paper. It quickly loses its soundproofing properties and becomes like having a layer of paper in between. It doesn't help at all.
No. Floor gypsum is not self-supporting. If you want a subfloor, it needs to be 22 mm floor chipboard or alternatively 20-25 mm fiber gypsum, like Fermacell or KnaufDano.spaxx said:
http://www.knaufdanogips.se/index.p...sentation/skivundergolvsystem/fribarande-golv
Sounds like floor chipboard is a winning concept then!FG said:
It is the geometry of the beams in combination with their quality that determines the deflection. Your 70x195 are too weak for the current span, and you cannot do anything about the timber quality. The best strategy is to improve the bending resistance by screw-gluing a particle board (or even better, a construction plywood) about 20 mm on top. This will also give you a better substrate for your oak planks. 20 mm floorboards are too weak for the current c/c if you want a rigid floor.
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· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
It's just that plywood has half of its fibers in the wrong direction, solid wood is better, and laminated wood is even better.
Protte
Protte
Ymer's suggestion is creative, but naturally, one should use regular wood with fibers in the right direction as the prototype points out. However, if you calculate it, screwing and gluing particle board/plywood on top of the joists gives a greater effect.
On second thought, I believe that regular wood and plywood can work just as well for reinforcing a beam. The fact that the plywood has certain layers in the wrong direction is probably counteracted by the larger number of glue joints. What is correct can surely only be verified through testing. However, gluing and screwing on the top side is better, you can figure that out.