Hello
I'm renovating the downstairs and have taken down the ceiling and walls. To make room for the underfloor heating manifold, I had to cut one of the studs in the load-bearing wall. However, it didn't seem to be carrying any load as it was easy to remove. Now that I have everything exposed, I see that the longitudinal beam towards the ceiling looks very weak and is sagging in several places where the supports for the inter-floor structure are located. Should I prop up the wall and insert a thicker beam? If so, what size should I use? The wall is about 3.20 meters long, and then a glulam beam takes over. The inter-floor structure is just under 9 meters. The hole where there used to be a door closest to the glulam will be sealed, so I can add more studs here. But what should I do above the underfloor heating cabinet? There, the distance between the studs is 1.15 meters. Renovation site with exposed beams, wall studs, insulation, and a ladder; cables and plumbing are visible. Rolls of insulation material on the floor. Renovation scene showing exposed wooden studs, a floor heating manifold, and insulation materials stacked in the background. Cables hang from the ceiling. Exposed ceiling with wooden beams and insulation; a structural beam appears thin and potentially inadequate, with visible sagging at support points. Renovation scene showing exposed ceiling insulation and framing, with visible pipes and a window. Patchy wallpaper on wall and wood beam details visible. A measuring tape against wooden beams, showing a ceiling beam's thickness during renovation. Red-marked tape measures about 16 cm. Circular window in background. A wooden beam with a ruler measuring its dimensions and gray corrugated pipes running alongside. A wooden ruler is positioned vertically against a timber joist, next to insulation material and a visible nail, indicating ongoing renovation work.

Best regards, Daniel
 
Nobody has any ideas or thoughts?
 
Do as above the door. It's probably "just a matter of switching off" simply. Now there are double studs on one side so it's just about closing the door and inserting double noggings above the cabinet and single ones beside it. And then frame up with a suitable CC since the door is no longer there and was the natural place to patch up drywall or whatever you are using. If you want to handle a lot of forces, you need to put in braces between the floor and noggings in the spaces next to the cabinet and then continue with braces above the cabinet in those spaces. But that's probably a bit advanced. (depending on how it looks upward in the house, of course)
 
Last edited:
surris
Place a board horizontally over the cabinet, then beam above as usual.
 
surris surris said:
Place a rule horizontally over the cabinet then you rule above as usual.
This together with the wall panels becomes really strong(y)
 
As you mentioned; in the door opening, double the single stud next to the cabinet and add a stud in the middle of the opening. In the now doubled studs next to the central unit, glue and screw an additional stud on each side as far as possible towards the central unit's top. In these studs, create notches for 45*195. Simple and strong!
 
Thanks for the response guys :D

So it's enough to frame off as you describe. You don't need to support up and replace the entire overhead beam? It looked so weak...
Good if that's the case, I was envisioning a lot of hassle...

Ok, the plan is to install new beams and then frame off the openings with 45x195! And both glue and screw!
 
Click here to reply
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.