I need to craft a better way to lift the cars in the garage. Currently, I have four three-piece ramps that you have to lay out in stages to get all four wheels up. It would be better to lift with a jack.
Car tire on wooden planks used as makeshift ramps in a garage setting, experimenting with alternative lifting methods.
Did a little test with a simple 45x120 "the wrong way" and drove a car up. It bent at most 3 mm. I thought it would go badly over the free span, but it didn't! There was about half a meter free and 500 kg.

I would like to build as below, so you drive up all four wheels onto a construction as below, using four smaller removable ramps. Then, insert the jack and lift, and finish by sliding in a number of screwed-together beams to lower the weight onto. Done. Width >265 mm. Opening for jack < 300 mm.
Feels still a bit weak at 45 mm (120+145)?

I should be able to be underneath the car! I'm planning to set up jack stands too, of course.

Diagram of a car lifting mechanism with ramps and a space for a hydraulic jack. Hand-drawn illustration with circular and straight elements.

Is there a simple formula booklet for this (point load)? I can calculate if I have a reference point.

Alternatively, I can buy glulam 66x315, which would be a suitably sized platform. Then calculation seems unnecessary...?

Wrong forum section??

A car parked on a homemade wooden ramp with the driver's side door open in a garage driveway setting.
Today's solution does raise 203 mm, but it takes a while to drive up, and everything takes up space when not in use.
 
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What kind of car is it, a Skoda, SEAT, or Fiat?

Buy an SUV, and you get a free "lift".
 
KnockOnWood KnockOnWood said:
What kind of car is that
Now I think KOW is tired!
Doesn't he see the propeller logo on the wheel hub?
images
 
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ricebridge and 1 other
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Haha. :)
It should work for cars with normal ground clearance.
This is close to my thought. But it looks a bit flimsy.
 
There is an American version of that
You drive up, then in with the jack and pump up to the right height and lock.
 
thomas33 thomas33 said:
Now I think KOW is tired!
Doesn't he see the propeller logo on the wheel hub?
[bild]
Yes, I saw it. But such rims can even be put on a Volvo, right?

(I myself drive a rice cooker, a Honda)

PS
By the way, do you know what they call BMW and AUDI here in my area?

PS 2
By the way, why should you even lift the car up at all?
 
vcx
Open book with diagrams and equations related to beam mechanics and structural engineering.

Here you go! Unfortunately, I don't remember the name of the book, but it was available at my local library 6 years ago...
 
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martin43
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KnockOnWood KnockOnWood said:
Yes, I saw that. But you can even put such rims on a Volvo?

(I'm driving a riskokare myself, a Honda)

PS By the way, do you know what they call BMW and AUDI around here?

PS 2 By the way, why should you even lift the car at all?
  1. Certainly can. You can also put a BMW engine in a Volvo, or why not a BMW original warning triangle in a Honda, preferably mounted in the rear window?
  2. No, but probably something prejudiced that lacks insight and doesn't move the thread forward.
  3. To perform maintenance?
 
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mawno
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Most ramps take up space and are cumbersome. If you want to go up a bit, they also become quite large; otherwise, the angle becomes too steep for regular cars.

With a nice paving like in the picture, I would go with a garage jack and four jack stands.
 
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corre
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Exactly! That's why I want to create a better version.
I have several sturdy jacks and jack stands. But the trick is that it takes several tries and some maneuvering before the car is up on all four. Especially since you can't lift with the jack and then place the jack stand where you just lifted. I prefer to lift at the correct lifting points (and not on the diff) as well.

I also want to protect myself against any potential disaster due to hidden rust or similar issues. If the car is on its wheels (except for the one being worked on if it's that kind of job), it feels safe.

I have replaced a front suspension before in the garage and it went much better than I had hoped (I'm a beginner). So now I want to be able to replace a clutch, for example. ;)

It is also noticeable that there is a big difference driving up on two ramps compared to four.
 
I probably wouldn't want to lift under the wheels with a jack, there are a few too many things that can move. Maybe I'm being paranoid, but I've had my fair share of collapsing jacks and cars falling around the driveway...

It looks like an E39? Then there's a lifting point under the engine, and you can lift at the rear subframe (if you don't want to lift by the diff) and then place jack stands on the standard jack mounts. If you have a sports suspension, it might be a bit difficult to reach the lifting point under the engine if you don't have a low-profile jack, but it's easily solved with a board or two.
 
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martin43 and 1 other
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martin43
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Thanks for the response!

Yep, E39, I've done as you wrote before (after driving up on some planks). It works but is a bit tricky. Very good lifting point at the front! The problem is that I don't only have the E39. ;)

I've also thought about lifting under the wheels. The front wheels especially can roll freely! At the same time, no one will be under the car at that moment, so I can probably accept a little risk there. Lifting when you want to go high doesn't always feel perfect either. I can also weld a larger plate onto the jack that has the same width as the jack's front wheels.

The big advantage with all of this would be to quickly reach a higher height and then be able to secure with jack stands as well. When lifting at the lift points, the wheels must first spring out.

It's probably like usual. One should make a prototype and test a little to see if it's a viable path or not.
 
The hydraulic ramps look exciting!
I wonder if it's possible to use four of them!
If they don't work in sync, you might push the car off. Then it's not possible to switch over to jack stands anyway.
 
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