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14 replies
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14 replies
Regarding the installation of vapor barrier
Hello
Quick question about vapor barriers when re-roofing (new insulation, wooden boarding, outer roof) Should the seam (where one end is clamped under the beam) also be taped? (see image)
Surely, the ends towards the wall should be as tight as possible? It feels like the builders have been quite fast with the stapling, some staples have come loose and it's hardly "barred". Should it be taped?
Quick question about vapor barriers when re-roofing (new insulation, wooden boarding, outer roof) Should the seam (where one end is clamped under the beam) also be taped? (see image)
Surely, the ends towards the wall should be as tight as possible? It feels like the builders have been quite fast with the stapling, some staples have come loose and it's hardly "barred". Should it be taped?
surris
Construction veteran
· Sverige
· 1 692 posts
surris
Construction veteran
- Sverige
- 1,692 posts
It's okay to clamp the plastic, but it should have support everywhere. It doesn't look like there's a lengthwise stud behind the battens.Z Zips said:Hi,
Quick question about vapor barrier during roof renovation (new insulation, raw boards, outer roof). Should the seam (where one end is clamped under a stud) also be taped? (see picture)
The ends against the wall should be as tight as possible, right? Feels like the builders have been pretty quick with stapling, some staples have come loose and it's hardly "barriered". Should it be taped?
In Picture 2, it should be taped to make it airtight.
If the staples come loose and there are holes, they should be repaired with tape.
It also looks like there's a gap in the insulation.
Mats-S
Construction veteran
· Sollentuna
· 3 616 posts
Mats-S
Construction veteran
- Sollentuna
- 3,616 posts
Incredibly sloppy insulation, does it look like that in other places? Both pictures show shortcomings in the insulation's fitting against the studs. Fix all such places, as cold will seep in there 🤔 If you can't reach, you can typically minimally cut open the plastic, fix the insulation, and then restore it seriously with duct tape.surris said:
Ok. No, there's nothing more longitudinal than the battens. Yes, there are some gaps in the insulation where the blocks haven't quite fitted in properly.surris said:
It's okay to clamp the plastic but it should have support everywhere. It doesn't look like there's any longitudinal support behind the battens.
In picture 2, it should be taped to make it tight.
If the staples come loose and there are holes, you should repair with tape.
It also looks like there are gaps in the insulation.
Taping the plastic film with duct tape doesn't feel like a serious solution. There are better tapes intended for plastic film.Mats-S said:
Incredibly sloppy insulation, does it look like that in more places? Both pictures show gaps in the insulation fitting against the studs.
Fix all such spots, because that's where the cold will seep in 🤔 If you can't reach, it is usually possible to cut minimally in the plastic, fix the insulation, and then restore properly with duct tape.
surris
Construction veteran
· Sverige
· 1 692 posts
surris
Construction veteran
- Sverige
- 1,692 posts
Mats-S
Construction veteran
· Sollentuna
· 3 616 posts
Mats-S
Construction veteran
- Sollentuna
- 3,616 posts
It will definitely hold in the protected environment.Rejäl said:
For example, I renovated my entire ground floor a few years ago, there was duct tape that had been in place for 40 years and was in like-new condition without a millimeter released, so yes, it holds even over the years, we're talking about an environment here without UV light that might otherwise break it down
I've found some duct tape that's supposed to hold both plastic film and ventilation tight, and sure, the tape stays together but the adhesive came off many years ago. If the plastic film has substantial overlaps, it usually stays fairly tight anyway, but otherwise, it's not good.Mats-S said:
It should be added that there are surely 1000 types of duct tape.
No, buy tape that is age-resistant and made for the purpose!
Then I suggest you take on the guarantee for that, because duct tape's adhesive is not nearly as good as those green tapes (aging-resistant building foil tape) and moreover, I don't think regular duct tape is aging-resistant... I'll include some facts so we're not just going by what you and I are saying...Mats-S said:
It certainly holds up in the protected environment. For example, I renovated my entire ground floor a few years ago, and there was duct tape that had been there for 40 years and was in like-new condition with not a millimeter lifted, so yes, it holds up even over the years. We're talking about an environment here without UV light that might otherwise break it down![]()
https://gds.se/spara-energi/isolering/byggfolietejp-darfor-ska-du-anvanda-byggfolietejp
Maybe that's a bit of the problem.Mats-S said:
It definitely holds in a protected environment.
For example, I renovated my entire ground floor a few years ago, and there was duct tape that had been in place for 40 years and was in mint condition, not a millimeter had come loose, so yes, it holds even over the years. We're talking about an environment here without UV light which might break it down otherwise![]()
Was it Biltema duct tape, Ahsell duct tape, 3M duct tape,
or just a silvery tape...
A safer bet might be to choose a tape that at least claims to work.
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