I live in an old mission house where the trusses in the church hall are constructed as follows. There are a total of 10 trusses, span approx. 9m, length about 10m. There is only a collar beam between the upper frame, except on trusses 4 and 7 where there are also tie rods about 80cm above where the truss meets the wall plate. My idea now is to build two floors in 2/3 of the hall, and I would like to remove these tie rods and convert to a Swedish truss/frame truss. One tie rod is moved to truss 8 or 9.
Then to my question: How would you do it? Contact a structural engineer? Price? Overdimensioned?
Then to my question: How would you do it? Contact a structural engineer? Price? Overdimensioned?
A 9m span is quite a lot, meaning it requires relatively high beams. Is there space for a thick floor structure? Or will you have load-bearing posts/walls down there?
Personally, I would aim for a construction solution that I feel comfortable with, based on my own experience and with known construction dimensions as a benchmark. (Which probably means some over-dimensioning since I am a cautious person.)
Personally, I would aim for a construction solution that I feel comfortable with, based on my own experience and with known construction dimensions as a benchmark. (Which probably means some over-dimensioning since I am a cautious person.)
Grundstött
· Halland
· 28 345 posts
Joppa83, it's probably difficult, if not impossible, to give any advice based on so little information.
No one wants to pull an "Aschbergare" and lead you astray
But you've thought for yourself: As you write, a structural engineer is needed on site.
It's probably a requirement from the municipal building committee as well.
No one wants to pull an "Aschbergare" and lead you astray
But you've thought for yourself: As you write, a structural engineer is needed on site.
It's probably a requirement from the municipal building committee as well.
Thanks for the input.
There will be two load-bearing interior walls, so the maximum span will be 4.2m, so the joists will be 45x220 K24.
I feel confident about the construction; after all, it is tried and tested. But there will probably be a meeting with a structural engineer, just to be on the safe side.
There will be two load-bearing interior walls, so the maximum span will be 4.2m, so the joists will be 45x220 K24.
I feel confident about the construction; after all, it is tried and tested. But there will probably be a meeting with a structural engineer, just to be on the safe side.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 060 posts
The flooring will be able to hold the walls together, so the tie rods might not be necessary.
The flooring must be firmly attached to the wall.
Protte
The flooring must be firmly attached to the wall.
Protte
I agree with protte.
If the joists are properly attached to the lower part of the rafters, they can probably replace the tension rods.
The purpose of the rods is to prevent the upper chords and the top of the walls from buckling out. If you can replace this with something else (a joist that holds everything together), it should work.
If the joists are properly attached to the lower part of the rafters, they can probably replace the tension rods.
The purpose of the rods is to prevent the upper chords and the top of the walls from buckling out. If you can replace this with something else (a joist that holds everything together), it should work.
Thanks again for the input.
The joists should be installed at cc600, so in each "compartment" I plan to drill through the outer wall and mount a 16mm or 20mm threaded rod with a washer and nut. This will ensure it's properly anchored to the old construction.
The joists should be installed at cc600, so in each "compartment" I plan to drill through the outer wall and mount a 16mm or 20mm threaded rod with a washer and nut. This will ensure it's properly anchored to the old construction.
Due to the ceiling height on the new upper floor, the floor structure will be installed 20-30cm below the truss/wall joint. Hence the reinforcement with posts from the truss down into the floor structure.Mikael_L said:I agree with protte.
If the floor structure is properly attached to the lower part of the trusses, it can probably replace the tie rods.
The purpose of the rods is to prevent the top chords of the trusses and the top of the walls from bowing out. If this can be replaced with something else (a floor structure that holds everything together), then it should work.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 060 posts
20-30 cm is not a problem, the wall will not buckle.
Protte
Protte
Small update.
The tie rods are not attached to the rafters as I first thought, but at the top of the wall.
Then the new floor should handle these forces, right? Like the tie rods do today. The floor is about 50cm below the tie rods. Still, I will build onto the rafters so that they look like a raised framework truss. Just to be on the safe side.
The tie rods are not attached to the rafters as I first thought, but at the top of the wall.
Then the new floor should handle these forces, right? Like the tie rods do today. The floor is about 50cm below the tie rods. Still, I will build onto the rafters so that they look like a raised framework truss. Just to be on the safe side.
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