6,498 views ·
32 replies
6k views
32 replies
Questions about drywall installation
Ok! But regarding screwing drywall. I have osb as the first layer, then drywall on that. At xl bygg, they said it's enough to screw the drywall on the edges directly to the osb. However, it feels like you'd want some additional screws in the middle of the board, right? I've spaced cc60, and where it aligns, I, of course, use longer screws directly into the beam. But some boards will only be screwed into the osb if I only screw at the edges.TuXy said:The fiberglass tape is fine to use, it's been done for many years.
However, the paper tape is said to be better and takes up cracks even better in all directions compared to the fiberglass tape.
I used fiberglass on the ceiling with wooden battens above and it's holding up perfectly even 3 years later. Not a single crack.
As long as you've screwed the OSB into the studs, it's more than enough to only screw the gypsum into the OSB.Hoffmeister said:Ok! But regarding screwing of gypsum. I have OSB as a first layer, then gypsum on that. At XL Bygg they said it's enough to screw the gypsum at the edges directly onto the OSB. However, it feels like you would want some additional screws in the middle of the board, right? I have framed at cc60, and where it aligns I, of course, use longer screws directly into the frame. But some boards will only be screwed into the OSB if you only screw at the edges
Gypsum boards are screwed around the periphery and in the middle of the board.
Good that you have OSB behind the gypsum, it will make it easier to attach things to the wall in the future!
You can, in other words, sleep well
Ok, I've screwed the edges and actually put a vertical row in the middle of each board too. It felt like the right thing to do, even though they said at the hardware store that screwing the edges is enough.TuXy said:As long as you have screwed the OSB into the studs, it's more than sufficient to screw the drywall into just the OSB.
Drywall is screwed around the edges and in the middle of the board.
Good that you have OSB behind the drywall, it will make it easier to attach things to the wall in the future!
In other words, you can sleep well![]()
Thanks for the help! Such a darn good forum this is for amateurs like me!
Exactly, it's called vertical! You did absolutely right by doing so.Hoffmeister said:
Even if they say you don't need to do it at the builder’s merchant... Well, put screws vertically in the middle as well.
We all have been amateurs, and it is through trying and asking that we learn.
Good luck
Last edited:
Either you misunderstood, or XL has no idea how it should be done. You did the right thing by screwing in the middle. Check on the websites of some of the major drywall manufacturers, there you'll find how it should be screwed.Hoffmeister said:Ok! But regarding screwing drywall. I have OSB as the first layer, then drywall on top of that. At XL Bygg they suggested that it's enough to screw the drywall at the edges directly onto the OSB. However, it seems like you would want some additional screws in the middle of the board, right? I've framed at cc60, and where it aligns, I of course use longer screws directly into the frame. But some boards would only be screwed into the OSB if you just screw at the edges
I have used 70mm insulation. Why would you use 45? It doesn't fill up properly? I have 70mm thick insulation in my interior walls that are framed with 70mm studs.nino said:
Simple insulation board, supposed to be good for sound (or actually bad) when sound waves pass through several different layers of material, more and more sound disappears kind of
Something like that a carpenter explained
Something like that a carpenter explained
But if you lay a single 45 insulating board, then you'll have 25 mm of air in the wall? Is that good?nino said:
Tool enthusiast
· Stockholm
· 1 399 posts
A partition's ability to isolate sound is based on the mass-air-mass principle. Increasing the values of these parameters enhances the construction's sound-insulating ability.
If the studs are staggered or, even better, constructed with separate stud structures, we achieve a decoupling that significantly increases sound insulation.
Inside the wall, resonance occurs, and this is where insulation comes into play to absorb this resonance (s).
If the insulation is packed tightly, the material's absorption capacity is reduced. Additionally, it causes the board materials on both sides to "short circuit" each other.
In response to the questions,
@ 45 mm insulation in 70 mm stud space? OK
@ soft seal between ceiling - gypsum ceiling/hammer beam? YES
If the studs are staggered or, even better, constructed with separate stud structures, we achieve a decoupling that significantly increases sound insulation.
Inside the wall, resonance occurs, and this is where insulation comes into play to absorb this resonance (s).
If the insulation is packed tightly, the material's absorption capacity is reduced. Additionally, it causes the board materials on both sides to "short circuit" each other.
In response to the questions,
@ 45 mm insulation in 70 mm stud space? OK
@ soft seal between ceiling - gypsum ceiling/hammer beam? YES
Last edited:
Ok, I see. I have 70 mm insulation now = more resonance?Björn Melander said:A partition wall's ability to isolate sound is based on the mass-air-mass principle. Increasing the values of these parameters enhances the construction's sound insulating capability.
If the studs are staggered or, better yet, constructed with separate framing, we achieve a decoupling that significantly boosts sound insulation.
Inside the wall, a resonance occurs, and this is where the insulation comes into play to absorb this resonance.
If the insulation is packed tightly, the material's absorption ability is reduced. Additionally, it causes the panel materials on both sides to "short-circuit" each other.
In response to the questions,
@ 45 mm insulation in 70 mm stud space? OK
@ soft seal between ceiling - increase gypsum / top plate? YES