Exactly.JohanLun said:
Today, the risk constructions for 70's houses are well-known, so it is not a problem when buying a house if you simply fulfill your duty of investigation. A good inspection company knows what to look for and, for example, that samples should be taken from the sill. Either the house is in good condition and then there is no problem, or there are problems that need evaluation.
With that said, it's worth adding that you should conduct your own inspection and not rely on the seller's and avoid Anticimex if you want an inspection worth its name.
Now there are many balls in the air. Sorting out various trends concerning building technology and building quality since the post-war period is no simple task. It requires both experience and erudition. However, there are some factors that I think one can still start from. Houses built before 1960 had much higher quality timber; for example, core pine was not uncommon in a frame structure. This may have contributed to the fact that damages due to unsuitable construction still did not occur. Between 1950 and 1975, the same insulation standard applied, i.e., about 10 cm in walls and 15 cm in beams. Wasting energy, of course, but the energy leakage kept certain building parts dry. Regarding the current problem, an uninsulated slab on the ground is a risk construction. It can work well if one is aware of why it is a risk construction. If one is indecisive before a house purchase, I think one should choose a 1950s house instead.
Yes, that's a good thought. But the availability of houses in most parts of the country is so small that it's probably a luxury for few to be able to "compare" in that way. In the end, it's about some form of overall assessment.justusandersson said:
I also believe that most 70s houses with issues today have been discovered and addressed, and as I wrote before, the risks are well known today. But of course, it's wise to avoid a risk if one can, but often 70s houses are portrayed as "risk houses," which I think is an exaggeration. It's likely due to the fact that there have been many issues, but even though most of the houses that had problems today have been dealt with, the reputation lingers.
Thank you for all the posts.
I've been informed by others on the same street that they haven't had any issues with moisture. (as far as they know)
There's a lot of sand in the ground, which I suppose means it drains well.
Will definitely bring an inspector if we decide to buy it, though we only know of Anticimex. While we're at it, are there any others we could turn to? Hestra - 70 km south of Jkpg.
Apologies if we're not allowed to recommend other inspectors, ignore that question if so!
I would like answers to:
How do you lay flooring on an uninsulated concrete slab on the ground? In what order should all the layers be laid?
Does the following order sound correct?
1. Uninsulated foundation/slab
2. Vapor barrier?
3. Platon membrane with vent. up above floor molding. How do you do this when you've leveled with electric underfloor heating?
4. Sound damping mat
?. (No insulation?)
5. Floor chipboard
6. "Floor paper"
7. Floor
Then an important question! What do I do if the sill is NOT damp BUT is lying directly on the concrete? Do I ignore this since it hasn't become damp in 40 years? Or do I do something about it?
I've been informed by others on the same street that they haven't had any issues with moisture. (as far as they know)
There's a lot of sand in the ground, which I suppose means it drains well.
Will definitely bring an inspector if we decide to buy it, though we only know of Anticimex. While we're at it, are there any others we could turn to? Hestra - 70 km south of Jkpg.
Apologies if we're not allowed to recommend other inspectors, ignore that question if so!
I would like answers to:
How do you lay flooring on an uninsulated concrete slab on the ground? In what order should all the layers be laid?
Does the following order sound correct?
1. Uninsulated foundation/slab
2. Vapor barrier?
3. Platon membrane with vent. up above floor molding. How do you do this when you've leveled with electric underfloor heating?
4. Sound damping mat
?. (No insulation?)
5. Floor chipboard
6. "Floor paper"
7. Floor
Then an important question! What do I do if the sill is NOT damp BUT is lying directly on the concrete? Do I ignore this since it hasn't become damp in 40 years? Or do I do something about it?
As should have been clear from previous posts, it is not suitable to use organic materials (wood, chipboard, cardboard, etc.) on an uninsulated concrete floor. Exceptions might be possible depending on circumstances in specific cases, but then one must be aware of these to be able to provide advice. Theoretically, one might be able to pour an insulated overfloor over the concrete, but it could have repercussions on, for example, surrounding walls, which must then be considered. Tiles over heating coils work well, as do plastic mats directly on the concrete and various types of vinyl flooring. Insulation should not be placed over underfloor heating, as this decreases its efficiency.
Syll directly on the concrete is not so good, but today can it perhaps dry out via the other three sides?
Syll directly on the concrete is not so good, but today can it perhaps dry out via the other three sides?
Hello!
A nice update, it resulted in a purchase!
We hired the inspector Joakim Becker, who did a very thorough and good job.
The sill along the outer wall has tar paper underneath it. Inside the house, there was no sign of any strange smell.
Our plan is to renovate the entire house, and the result will be an open floor plan, two bathrooms, air/water heat pump + electric underfloor heating where there is tile on the first floor. Horizontal white paneling and clearing of the garden
But the first priority is to get all the sheet metal work for the roof in order, renovate and fix a minor moisture damage in the bathroom on the first floor. And one bedroom so we can live there
I'm thinking of starting a new thread when we start the renovation, partly because I think it's fun to follow others and see how they solve challenges. But also a thread where I hope to get help from all of you more experienced than me!
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
A nice update, it resulted in a purchase!
We hired the inspector Joakim Becker, who did a very thorough and good job.
The sill along the outer wall has tar paper underneath it. Inside the house, there was no sign of any strange smell.
Our plan is to renovate the entire house, and the result will be an open floor plan, two bathrooms, air/water heat pump + electric underfloor heating where there is tile on the first floor. Horizontal white paneling and clearing of the garden
But the first priority is to get all the sheet metal work for the roof in order, renovate and fix a minor moisture damage in the bathroom on the first floor. And one bedroom so we can live there
I'm thinking of starting a new thread when we start the renovation, partly because I think it's fun to follow others and see how they solve challenges. But also a thread where I hope to get help from all of you more experienced than me!
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Congratulations on the house purchase, and good luck.