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57 replies
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57 replies
Question about insulation - getting more and more confused
haven't said that you need a vapor barrier?D Daniel 109 said:
But of course, you can have big problems with mineral wool insulation in that situation
Sure, you can. But people are overly afraid of shutting down conventionally built buildings.
Reverse moisture movement is mainly something that occurs in unheated holiday homes, right? Very extreme weather phenomena would be required for this to happen in a heated villa.
Regarding cellulose insulation's ability to absorb and release moisture, this is something that can be primarily positive in a cold attic, for example, and thus evens out humidity since it lies quite freely and openly. In a typical heated wall, air is transported from inside to outside, so the indoor moisture addition should be highly limited...
The only situation, apart from old houses, where a vapor barrier is technically preferable is in roof constructions without an air gap where drying inward might be needed at certain times of the year.
Regarding cellulose insulation's ability to absorb and release moisture, this is something that can be primarily positive in a cold attic, for example, and thus evens out humidity since it lies quite freely and openly. In a typical heated wall, air is transported from inside to outside, so the indoor moisture addition should be highly limited...
The only situation, apart from old houses, where a vapor barrier is technically preferable is in roof constructions without an air gap where drying inward might be needed at certain times of the year.
To cold-set an insulated building is to gamble with your hard-earned money.
+ 16 degrees is the minimum temperature for heating an insulated building.
Why? You don't want the dew point in the wall to end up on the wrong side of any vapor barrier/vapor check.
Completely cold-setting can cause the building's surfaces to start deteriorating due to moisture exposure.
Moisture-sensitive items like furniture can start to mold, etc.
But do what you think is best for you and your beliefs.
I rely on facts/experience from those who know what they're doing.
+ 16 degrees is the minimum temperature for heating an insulated building.
Why? You don't want the dew point in the wall to end up on the wrong side of any vapor barrier/vapor check.
Completely cold-setting can cause the building's surfaces to start deteriorating due to moisture exposure.
Moisture-sensitive items like furniture can start to mold, etc.
But do what you think is best for you and your beliefs.
I rely on facts/experience from those who know what they're doing.
It's pure nonsense.
The normal 15 degrees that are usually recommended by insurance companies are to handle power outages without pipes freezing.
There are plenty of summer houses that don't have electricity or are still shut down in the winter without the consequences you're mentioning. Insulation doesn't affect the house if there is no temperature difference across the wall.
The normal 15 degrees that are usually recommended by insurance companies are to handle power outages without pipes freezing.
There are plenty of summer houses that don't have electricity or are still shut down in the winter without the consequences you're mentioning. Insulation doesn't affect the house if there is no temperature difference across the wall.
If you are 100% convinced of this, then congratulations to you; I have a different agenda myself.D Daniel 109 said:That is pure nonsense.
The usual 15 degrees that are usually recommended by insurance companies are to handle power outages without pipes freezing.
There are plenty of summer houses that don't have electricity or are anyway closed down in the winters without the consequences you mention. The insulation doesn't affect the house if there's no temperature difference over the wall.
Approximately half is a timber frame with 45 mm mineral wool on the outside. The other half is a stud frame with 95 mm insulation. In the attic floor, there is about 15 cm of sawdust with a patchwork of mostly 95 mm mineral wool on top.
Timber frame .... just like the rest of Sweden's housing stock, right !useless said:
Apples and pears ....
How do you mean that it would make a significant difference in the context?
I think that if you don't understand the difference between a timber wall and a wall with mineral wool / moisture barrier / vapor brake yourself, I am enormously surprised that you are even commenting in this thread!D Daniel 109 said:
It doesn't really matter for the mineral wool walls that there is timber in the house. I would like an explanation as to why it is not comparable.