As the title suggests.
How do you attach the drywall so that there are no unevennesses in the drywall/wall?
I want to be able to paint/wallpaper later and it should be done nicely.
Today, 2/3 of the wall is plastered, then there is a gap about 20cm that goes in 1cm where the brick is, then there is a small part plastered again but it's not even with the other plaster.
Should I leave the walls as they are and just frame, but maybe skip setting a frame just where the brick is and just put a drywall over, but then there will be a small cavity behind?
How do you attach the drywall so that there are no unevennesses in the drywall/wall?
I want to be able to paint/wallpaper later and it should be done nicely.
Today, 2/3 of the wall is plastered, then there is a gap about 20cm that goes in 1cm where the brick is, then there is a small part plastered again but it's not even with the other plaster.
Should I leave the walls as they are and just frame, but maybe skip setting a frame just where the brick is and just put a drywall over, but then there will be a small cavity behind?
One alternative might be to plaster the wall with gypsum mortar?
If you're going to install gypsum, you should first use studs, then attach the gypsum to the studs, making it straight. However, the studs will take up some space, and there will be a cavity between the gypsum and the wall corresponding to at least the stud thickness.
If you're going to install gypsum, you should first use studs, then attach the gypsum to the studs, making it straight. However, the studs will take up some space, and there will be a cavity between the gypsum and the wall corresponding to at least the stud thickness.
Regla doesn't do much we have planned to do it now. But read in another thread that they suggested attaching the plasterboard with pl600 can you attach it directly to the studs then nail the plasterboard into the studs? So you attach the studs with pl600 on the wall then. I have tried to plaster it up but it just turned into a mess, everything fell down again so I'm giving up on that 
This is probably how I would have done it,
https://youtu.be/G4lmkcFNGrA
At a friend's place, there were a couple of Polacks plastering his basement walls in a similar way, and it turned out straight and good and is still there 10 years later.
https://youtu.be/G4lmkcFNGrA
At a friend's place, there were a couple of Polacks plastering his basement walls in a similar way, and it turned out straight and good and is still there 10 years later.
If the plaster falls off, the glue is unlikely to stick either, but that's probably because the prep work wasn't done properly
You don't need to attach the studs to the wall; you attach them at the bottom and top and then screw the plasterboards into the studs. No glue is needed.
If you still want to attach the stud to the wall, place a spacer between the stud and the wall if the stud is not flush, then screw the stud to the wall. But be careful not to let the stud bend inward when you tighten it, which can happen easily. In that case, you'll need to insert a thicker spacer.
You don't need to attach the studs to the wall; you attach them at the bottom and top and then screw the plasterboards into the studs. No glue is needed.
If you still want to attach the stud to the wall, place a spacer between the stud and the wall if the stud is not flush, then screw the stud to the wall. But be careful not to let the stud bend inward when you tighten it, which can happen easily. In that case, you'll need to insert a thicker spacer.
Hello!
I followed this when I renovated my bathroom.
http://www.norgips.se/Limguide
I also tried plastering with gipsbruk on a smaller area, but I found it difficult to get it right despite the plaster guides.
I followed this when I renovated my bathroom.
http://www.norgips.se/Limguide
I also tried plastering with gipsbruk on a smaller area, but I found it difficult to get it right despite the plaster guides.
Here is a pretty good description of methods and suitable products, http://www.knaufdanogips.se/index.p...yta-presentation/limning-av-gipsskiva-pa-vagg
Gypsum plaster is also very good as an adhesive but with the negative property that it cures in the bucket damn fast.
It's important to mix exactly the amount that you plan to use, preferably within 15 minutes, as after just over 30 minutes it has cured too much in the bucket. It can be challenging if you plan to put up several boards and have to mix several times, as proper cleaning of the mixing paddle and trowel is required; if you get old residues of gypsum plaster in there, it will hasten the curing process even more.
Personally, after several attempts, I now avoid gypsum plaster like the plague because the stuff is damn hard to work with, and adding a short application time to this makes it really tricky to achieve a good final result if you are doing pure plastering, i.e.
It's important to mix exactly the amount that you plan to use, preferably within 15 minutes, as after just over 30 minutes it has cured too much in the bucket. It can be challenging if you plan to put up several boards and have to mix several times, as proper cleaning of the mixing paddle and trowel is required; if you get old residues of gypsum plaster in there, it will hasten the curing process even more.
Personally, after several attempts, I now avoid gypsum plaster like the plague because the stuff is damn hard to work with, and adding a short application time to this makes it really tricky to achieve a good final result if you are doing pure plastering, i.e.