General reflection is that people have very different opinions on what is attractive and what is "correct." Mitered corners on moldings are clearly the most attractive...but not the only "correct" way. Unprofiled moldings can be joined in many ways...and straight joints in inner corners are basically the standard.
Nowadays when I hire someone...which is rare, I always create a detailed sketch on the computer that describes every detail and how it should be. Then, if the craftsmen in half of the cases haven't read or followed it...one can easily dispute the invoice by referring to the spec anyway...
Nowadays when I hire someone...which is rare, I always create a detailed sketch on the computer that describes every detail and how it should be. Then, if the craftsmen in half of the cases haven't read or followed it...one can easily dispute the invoice by referring to the spec anyway...
Most of it looks pretty bad. Some details are hard to judge from the pictures if it could have been done better. But that gap against the wall, at least as it looks in the picture, you probably have to accept if the wall is uneven. Otherwise, there's a risk of perforating the molding with nail plugs so it looks like Swiss cheese. To some extent, you can avoid the gap with well-thought-out nail placement. But the most common solution is probably to fix the gap with latex sealant and a bit of paint.
In places where moldings are spliced straight, you can see that this isn't done by professionals; they should be spliced at an angle, making the joints much less noticeable.
In places where moldings are spliced straight, you can see that this isn't done by professionals; they should be spliced at an angle, making the joints much less noticeable.
Image 1 It is hardly possible for it to look better with an improperly placed valve.
Image 2 Gaps cannot be fixed; instead, soft sealant is needed because the floor is not straight.
Image 3 The small piece should be addressed as it's likely just carelessness, possibly the corner is not perfectly straight. Regarding mitre cuts, they are not typically made in corners with straight moldings since corners are never exactly 90°. If it were a profiled molding, a corner with scribing could be done if desired, but that adds to the time and must be ordered separately.
Image 4 The corner should be rounded and soft sealed against the wall.
Image 5 The joint should have been mitre cut and soft sealed against the wall and ceiling.
Image 6 Soft sealing is needed; if the molding is damaged, it should be replaced.
Generally, it's important to specify if higher quality standards are required; pre-painted moldings should be painted at least once more after installation for high-quality finishes.
Image 2 Gaps cannot be fixed; instead, soft sealant is needed because the floor is not straight.
Image 3 The small piece should be addressed as it's likely just carelessness, possibly the corner is not perfectly straight. Regarding mitre cuts, they are not typically made in corners with straight moldings since corners are never exactly 90°. If it were a profiled molding, a corner with scribing could be done if desired, but that adds to the time and must be ordered separately.
Image 4 The corner should be rounded and soft sealed against the wall.
Image 5 The joint should have been mitre cut and soft sealed against the wall and ceiling.
Image 6 Soft sealing is needed; if the molding is damaged, it should be replaced.
Generally, it's important to specify if higher quality standards are required; pre-painted moldings should be painted at least once more after installation for high-quality finishes.
At least one coat, ideally, you should sand and apply a bonding primer since it's factory painted, and then finish with a topcoat. Just doing a final coat results in a streaky appearance as the paint doesn't adhere to the factory paint but almost gives a "beading" effect, i.e., it doesn't flow evenly across the surface (a bit off-topic).cecar33 said:
But back to the OP's question, I wouldn't consider this to be work done by a carpenter with any form of fine carpentry knowledge. Then again, one can always defend a job by saying it wasn’t ordered according to all the existing joinery solutions, meaning you as an orderer must hold a carpentry qualification. My opinion here is that the person inspecting the job, whether it was the owner of the company or not, should ask all relevant questions so that the customer is satisfied with the job. Here, a poor job was done from the start resulting in a dissatisfied customer. You can't expect an orderer to be familiar with different execution methods, so stand your ground. If they claim you didn't order according to mitering, counter by asking why they didn't inquire about the execution method.
Thanks for the good tips.cecar33 said:
But as a professional, you should tell your customer and try to find a solution. They said it could look nice...if they think this is nice, I would gladly come to their home and "beautify" it.
I will stand my ground! We had planned to paint and caulk the moldings to remove all the nail heads and marks from the gun. But it feels like the overall job just seems sloppy and thrown together. I wasn't given a chance to specify how we wanted it in detail since I only managed to speak with him for 10 minutes, and the next time I could reach him, everything was already done? It's strange they didn't even call me when they entered the apartment, and no one was home, one might think.AndersS said:
Before passing judgment on the carpenter who has been at work, please write what it came to cost. It doesn't look nice, I agree with that. But I would like to know the price of the work, it may have been a lack of time/consideration for the customer that made the carpenter take these shortcuts.
(And by consideration for the customer, I mean that it should go quickly so that the hourly rate would not be so high)
(And by consideration for the customer, I mean that it should go quickly so that the hourly rate would not be so high)
ekludde.
there are colored nail plugs. difficult to glue the floor moldings neatly.
there are frigolitlist for the ceiling that are easier to shape. and those can be glued
there are colored nail plugs. difficult to glue the floor moldings neatly.
there are frigolitlist for the ceiling that are easier to shape. and those can be glued
It might be that they are colored but I prefer regular plugs and loose screws that are also available colored that you can screw in and have control over how it turns out, hammering nail plugs into moldings seems violentSBH said:
Taken from byggmax.Elkludde said:Nail plug doesn't work well for delicate work, it's used for studs against concrete
"Nail plug is recommended when you want to make installations in more solid materials like concrete, lightweight concrete, brick, or hollow stone. With the nail plug, you can easily attach studs, skirting boards, cabinets, and kitchen furnishings. Drill through what you want to fasten and further into the wall, then drive the nail plug into place with a hammer."
