Need some tips on how to apply plasterboard on a slanted ceiling (45 degrees). Mainly thinking about how to achieve a neat, straight, and durable transition between the knee wall and the slanted ceiling. Do you need to cut the edges of both boards to join them nicely at the angle? Metal strip behind the plasterboard? Tape before plastering?
You are spot on with your own suggestions.
A metal strip on the back of the angle (there are foldable ones) or wooden battens. Joint tape in the seam.
The more precise you are when cutting the boards, the better, but the important thing is to mount the boards so you get a straight line. Feel free to use paper tape with a fold indication. They tend to be a bit sturdier and make it easier to get "straight" corners.
A metal strip on the back of the angle (there are foldable ones) or wooden battens. Joint tape in the seam.
The more precise you are when cutting the boards, the better, but the important thing is to mount the boards so you get a straight line. Feel free to use paper tape with a fold indication. They tend to be a bit sturdier and make it easier to get "straight" corners.
Yes, the difficult part will probably be to get the seam straight all the way. I guess you have to cut the edges of both sheets about equally to get the seam together as well as possible. Should you apply the strip with fabric glue and then putty widely on both sides on top?
If you've managed to get a straight seam, it doesn't matter if you've cut at an angle or something else. Having metal behind is good. Personally, I would use a latex sealant instead of filler. It can move with the house. Latex and then paint over is the way to go!!
Our upper floor was completely plastered when we moved in. Fairly poorly plastered with quite large gaps. Filled the gaps with filler and then applied paper tape over and then a few more rounds of filling. We have painted, and after almost two years, there are no cracks or other problems (except where I missed with the paper tape).
set glesen with 2 cm in between.
cut a piece of foldable sheet metal and fit it on both ends and make a mark.
take the chalk line and make a line for the top edge of the sheet. then screw it in....
finito and perfectly straight...
regards
snickar estwing
cut a piece of foldable sheet metal and fit it on both ends and make a mark.
take the chalk line and make a line for the top edge of the sheet. then screw it in....
finito and perfectly straight...
regards
snickar estwing
A tip is to take a surform and bevel the back of the drywall so that you get a perfect fit in the angle with minimal gaps. If you're going to have a trim at the top, it allows you to adjust the board there to make the second joint perfect. It's more challenging if both joints need to be perfect and visible, then it suddenly becomes a precise task and it's demanding with drywall. If you get a really good joint with just the plastering, I imagine that it suffices to fill the gap with something like tec7. A tip I picked up here is to first paint over the joint with lacquer paint and then with your wall color, which drastically reduces the risk of cracking.
I have personally used a foldable/perforated metal strip behind my transitions. However, the plastering hasn't always been perfect, so a lot of joint compound work. But with crack-free and good results in the end, though a lot of joint compound and flexible sealant gives a slightly rounded transition. Sometimes you may want a sharp edge, but that requires good groundwork!
I have personally used a foldable/perforated metal strip behind my transitions. However, the plastering hasn't always been perfect, so a lot of joint compound work. But with crack-free and good results in the end, though a lot of joint compound and flexible sealant gives a slightly rounded transition. Sometimes you may want a sharp edge, but that requires good groundwork!
Hi,
I am going to plaster the ceiling on the upper floor now.
I plan to screw the plasterboard across the battens and not along them.
The battens are spaced at 300mm centers and the distance between the battens is 230mm.
Is this enough to avoid potential cracks or should I reinforce with osb or metal strips between the battens?
I hope you understand what I mean.
Grateful for an answer!
I am going to plaster the ceiling on the upper floor now.
I plan to screw the plasterboard across the battens and not along them.
The battens are spaced at 300mm centers and the distance between the battens is 230mm.
Is this enough to avoid potential cracks or should I reinforce with osb or metal strips between the battens?
I hope you understand what I mean.
Grateful for an answer!