Hello
I am going to hang a drying rack in the ceiling in the laundry room. Gypsum ceiling with nailed fiberboard underneath. It's not certain that I'll find something to screw into. I saw somewhere a gypsum fitting that involved drilling a hole and then inserting a metal piece that tilts when it has gone through. The metal piece had nylon-plastic pins that guided it all. The end result was something resembling a classic lamp fitting, but in this case, the metal piece was not foldable in the middle. Does anyone know what I'm looking for?
I am going to hang a drying rack in the ceiling in the laundry room. Gypsum ceiling with nailed fiberboard underneath. It's not certain that I'll find something to screw into. I saw somewhere a gypsum fitting that involved drilling a hole and then inserting a metal piece that tilts when it has gone through. The metal piece had nylon-plastic pins that guided it all. The end result was something resembling a classic lamp fitting, but in this case, the metal piece was not foldable in the middle. Does anyone know what I'm looking for?
Can't you attach one (or two) appropriately long "beam/plank" to the underside of the ceiling and attach the rack to that? You should be able to find some beam to attach it to or use a "cluster" molly.Ellagård said:
Maybe not very pretty, but if you paint it in a "discreet" color, it might suffice in a laundry room.
These are the ones you mean Ellagård... SnapToggle
http://www.imexab.se/swe/snap_toggle.html
I would definitely advise against using Molly in the ceiling.... a drying rack can become very heavy when lots of wet laundry is hung up.... No, Molly is definitely not suitable...
http://www.imexab.se/swe/snap_toggle.html
I would definitely advise against using Molly in the ceiling.... a drying rack can become very heavy when lots of wet laundry is hung up.... No, Molly is definitely not suitable...
Thomas59
Construction veteran
· Stockholms län
· 3 326 posts
Thomas59
Construction veteran
- Stockholms län
- 3,326 posts
SnapToggle (M5/M6) can handle about 50 kilos of tensile load in 13 mm gypsum, I believe, so it might work if the drying rack isn't too large. However, wet clothes can be heavy, so I would probably recommend making some sort of reinforcement that distributes the load to the studs to which the gypsum is attached. A square plywood board (should be possible to find in the same thickness as the gypsum) painted white with beveled edges in a size that reaches at least two ceiling joists or spacing should work. Then you can attach the drying rack anywhere you want on the wood board.
Alternatively, you could cut away the gypsum and inset a wood board in the same way you would place noggings behind existing gypsum. With the gypsum removed, you'll see exactly where the studs are, so it doesn't really matter if you hit them when you remove the gypsum. If you fill and paint, the reinforcement will become almost invisible.
Alternatively, you could cut away the gypsum and inset a wood board in the same way you would place noggings behind existing gypsum. With the gypsum removed, you'll see exactly where the studs are, so it doesn't really matter if you hit them when you remove the gypsum. If you fill and paint, the reinforcement will become almost invisible.
Thanks milshaken - I've spent considerable energy Googling for those - without success!
Others: Thanks for the tips. I will conduct a small investigation of the roof and look for rafters. One thing I'm considering is installing an extra pulley on the wall, up under the ceiling. The elevator comes with two pulleys, one at each end of the elevator. Both ropes come out through one of the pulleys. This means that if you pull straight down on the ropes, there's 3 times the load on one of the pulleys. If you install an extra pulley on the wall, you can avoid this.
Others: Thanks for the tips. I will conduct a small investigation of the roof and look for rafters. One thing I'm considering is installing an extra pulley on the wall, up under the ceiling. The elevator comes with two pulleys, one at each end of the elevator. Both ropes come out through one of the pulleys. This means that if you pull straight down on the ropes, there's 3 times the load on one of the pulleys. If you install an extra pulley on the wall, you can avoid this.
Hehe... Ellagård.. Tomas59 and I had a little "Dust" about this very thing with snap Toggle, and rawl nut last week, so I remembered the thread and found it....
Thomas59
Construction veteran
· Stockholms län
· 3 326 posts
Thomas59
Construction veteran
- Stockholms län
- 3,326 posts
Missed that you had "träfiberskiva" under the plaster. What do you mean by träfiberskiva? If it's OSB/Plywood or similar, there shouldn't be any problems even if you don't hit a stud.
By "under" I mean just "under," i.e., it is a pre-painted, tongue-and-groove MDF ceiling panel (30x120) that covers the plaster. The problem with it, in turn, is that they were about to fall down, as the previous owner used small nails (small heads) during installation, and after 15 years, they have started to fall down... To solve the whole thing, I drilled small holes in the joints between the panels, injected construction adhesive, and then pressed the panel up against the plaster with a reversed clamp. Worked great, but now I'm having trouble finding the studs.
A potential reinforcement panel or extra crossbeam would therefore have been installed before I glued the ceiling back on
A potential reinforcement panel or extra crossbeam would therefore have been installed before I glued the ceiling back on
Thomas59
Construction veteran
· Stockholms län
· 3 326 posts
Thomas59
Construction veteran
- Stockholms län
- 3,326 posts
Ok. What I was thinking was that you could remove (e.g., with a multi-saw along the joint between the panels) a 30x120 panel (or part of it) and open the corresponding opening in the gypsum so that you can access the studs to attach a reinforcement panel of the same size (30x120) and appearance. I have a hard time seeing that you could secure the drying rack safely otherwise, given that you don't hit the studs.Ellagård said:By "under" I mean just "under," i.e., it is a paneled, pre-painted interior ceiling panel made of MDF (30x120) that covers the gypsum. The problem with it is that they were starting to fall down, as the previous owner used brads (small heads) during installation and after 15 years they have started to fall down... To solve it, I drilled small holes in the joints between the panels and squeezed in adhesive and then pressed the panel up against the gypsum with a reversed clamp. Worked great, but now I'm having trouble finding the studs.
A possible reinforcement panel or extra brace should have been put in place before I glued the ceiling back up
The easiest might be a professional stud finder. They should be able to find the studs.
Thanks for all the tips - now I know how it went
It went well. I previously tested my stud finder, a Zircon OneStep, on the ceiling without success. However, by slightly loosening a vent in the ceiling and probing with a wire, I was able to locate two studs (one on each side of the vent) in the middle of the ceiling. I already knew that the spacing was C-C 30, which allowed me to roughly mark out the two studs I needed to find, making it easier to interpret the information from the stud finder. So now the bracket is screwed with 5x60 wood screws directly into two studs. But it took quite a bit of pondering before I realized I could cheat a bit by loosening a vent.
It went well. I previously tested my stud finder, a Zircon OneStep, on the ceiling without success. However, by slightly loosening a vent in the ceiling and probing with a wire, I was able to locate two studs (one on each side of the vent) in the middle of the ceiling. I already knew that the spacing was C-C 30, which allowed me to roughly mark out the two studs I needed to find, making it easier to interpret the information from the stud finder. So now the bracket is screwed with 5x60 wood screws directly into two studs. But it took quite a bit of pondering before I realized I could cheat a bit by loosening a vent.