Hello!
How would you solve this; I am in the process of converting a garage into living space. The garage has a poured concrete floor with a slope towards the garage door. The garage door will be replaced with an exterior wall. But how do I deal with the slope on the floor? The garage area is 17 sqm. Self-leveling compound is expensive for that area, it seems I need to raise it by 2 cm since the garage is 5.72 meters deep.
Do you have any better tips for leveling the floor before laying parquet?
Best regards, Jeppo
How would you solve this; I am in the process of converting a garage into living space. The garage has a poured concrete floor with a slope towards the garage door. The garage door will be replaced with an exterior wall. But how do I deal with the slope on the floor? The garage area is 17 sqm. Self-leveling compound is expensive for that area, it seems I need to raise it by 2 cm since the garage is 5.72 meters deep.
Do you have any better tips for leveling the floor before laying parquet?
Best regards, Jeppo
17m2 with an average thickness of 1cm for the filler shouldn't be that expensive, just over 2000kr + possible primer. This must be the best solution, even when considering the price in the evaluation.
Hello and thank you for your response!
It will be click parquet flooring then.
I miscalculated. The garage area is 303x576 cm. The slope is about 1 cm/m. So over 576 cm, it's almost 5.76 cm, quite a steep slope in other words. How do I calculate how much leveling compound I need? But it seems like it will be quite a lot...?
Is there any filler material I can start with to remove a few centimeters?
Best regards, Jesper
It will be click parquet flooring then.
I miscalculated. The garage area is 303x576 cm. The slope is about 1 cm/m. So over 576 cm, it's almost 5.76 cm, quite a steep slope in other words. How do I calculate how much leveling compound I need? But it seems like it will be quite a lot...?
Is there any filler material I can start with to remove a few centimeters?
Best regards, Jesper
Thank you so much, helping a tired parent on a Friday evening... 500 liters, then, a 25 kg bag is mixed with about 5 liters?
How many bags do I need for 500 liters? How did you calculate 500 liters, by the way? I've been working with Pythagorean theorem, B x H, and everything else in the formula collection but calculating the volume of 303x576 with a slope of 5 cm over 5 m... = it's just spinning...
Right, water-based underfloor heating is embedded in the garage floor.
How many bags do I need for 500 liters? How did you calculate 500 liters, by the way? I've been working with Pythagorean theorem, B x H, and everything else in the formula collection but calculating the volume of 303x576 with a slope of 5 cm over 5 m... = it's just spinning...
Right, water-based underfloor heating is embedded in the garage floor.
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First area: 3.03m x 0.05m / 2 = 0.08sqm
Then volume: 0.08sqm x 5.76m = 0.43cbm
You probably need an additional 1cm to reduce the risk of cracking.
Extra volume: 3.03m x 5.76m x 0.01m = 0.17cbm
Total volume will be about 0.6 cbm, which corresponds to 600L.
Regarding how many bags that will be, I'm quite unsure, but I would almost think that one bag provides at least 20L? But someone is welcome to correct me here?!
Then volume: 0.08sqm x 5.76m = 0.43cbm
You probably need an additional 1cm to reduce the risk of cracking.
Extra volume: 3.03m x 5.76m x 0.01m = 0.17cbm
Total volume will be about 0.6 cbm, which corresponds to 600L.
Regarding how many bags that will be, I'm quite unsure, but I would almost think that one bag provides at least 20L? But someone is welcome to correct me here?!
You can start with something else first to save money. You can mix your own or buy ready-made coarse or fine concrete, which is significantly cheaper than self-leveling compound. It's just important that the layer of self-leveling compound is not too thin. Otherwise, it can crack. Check different brands and types of self-leveling compound. They specify what the minimum thickness should be. In my opinion, the concrete is not as critical. I believe the self-leveling compound "holds together" the concrete. If the concrete underneath were to crack, it probably wouldn't be noticeable.
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Thanks! The concrete is not as easy-flowing, is it? How do I ensure it flows evenly and becomes level? More water?
Best regards, Jesper
Best regards, Jesper
This is a typical example of when EPS cement is good.
It fills a lot at a reasonable price, and you can/should apply the floating layer immediately after.
Regular concrete should dry properly before applying the floating layer, so any shrinkage cracks occur before you float.
It fills a lot at a reasonable price, and you can/should apply the floating layer immediately after.
Regular concrete should dry properly before applying the floating layer, so any shrinkage cracks occur before you float.
won't it dry too quickly on EPS since there is underfloor heating in the garage?
Don't believe in the idea of EPS concrete in this case.
1. Too thin layers of EPS in the thinnest places
2. Needs to float 20 mm on top, so the cost ends up being almost the same as if you float the floor directly
3. Insulates the existing underfloor heating in the thickest places, resulting in uneven heat in the floor
You can indeed lay 14mm wood flooring directly, but it’s a bit strange with a wedge-shaped casting, and it’s not that simple to even get the EPS casting even, even if you have thick layers to work with and can steel it to a level surface. And if you want to lay a click floor, you need to make sure to have a fairly even subfloor; otherwise, you have to float it and then you end up with a 20 mm minimum.
There are no good shortcuts. Do it properly and float the entire floor directly; you can find cheap floor leveling compound at places like Byggmax, Hornbach, Bauhaus.
1. Too thin layers of EPS in the thinnest places
2. Needs to float 20 mm on top, so the cost ends up being almost the same as if you float the floor directly
3. Insulates the existing underfloor heating in the thickest places, resulting in uneven heat in the floor
You can indeed lay 14mm wood flooring directly, but it’s a bit strange with a wedge-shaped casting, and it’s not that simple to even get the EPS casting even, even if you have thick layers to work with and can steel it to a level surface. And if you want to lay a click floor, you need to make sure to have a fairly even subfloor; otherwise, you have to float it and then you end up with a 20 mm minimum.
There are no good shortcuts. Do it properly and float the entire floor directly; you can find cheap floor leveling compound at places like Byggmax, Hornbach, Bauhaus.
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Thank you so much. Do you need to vibrate self-leveling compound, or is it enough to just pour it out and leave it?
/J
/J