Can you do it like that? Or do you use a different fitting? Or do you do it in a completely different way??
I'm going to build a patio roof soon and there's no room vertically to place the beam on top of the support beam, so my thought was to put joist hangers on the support beam and then lay the beams a bit slanted in the joist hangers.
My question is if it's possible to do it that way, or if there's another usual method?
//Calle
I'm going to build a patio roof soon and there's no room vertically to place the beam on top of the support beam, so my thought was to put joist hangers on the support beam and then lay the beams a bit slanted in the joist hangers.
My question is if it's possible to do it that way, or if there's another usual method?
//Calle
Yes exactly... Maybe it wasn't obvious, but I had planned to do so...
Easiest way to calculate the angle of the miter then? I usually cut out a fitting piece in cardboard and use it as a template, but it should be possible to calculate? If you know the difference in height and the length?
Easiest way to calculate the angle of the miter then? I usually cut out a fitting piece in cardboard and use it as a template, but it should be possible to calculate? If you know the difference in height and the length?
The angle = tan -1 (opposite side / adjacent side).
Tan -1 is also called inv(erse) tan.
Example, the roof rises 40cm over a length of 200 cm
tan-1(40/200) = 11.31°
In the calculator in Windows, first choose the scientific calculator (not standard) if it hasn't already been switched to that.
And then check the "inv" box before pressing "tan".
i.e., calculate:
40/200 =
then inv + tan.
Tan -1 is also called inv(erse) tan.
Example, the roof rises 40cm over a length of 200 cm
tan-1(40/200) = 11.31°
In the calculator in Windows, first choose the scientific calculator (not standard) if it hasn't already been switched to that.
And then check the "inv" box before pressing "tan".
i.e., calculate:
40/200 =
then inv + tan.
Which sounds a bit little... what kind of roof are you planning to have?carlbanan said:
It's called Järbolite, corrugated plastic...
Will it be a problem? As mentioned, no snow from the roof will end up there...
According to the website, the minimum roof pitch is 2 cm/m (1 degree)
http://www.plastmo.se/produkter/trapetstak/järbolite-trapetstak.aspx
Will it be a problem? As mentioned, no snow from the roof will end up there...
According to the website, the minimum roof pitch is 2 cm/m (1 degree)
http://www.plastmo.se/produkter/trapetstak/järbolite-trapetstak.aspx
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Then it's fine!carlbanan said:
Yes, we'll see... It will be a somewhat flimsy construction. But it's probably only the snow that could cause issues?
As mentioned, there won't be any snow from the roof that can fall down, and there's a balcony above, so it's easy to access and clear it off...
Sent from my LT15i using Byggahus
As mentioned, there won't be any snow from the roof that can fall down, and there's a balcony above, so it's easy to access and clear it off...
Sent from my LT15i using Byggahus
The roof beams are 45x120, span 2.70 to the post, then 70 cm overhang from the post... The center-to-center measurement ended up being 80 cm (should be 99 or 120 according to the manufacturer to fit other products if one wanted to replace in the future).
In the roof beams, I notch out for sparse 28x70 which I screw the roof into... That's probably the weakest part...
In the roof beams, I notch out for sparse 28x70 which I screw the roof into... That's probably the weakest part...
It's mostly the glesen that feels a bit weak maybe... But I didn't want to take out any more in the rafters.... But we'll see if it still stands next spring 
I'm going out to bolt down the last post now, then start notching the rafters...
I'm going out to bolt down the last post now, then start notching the rafters...