Some time ago, I needed to build onto some roof trusses to create good junctions between three roofs as part of a re-roofing project.

Now it's time to tidy things up, and since I recently changed the paneling on the adjoining building section, it seems like an OK solution to put paneling a bit down on the gable to cover the unsightly gap between the old facade brick and the new level of the underside of the roof.

I will also clad the roof overhang and soffit boxes.

My plan is (see images for details):
1. Attach spacers (red box in the second image) to the outermost roof truss to line up with the outer side of the brick.
2. Attach a beam (yellow) at the top that extends a bit so I can clad the roof overhang by attaching some battens/paneling and paneling there later (I've placed a 45x45 behind the eave boards that will serve as the second attachment point for battens for the paneling under the roof overhang).
3. Attach vertical open cladding (purple)
4. Attach horizontal open cladding (cyan) as fastening battens on the horizontal ones
5. Install the paneling vertically

I have marked how far down the paneling needs to go to align with the underside of the future soffit box.

I will need to make an attic hatch and also cut for the ventilation's outside air intake; it might look OK by just letting the paneling be a little shorter right at the vent.

I envision that the gable paneling will be placed over the paneling on the adjoining section - a soffit box will also be built there. You can see a protruding part of the roof edge board at the far left in the image - it will be cut short so I can fit the soffit box there, which is a bit lower than what it will be on the right in the image.

Is this a good solution?

The house has a wooden frame with facade brick, so I've planned for the entire structure to hang from the roof truss to avoid putting stress on the brick - or should I attach the vertical battens to the brick to ensure that things stay where I want them and don't twist, etc.? There will be some extra weight on the roof truss, of course... It's 20 - 22 cm from the roof truss to the outer edge of the brick.
 
  • Side gable of a brick house with colored lines marking intended panel and beam placements for renovation, including vent and attic hatch.
  • Brick wall corner with colored lines and labels showing construction plan for roof and panel adjustments in building renovation project.
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Isn't it easier to just attach a cover board over the gap between the facade brick and the roof?
 
Oldboy Oldboy said:
Isn't it simpler to just attach a cover board over the gap between the facade brickwork and the roof?
There is another gable about 5 meters beyond this one where I have a panel in the "triangle" between the ridge and the eaves, so it might look a bit strange to have different solutions on two gables that are visible at the same time. These are two building sections that are connected, but the one I'm asking about has a smaller roof that is about 80 cm lower than the main part.
 
Ok.
Assuming the brick facade stands on the foundation wall?
The panel should probably be attached to the brick wall as well. I don't see why it wouldn't handle that.
 
Yes, the brick is on the base - then there's an air gap inside and then some inorganic board.

Maybe I should go ahead and fasten the vertical battens in the brick a bit lower.

By the way, I'm also considering applying some kind of strong adhesive on the underside of the roof's raw plywood where something needs to be attached against it, especially the beams that are yellow in my image, but maybe also the spacers. I'm thinking PL800 or perhaps something else, like Tec7's strong adhesive.
 
P Prosit said:
I am also considering applying some kind of strong glue on the underside of the roof's raw plank where something needs to be attached, especially the beams that are yellow in my image, but perhaps also the spacers.
How will that work with the moisture movements of the raw plank?
The glue will hold the raw plank differently than nails, right?
 
Hmm, maybe should have something elastic glue then - elastic in the shear direction but not in the tensile direction would have been best... :-)
 
If the facade can take the weight, then the roof only needs to keep the panel straight laterally, i.e., no significant load. Then should the beam/spacer going from the rafter over the tiles be enough?
 
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