Overlap asfaboard horizontally

[Arne999]

I was thinking of installing asfaboard, nail battens - vertical paneling on my log house

I came across the following tip:

http://www.tenico.nu/tips31.htm

....that you should seal vertical joints by stapling wind barrier and that for horizontal joints you should overlap. Is this common practice? It feels a bit strange, but I get the point...

Since I am working alone on all the replacement, I expect it to stand for a while without paneling, so I want good weather protection... I think stapling the horizontal joints seems a bit unstable...

 

[huggan]

The manufacturer of the asphalt board has installation instructions, which I recommend you follow. The most common is probably battens over all joints and behind.

 

[Arne999]

Read one of those and they said that all joints should be supported, no mention of overlap. It does feel a bit drafty not to have overlap so some form of wind barrier might be better after all.

 

[Mikael_L]

Rule behind scarf joint and battens in front to hold together sounds good to me. And in some places, you might have to solve it with battens on both sides.
That is, support and battens from the outside.
Windproofing/windbreak fabric seems like overkill to me, it's almost like doubling things with the same function.

I started nailing my asfaboard with long roofing nails, but then I decided to try the staple gun with narrow-backed long staples (6x25mm). It worked great and went super fast.
OK, the area that absorbs the force is much smaller than the head of the roofing nail, but I nailed three times as densely instead. Resulting in even more wind and weatherproofing.

 

[Arne999]

Thinking about maybe skipping the asfaboard and just going with wind barrier. I have an uneven timber wall, so it's a lot of hassle to get nice support along all the joints.

 

[Mikael_L]

I was thinking that maybe one should skip the asfabord and just go with wind barrier. I have an uneven log wall so it would be a heck of a task to go neatly along all the joints

Yes, why not. It should work just as well, except for the extremely tiny insulation that the asfabord contributes (can basically be neglected).

 

[Arne999]

But the experience with papp, however, is that it is easily damaged when assembling stuff.

 

[MaZtoR]

Windproof foil might be an alternative if you find the cardboard too fragile.
http://www.byggmax.se/isolering/byggplast-och-vindskydd/vindskyddsfolie-p17050

It is incredibly much stronger than the classic cardboard, but twice as expensive per sqm.

 

[orparn]

I used horizontal studding at cc120 when I added insulation. On top, the asphalt board was nailed horizontally without any extra sealing on the horizontal joints. For the vertical short edge joints, I used those plastic strips that are available to seal the joints on exterior gypsum. Since the asphalt board was slightly thicker and is also softer than the gypsum, I planed a strip on the backside of the boards' short edges, making it easier to fit them.
To prevent the asphalt board from bulging out too much, aside from the 12x45mm battens over the studs, I added an extra batten between them, fastened with a few nails through the asphalt board.
This is the type I mean: http://www.gyproc.se/produkter/stålprofiler/vindskyddsprofiler/tätningsprofil+h+13

I have personally seen examples of how it can look with leaky joints, etc., when asphalt board is mounted with cc120 without anything being used in the joints, and it has gaped quite a bit. I see two other alternatives than the sealing profile: inserting a piece of tongue and groove behind the joint and screwing it to the boards or placing a noggin behind the joint.