Hi,
I'm in the process of planning an extension and have talked to a couple of construction companies about the framework erection, etc. One company spontaneously said, "framework erection, exterior gypsum, roof and felt," while the next company says they never use exterior gypsum but asphaltboard instead because exterior gypsum is considered to cause moisture damage...
As a layman, what should I believe? Has anyone heard anything about this?
Best regards, Tobbe G
I'm in the process of planning an extension and have talked to a couple of construction companies about the framework erection, etc. One company spontaneously said, "framework erection, exterior gypsum, roof and felt," while the next company says they never use exterior gypsum but asphaltboard instead because exterior gypsum is considered to cause moisture damage...
As a layman, what should I believe? Has anyone heard anything about this?
Best regards, Tobbe G
I have heard that there are major problems with gypsum on larger construction sites. It's difficult to store them properly, so the boards get water-damaged even before they're installed on the house. Once they're on the house, they stay on for so long that the rain ruins the boards.
So it's not really a problem with the boards, but rather incorrect handling.
Are you planning to have a wooden facade? Why not use a windbreaker and skip the gypsum entirely? If you're using traditional insulation and not loose fill in the walls, the windbreaker (like Icopal Windy) is significantly cheaper than gypsum. I’ve used both on my house because I believed that gypsum was the cheapest. Completely wrong, of course, so the last facade got a windbreaker instead. Easier to install, cheaper.
So it's not really a problem with the boards, but rather incorrect handling.
Are you planning to have a wooden facade? Why not use a windbreaker and skip the gypsum entirely? If you're using traditional insulation and not loose fill in the walls, the windbreaker (like Icopal Windy) is significantly cheaper than gypsum. I’ve used both on my house because I believed that gypsum was the cheapest. Completely wrong, of course, so the last facade got a windbreaker instead. Easier to install, cheaper.
Hello,
IF the money is enough, we plan to plaster the house... If that item becomes too expensive, then we'll opt for horizontal wood paneling instead...
Best regards, Tobbe G
IF the money is enough, we plan to plaster the house... If that item becomes too expensive, then we'll opt for horizontal wood paneling instead...
Best regards, Tobbe G
I built my storage/carport with fabric based on tips from a carpenter, and after doing it once, there are no alternatives. It can withstand getting as wet as possible. It ventilates moisture out (like Gore-Tex) and is sufficient as an outer layer for up to a year.
But it certainly feels more substantial 
with exterior gypsum instead of wind barrier, and it serves different functions as well. Exterior gypsum protects against moisture and often has a function for the torsional stiffness in the construction.
with exterior gypsum instead of wind barrier, and it serves different functions as well. Exterior gypsum protects against moisture and often has a function for the torsional stiffness in the construction.
I used exterior plasterboard (Norgips) just because I knew the panel might be delayed, which it naturally was.....
It's difficult to put up and of course more expensive than fabric, but it really stabilizes the construction significantly
http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/bygget/bygg_5.jpg
When I nail up the panel, I replace my exterior plasterboard due to some black spots on the paper, but there's absolutely nothing wrong with the load-bearing capacity. Even so, the last plasterboard has been up since the fall of 2003, absolutely fantastic and a brilliant testament to the plasterboard's weather resistance! The supplier, however, only recommends an unprotected installation for a couple of months. That large construction projects can't manage their builds is no real news....
It's difficult to put up and of course more expensive than fabric, but it really stabilizes the construction significantly
http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/bygget/bygg_5.jpg
When I nail up the panel, I replace my exterior plasterboard due to some black spots on the paper, but there's absolutely nothing wrong with the load-bearing capacity. Even so, the last plasterboard has been up since the fall of 2003, absolutely fantastic and a brilliant testament to the plasterboard's weather resistance! The supplier, however, only recommends an unprotected installation for a couple of months. That large construction projects can't manage their builds is no real news....
I have extended with exterior gypsum. It works well. The facade was only open for about 1-2 months. I have plans to build a completely new house in the future, but then I will probably use asfaboard instead as I suspect it's easier to handle. I wouldn't want to use a wind barrier because it has less shear strength (even if you cross nail strips). At least I think so.
You talk about rigid constructions - in what typical house do you need the extra strength that plaster could add to the construction? If you have a wooden facade, there are still battens and paneling that secure the construction, and on the inside there are probably several layers of boards....
Outdoor drywall, as you say, really doesn't have any torsional stiffness capability in my opinion, not even in larger structures. Possibly for a short period it is somewhat stabilizing... But that's usually secured with cross bracing...MathiasS said:
"Locked" my frame with perforated metal straps during the construction period. I placed 145 vertical and then 45 horizontal, and between these layers, the perforated metal straps were placed and attached to all studs they passed on their diagonal paths.
Regarding the strength of boards (and some other OPINIONS)
I would like to say that boards are very hard to beat when it comes to shear strength. Saying that battens, studs, and facades can replace them is just nonsense. If you only have studs attached at right angles to each other, it can easily turn into a rhombus. All nails function more or less like hinges (stiff ones). Compare this with a triangle with hinges, it cannot tilt. Neither can a square with a board or diagonal bracing (it becomes an infinite number of triangles or 2 triangles). Look at old houses that even have plank walls, studs, and paneling (and possibly soft board). How crooked are these houses? And if one thinks they were built that way, why do the wallpapers in the corners tear?
Is all the strength needed (compared to nail bands or cross bracing)? Probably not, at least not in single-story houses. But in multi-story houses, it is probably good to have. From a construction standpoint, multi-story houses are often "card-like." The strength might not be necessary. But I believe that nail bands, cross bracing/diagonal studs can flex a little, unlike boards, which provide a rigid construction.
Then there are definitely disadvantages with boards and advantages with fabric. Weight, ease of installation, price, for example.
For MY own part, I believe I will be building in 2 stories and that I want to use boards as I absolutely want to reduce the risk of "flex" in the house. For me, it is important that everything is rigid and does not settle or flex over time or in real storms.
If I were to use fabric + nail bands, I would probably install so much and so meticulously that it would be just as easy to put up boards from the start
One should remember that a major storm can press very hard on a house. Moreover, a house should stand for a good hundred years. Who knows what the climate/winds will be like then, considering how quickly the weather seems to be changing.
I would like to say that boards are very hard to beat when it comes to shear strength. Saying that battens, studs, and facades can replace them is just nonsense. If you only have studs attached at right angles to each other, it can easily turn into a rhombus. All nails function more or less like hinges (stiff ones). Compare this with a triangle with hinges, it cannot tilt. Neither can a square with a board or diagonal bracing (it becomes an infinite number of triangles or 2 triangles). Look at old houses that even have plank walls, studs, and paneling (and possibly soft board). How crooked are these houses? And if one thinks they were built that way, why do the wallpapers in the corners tear?
Is all the strength needed (compared to nail bands or cross bracing)? Probably not, at least not in single-story houses. But in multi-story houses, it is probably good to have. From a construction standpoint, multi-story houses are often "card-like." The strength might not be necessary. But I believe that nail bands, cross bracing/diagonal studs can flex a little, unlike boards, which provide a rigid construction.
Then there are definitely disadvantages with boards and advantages with fabric. Weight, ease of installation, price, for example.
For MY own part, I believe I will be building in 2 stories and that I want to use boards as I absolutely want to reduce the risk of "flex" in the house. For me, it is important that everything is rigid and does not settle or flex over time or in real storms.
If I were to use fabric + nail bands, I would probably install so much and so meticulously that it would be just as easy to put up boards from the start
One should remember that a major storm can press very hard on a house. Moreover, a house should stand for a good hundred years. Who knows what the climate/winds will be like then, considering how quickly the weather seems to be changing.
Oh, that windbreaker isn't even windproof. At least not Icopal's windy, which is like a t-shirt in a cold breeze. The north wind doesn't stop until it reaches the vapor barrier... Also, the same windbreaker struggles to keep the insulation away from the outer panel, at least if you have 45s behind the tarp.
Also, the same windbreaker struggles to keep the insulation away from the outer panel, at least if you have 45s behind the tarp.I didn't have the slightest problem with that. I stretched the fabric properly and then had 22 mm lists outside, and it's still there where I placed it. In fact, I had Paroc's fabric, and it was both wind and waterproof back then. I used the fabric as walls during part of the construction period and used the future workshop as a cutting shed and material storage.
I didn't have any problems with the insulation. It's easy to stretch the fabric with battens. That it doesn't hold against the north wind I can live with - I have put wood paneling outside the windbreaker, and it dampens some of the wind...perkele said:And that windbreaker isn't even windproof. At least not Icopal's windy, which is like a t-shirt in a chilly breeze. The north wind doesn't stop until it reaches the vapor barrier ...