107,441 views ·
135 replies
107k views
135 replies
OSB or plywood behind drywall?
Diversearbetare
· Göteborg
· 11 228 posts
I have used it in some places, like paintings, TV mount, speakers, curtain rods, and stabilization of wardrobes.raveper said:
Diversearbetare
· Göteborg
· 11 228 posts
I have a chipboard wall of 11 meters with plaster on top that doesn't move visibly. So far, I have the opportunity to see it, but soon it will be covered. All chipboards are glued and screwed onto the underlying wood studs. All wood moves, yes. It's a question of whether it's even measurable sometimes. A plank floor can move significantly across the fibers, but barely noticeable ALONG the plank and fibers.SBH said:
Once again. A private individual who is not paid to put things up can very well pre-drill. I would do it in OSB and plywood too. The problem with chipboards is that the screw tip easily splits the backside of the chipboard, thereby significantly reducing the fastening depth. An OSB board can also split in the same way if the wrong screw is chosen, but the risk is smaller. It is tougher and has a less pronounced breaking point than chipboard. For a house contractor who is chasing costs and thus time, it's smoother with OSB. Just throw the stuff up.
What I'm trying to say is that chipboard is as useful as both OSB and plywood. It's about costs and function. An OSB board is, for example, almost always waxed, which makes it difficult to glue. Now it moves a lot, so in a wall, it becomes less of an issue, but for me, who wants rigid walls, glued and screwed chipboard is worth its weight in gold.
Diversearbetare
· Göteborg
· 11 228 posts
It's been a long time since formaldehyde levels were that high. Possibly on cheap imported Chinese boards. There was a case a few years ago where a building supply store had to return the stuff. The levels are now the same regardless of OSB, particleboard, or plywood. OSB is more environmentally friendly in production because it utilizes the ENTIRE tree in processing. 5% of the volume is glue and wax.Nimajneb said:
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Particle boards manufactured in Sweden adhere to the E1 standard, but there is a considerable amount of importation from Europe. (No one imports from China). In many European countries, E1 for construction particle boards (though required for furniture) is not mandatory, and there are also particle boards containing construction waste. This means there is still a significant risk of encountering unhealthy particle boards on the Swedish market. Most reputable dealers require an E1 board with a self-certificate as proof, but despite this, there is still too much junk on the Swedish market. The market is being cleaned up, and within a few years, we will likely be able to feel secure with particle boards.
Regarding the Formaldehyde considerations, one can mention, for example, ByggMax. According to ByggMax's product page for OSB, they use the supplier Moelven. On Moelven's product page for OSB, the manufacturer writes:
However, you can read a little more in the manufacturer's building material declaration for OSB in section 8 "Indoor Environment."
There you can read that "the formaldehyde content is less than 8mg/100g," which I assume the manufacturer considers as "Formaldehyde-free"...OSB products do not impose any limitations on the indoor environment, the low content of MUPF glue does not constitute a significant addition to health-affecting emissions. The glue's contribution in OSB products to health-affecting emissions is practically non-existent. The formaldehyde content is less than 8mg/100g.
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I know that, for example, Fiskarhedenvillan delivers house kits with chipboard or OSB (depending on what the customer wants), so feel free to call them.SBH said:
Floor chipboard is screwed and glued, shouldn't it be a problem if the chipboard moves, or is it only a problem with 12mm sheets?
I have an old house where there is sparse paneling, chipboard, and now with later renovation, OSB in the walls under 10-13mm gypsum boards. Once you've mounted, you don't notice any difference when attaching things to the walls, except that the damn sparse paneling is always at the wrong level. However, I have the habit of pre-drilling as the precision becomes better.
Since this is a forum for "homebuilders," we can mostly disregard aspects aimed at making professional construction more efficient, meaning a few seconds/minutes of time savings don't matter much, and it is usually functionality in parallel with cost that is decisive.
So in a regular home, I find it hard to see what could be mounted on a wall where the strength of the choice of material like chipboard, OSB, or roughcut would have any functional impact.
Today, I mostly use OSB, and the only downside is that it can give nasty splinters in your fingers if you neglect to wear work gloves when handling the boards, which you avoid with chipboards and even roughcut.
Since this is a forum for "homebuilders," we can mostly disregard aspects aimed at making professional construction more efficient, meaning a few seconds/minutes of time savings don't matter much, and it is usually functionality in parallel with cost that is decisive.
So in a regular home, I find it hard to see what could be mounted on a wall where the strength of the choice of material like chipboard, OSB, or roughcut would have any functional impact.
Today, I mostly use OSB, and the only downside is that it can give nasty splinters in your fingers if you neglect to wear work gloves when handling the boards, which you avoid with chipboards and even roughcut.
chipboard (also mdf) for flooring, cabinets, speakers
osb, plywood, and raw plank on walls. osb cheaper than plywood. not sure about the price of raw plank for walls.
you can use slatted panels on the ceiling for gypsum board/ceiling gypsum.
always keep track of how long it takes.
there’s always someone (the partner) at home who wants it finished as quickly as possible.
gloves should always be worn.
osb, plywood, and raw plank on walls. osb cheaper than plywood. not sure about the price of raw plank for walls.
you can use slatted panels on the ceiling for gypsum board/ceiling gypsum.
always keep track of how long it takes.
there’s always someone (the partner) at home who wants it finished as quickly as possible.
gloves should always be worn.
Horizontal 22mm tongue-and-groove chipboard, preferably glued in the tongue, then vertical plasterboard.
That's what I think because that's how I did it
Or should have done it because some ended up vertical when I thought wrong and I didn't glue it.
But it feels stable anyway
That's what I think because that's how I did it
Or should have done it because some ended up vertical when I thought wrong and I didn't glue it.
But it feels stable anyway
The original question was about which board is best to write on and attach things to without the risk of cracking with OSB. For my part, I use OSB for two reasons - 1) it is cheap, and 2) it might be a bit better to screw/attach to than particle board. But what about the risk of cracking and stability? I find OSB to be a flimsy and easy-to-tear material, and since it's waxed in some way, it can't be glued properly. Aside from how good it is to write on the board (which the question wasn't about), I have some sympathy for particle board. It's heavier and more rigid, and it can be glue-screwed to studs, making the wall really solid and stable. Single drywall is obviously completely lousy.