OSB!! Then the electrician will be happy. :)

On all the constructions I've been on (except budget builds with simple drywall), the carpenters have used OSB. Skanska uses OSB, and the construction company I fix the electricity for also uses OSB behind the drywall.

Plyfa is so hard that the screws almost break?

//Patrik
 
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plyfa is almost better to screw into. but as mentioned, more expensive.
never use plywood in woodwork class?
 
SBH said:
plyfa is almost better to screw into. but as said, more expensive.
never used plywood in woodwork class?
It's almost 7 years since I had woodwork. I have a hard time remembering what I did yesterday. ;)

//Patrik
 
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Why not råspont???????
 
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of course. with handkraft you can drive a screw into plywood.
osben is a bit slick so you'll need to aim more and use your whole body.

it's probably the assembly that argues against råspont, a bit more complicated.
won't achieve the same m2/h with råspont.
 
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Anything else that speaks against råspont other than time?
 
Snailman
p169suc said:
Why not råspont???????
I wonder too because I was thinking of using it - 17mm råspont... sävsjö trähus uses råspont but a thinner variant...

I guess you should make sure to have a little gap in the groove otherwise it might go wrong... if it were to swell...
 
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there will also be more joints in the wall that may start to creak
 
Snailman said:
I wonder too because I was thinking of using it - 17mm råspont... Sävsjö trähus uses råspont but a thinner variant...

I suppose you should make sure to have a little gap in the tongue and groove otherwise it could go badly... if it swells...
No gap is needed with råspont during installation as it provides some movement allowance when it dries properly. Additionally, it is the best to screw into, and it doesn't crack any plaster. Råspont can be continuously installed when it comes to interior walls that are plastered, with almost zero waste, it's the best there is.
 
SBH said:
yes. now never a screw just a load. the load pulls the screw both down and out.
Sure, but as you've seen in the link above, the particleboard can handle 258kg in vertical load and 124kg in tensile load. It's not clear from the Beijer link, but this has been measured by filling a metal cabinet hung up with weights, i.e., a particularly practical test that reflects reality.
 
Patrik_Hed said:
Plyfa is so hard that the screws almost break?

//Patrik
No, it's MDF that has that property if you use the wrong screw.
 
SBH said:
no carpenter uses chipboard in walls. if he does, then he's dumb in the head. I would never install a kitchen where the walls are chipboard and gypsum.
Well, I have at least six carpenters and a home manufacturer in my circle of friends who refuse OSB. Three of the carpenters assemble houses on a continuous basis. It's solely about quality assurance.
 
SBH said:
I would like to see the carpenter who installs chipboard in the wall. I would also like to know how the carpenter thinks.
You can also try putting a screw in chipboard, OSB, plywood, and raw wood.
Put your little finger on the crowbar to remove the screw from the chipboard
I will ask them again if you are really interested in an answer. Two of these carpenters themselves installed chipboard behind the plasterboard in the walls of their newly built houses. They used OSB as flooring.

As I said; the disadvantage of chipboard is that a screw hole should be pre-drilled if it is to have the same strength or better than OSB.
 
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Johan Gunverth said:
I will ask them again if you are truly interested in an answer. Two of these carpenters themselves installed chipboard behind the gypsum in the walls of their own newly built houses. They used OSB as floor covering.

As I said; the chipboard has the disadvantage that a screw hole should be pre-drilled if it is to have the same or better strength than OSB.
why didn't they use glue-free raw planking in their own houses?
 
Beijer Bygg's accounting is (just like before) a bit "interesting" considering they use chipboards at 1198mm to maintain 1200c/c with a 2mm gap, as a requirement. Where can one find these boards with the odd measurement?
Why does the manufacturer ByggElit state in their installation instructions that one MUST place the (1200-)boards flush against each other and that the short joints should be glued? Are the chipboards for wall mounting that Beijer writes about at all?
 
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