Hello!
I have purchased an apartment from the mid-seventies. The kitchen is original and will be torn out in favor of a new one.
The kitchen has a drywall (4-5 m long) that separates one of the bedrooms, which I assess is built with 1 x 13 gypsum on each side attached to a 45 steel stud. As I plan to have new base cabinets and possibly more wall cabinets on a track along the wall (part of the wall), I am beginning to realize limitations with the wall (50 kg of cabinets with porcelain hung on molly plugs feels less than ideal), additionally, the electrical outlets are few and those that exist are high up (intended for fridge + freezer, which will have a different placement in the kitchen).
I would like advice on whether the following work steps are wise/feasible to carry out, please comment in order.
1. Knock down the gypsum board (facing the kitchen) with hammer and saw, trying to unscrew existing screws in the steel track or alternatively cut them along the steel stud with a blade.
2. Install electrical boxes at desired locations against existing steel studs and run flexible conduits to a new junction box or existing outlet. As I understand it, this is a "gray area" regarding electrical safety regulations, so it is up to the individual electrician to decide if they want to connect.
- Can you run new conductors yourself in the tubes without connecting?
3. Screw 11 mm OSB (continuously along the wall side), 13 gypsum against the existing stud. Before I do this, I place "hole-in-one" pucks in the intended electrical boxes to later make neat circular holes.
- Should the joints between the plywood and gypsum be staggered?
- Do you need to pull noggings for extra reinforcement where you intend to have wall cabinets?
4. To improve acoustics between kitchen/bedroom, I additionally insulate with 45 stone wool. Is it worth it for a few dB or money down the drain?
5. I tape the gypsum joints with fabric tape, after this the painter takes over.
Any work steps I've forgotten or should consider?
Thanks in advance
Plymen
I have purchased an apartment from the mid-seventies. The kitchen is original and will be torn out in favor of a new one.
The kitchen has a drywall (4-5 m long) that separates one of the bedrooms, which I assess is built with 1 x 13 gypsum on each side attached to a 45 steel stud. As I plan to have new base cabinets and possibly more wall cabinets on a track along the wall (part of the wall), I am beginning to realize limitations with the wall (50 kg of cabinets with porcelain hung on molly plugs feels less than ideal), additionally, the electrical outlets are few and those that exist are high up (intended for fridge + freezer, which will have a different placement in the kitchen).
I would like advice on whether the following work steps are wise/feasible to carry out, please comment in order.
1. Knock down the gypsum board (facing the kitchen) with hammer and saw, trying to unscrew existing screws in the steel track or alternatively cut them along the steel stud with a blade.
2. Install electrical boxes at desired locations against existing steel studs and run flexible conduits to a new junction box or existing outlet. As I understand it, this is a "gray area" regarding electrical safety regulations, so it is up to the individual electrician to decide if they want to connect.
- Can you run new conductors yourself in the tubes without connecting?
3. Screw 11 mm OSB (continuously along the wall side), 13 gypsum against the existing stud. Before I do this, I place "hole-in-one" pucks in the intended electrical boxes to later make neat circular holes.
- Should the joints between the plywood and gypsum be staggered?
- Do you need to pull noggings for extra reinforcement where you intend to have wall cabinets?
4. To improve acoustics between kitchen/bedroom, I additionally insulate with 45 stone wool. Is it worth it for a few dB or money down the drain?
5. I tape the gypsum joints with fabric tape, after this the painter takes over.
Any work steps I've forgotten or should consider?
Thanks in advance
Plymen
Hello and welcome to the forum!
2. According to ESV, it's not a gray area, and you are not allowed to install boxes, run conduits, or wires according to them.
3. No need for noggings when you have OSB or plywood.
4. Insulation is good; otherwise, it could become a resonance box.
Ask the board for permission to make changes to their property, i.e., the wall.P plymen said:
2. According to ESV, it's not a gray area, and you are not allowed to install boxes, run conduits, or wires according to them.
3. No need for noggings when you have OSB or plywood.
4. Insulation is good; otherwise, it could become a resonance box.
Point 5, do you mean self-adhesive fiberglass tape or were you thinking of gluing paper tape?
Actually, regardless of the answer above, I would let the painter do it. It can mean many extra minutes for the painter to putty in the tape.
I usually use plywood instead of OSB. But I'm not a pro.
Actually, regardless of the answer above, I would let the painter do it. It can mean many extra minutes for the painter to putty in the tape.
I usually use plywood instead of OSB. But I'm not a pro.
Homeowner
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When I renovated my kitchen, I didn't use noggins but plywood. I screwed the drywall with offset.P plymen said:
Good luck! // Åke
Hello!BirgitS said:
Thanks for the great answers.
I will check what is stated in the association's statutes; I don’t think it should be a problem.
2. Regarding installing electrical boxes + conduits yourself, do you have any more detailed sources on that?
What would be the consequence if it goes "wrong"?
For non-load-bearing walls, you do not need the board's permission to renovate/modify. In surely 99/100 statutes, only load-bearing structures are mentioned. Otherwise, it would be tedious for members and the board to apply and approve every time people want to renovate.
It is considered electrical installation, described on ESV's website what you are allowed to do, which is not much more than replacing a socket or a switch with a similar one. It is important to know how to route conduits, e.g., bend radii, so that you can later pull wires through them and understand where there should be junction boxes, so everything is really good in the end. But if you can find an electrician willing, you can plan together with them, then do some work yourself, and the electrician does the final part. However, it is usually not easy to find one like that.P plymen said:
If you make mistakes, the electrician may refuse to finish the work without first redoing it themselves, which will be more expensive than if the electrician had done it right from the start. If you cause a fire, you may face issues with the insurance company and the association.