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11 replies
7k views
11 replies
Open up load-bearing basement wall?
I'm planning to expand my basement and wondering how to proceed when opening a door in a load-bearing outer basement wall. I thought I could frame around the hole with two vertical studs and one horizontal over them on both sides, securing them with bolts through the wall. Then I'd cut the hole and place a beam over it with two vertical studs under it. Would this work or how should it be done?
Sure, but it's probably still considered load-bearing. And how can you see that without opening the floor? See how the ceiling goes, but the floor joists could run in the other direction. However, the wall runs along with the roof trusses anyway.
I think the floor joists are going in the same direction as the roof trusses.
If they are running lengthwise, you might not need to reinforce at all. In my house, they (did this before I moved in) made this change without reinforcement. However, the opening is along the joist, meaning it's only the door's width where the support disappears on a lengthwise beam.
It might be worth bringing in an engineer for consultation.
If they are running lengthwise, you might not need to reinforce at all. In my house, they (did this before I moved in) made this change without reinforcement. However, the opening is along the joist, meaning it's only the door's width where the support disappears on a lengthwise beam.
It might be worth bringing in an engineer for consultation.
The cellar is built of blocks, not sure what kind. Could be hollow blocks. 1.5 meters of the wall is below ground and it is a one-and-a-half-story house with timber walls that have been plastered at a later stage. It is a gable wall. The hole will be 1-1.5 meters wide. But maybe more can be removed?
Now it sounds like you want to bring the whole car in!huggan said:
Creating an opening in a gable wall usually does not involve significant problems. The load from the trusses is handled by the long sides. If you also have a timber frame, it's quite stable. I think you can prop up the wall in the middle of your intended opening and then demolish what needs to be removed. If you then complete the standing studs, you can probably remove the prop and fit the beam in. I see no obstacle to making the opening larger, unless you end up beneath a heart wall on the upper floor.
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· Stockholms
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A stämp is a sturdy steel bar with support plates at both ends. The length can be adjusted with a screw and it is used to support walls and ceilings during construction. A temporary column, in other words.
Best answer
You can brace in two ways. Either you tear 20 cm of the wall straight down and place the brace and screw it up between the frame and the floor/sill. The second option is to remove a stone at the top of the wall so you can stick in a plank piece upright, then place a brace inside and outside to press up the plank. You might need to put a plank piece on top of it upright because the plaster probably goes a bit lower so you don't damage it. By bracing, you guard against settling when you're not sure what it looks like. No reinforcement is needed for a window. The bottom log acts as a sill, and it's unlikely there's a joint there in the middle of the window. But, the joint may be near the window and appear when you tear down the wall further. (Unless you have only one log in the bottom row). That's when it's good to have braced. You might need to add another one depending on how big the opening will be. Once you have made the hole as large as planned, you can screw down the brace a bit to see if it gives way. I don't think you with timber need to be afraid of something like that. With a jack under the brace, you can lift it if necessary. Hope it's understandable. It's hard to give advice when you can't see how it looks.
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