Open up in load-bearing wall, does it need to be supported?

[Mazen]

May have posted this thread in the wrong forum...

I am going to help a friend organize a small bathroom, a former pantry will be used with a new extension into the kitchen.

The wall that is intended to be removed is what I fear is part of the heart wall, so the question is whether it is possible to open up as much as intended and if so, what is required in terms of replacement?

The house is an old property from the early 1900s with walls of standing and lying plank.

Sketch of the house (not to scale), the heart wall is dotted, and the dotted line in the kitchen is the intended extension... Do you think it is possible to remove the smoky part?


Drawing and picture with intended extension marked.


Thanks in advance for all the knowledge and suggestions.

 

[justusandersson]

If there are both horizontal and vertical logs, I guess the outer walls consist of horizontal logs, probably 5x7 inches. If the partition wall is made of plank (tongue and groove timber about 2-3x6 inches), then a load-bearing arrangement should be a relatively simple measure. Most of it is already a doorway today. The exact approach is preferably determined once the timber is exposed.

 

[Mazen]

Thank you Justus. What I know is that the outer wall and the inner wall in the living room are standing planks 5-6 inches where all the surface layers have been torn down. The wall to the pantry is also not as thick as the others and is clad with beadboard on the inside. It will be interesting to see how it looks when we have torn down the surface layer in the kitchen and the beadboard. I will get back with more information.

 

[Mazen]

Update. Here's how it looks after demolition.
Two standing posts with only horizontal tongue and groove.



The plan is to open up in line with the light planks and put a crossbar between the posts.

Or what do you think? Could it even be possible to open all the way to the ceiling? I don't see any transverse beam in the wall.

The post on the left, is it possible to move it towards the wall or replace it with a new one to create a larger opening?

 

[Anna_H]

In my assessment, what I have marked in green is or could be load-bearing. The door frame and the transverse darker boards should be okay to take down. The horizontal ones I have marked are not certain to be load-bearing, this needs to be examined more precisely.

 

[Mazen]

Thanks for the response. It will be necessary to frame up a new wall towards the hall with necessary reinforcements. I have no doubt that it will hold since we are placing a brace of 120x120..

But what to do with this post? It's not completely straight, so I would preferably want to replace it and place a new one against the outer wall.. e.g., two 45x95 C24 screwed and glued..

What do you think about that?

 

[justusandersson]

I think Anna_H's assessment of what is load-bearing is correct. Then it would suffice to replace the post to the left of the door opening. The post to the right can probably remain? Two screw-glued 45x95 C 24 can certainly handle the load that might be in question with a margin.

 

[Mazen]

The post on the right will remain and be reinforced due to the new wall in the hallway and into the kitchen.
Good, thanks, then it will be a new post 2pcs 45x95 screwed into the outer wall...

 

[Anna_H]

If you carefully cut it with a handsaw, you'll notice if it pinches.
If the saw doesn't pinch, the post is not load-bearing, and you can just remove it.
If the saw does pinch, it might be load-bearing, then you should replace it with something that can bear the load, like those 2*45*95*.

 

[Mazen]

Thank you for the response and help with the issue.

The left one is newly removed (the saw barely pinched anything) and replaced with two 45x95 C24 glued together with a "beam" in the ceiling of the same. Also added a 45x95 C24 against the right post as one was anything but straight. So now we have a straight and stable opening for the planned shower doors.. just need to continue working on the new walls