Exciting project that can certainly be carried out as you wish. But I agree with many others here, seek help with construction drawings. This will most likely save you money in the long run, even though it costs a bit now.
Good luck, I will follow this and hope for many pictures.
Good luck, I will follow this and hope for many pictures.
Fun project, I would complement wood burning with thermal solar collectors so you don't have to burn for 6 months of the year. I've done a similar project for the last 4 years, but I started by moving a barn.
I don't think the beams are cut in the picture. This is part of the truss construction, looked exactly the same in my house.
Cool project. Really an inner dream of mine.
It will be a super fun project to follow.
My recommended sequence:
-Floor plan, I would choose to plan with the house's existing design. Mainly to retain the charm but also for economic reasons. Rebuilding the entire structure in an older style quickly becomes unnecessarily expensive. It is at this stage that you might need to involve experts for advice and calculation.
-Excavation, excavate inside to a suitable level and excavate around the entire house and add gravel, drainage, and roof drainage. No house benefits from having grass right up to the facade. Water and sewage also need to be installed.
-Cast slab, strong recommendation for waterborne underfloor heating, it adds minimal height, which you have little room for on the ground floor.
-Windows and doors to seal it off.
-Insulation, I am a bigger fan of external insulation but with masonry parts, internal might be more appropriate.
-Interior walls, furnishing
I don't want to sound boring, but it's a very good idea to bring in an architect. We're talking a lot of money to invest in the house, and it's much more enjoyable if you get the most out of it. Their job is not to decide for you; it's to design and create a home for you.
I wouldn't recommend doing this house bit by bit. After the house is a closed shell, you can shut off parts and focus on certain areas, but I just think it will be inefficient. Floor plan, excavation, and casting the slab should definitely be done first.
It will be a super fun project to follow.
My recommended sequence:
-Floor plan, I would choose to plan with the house's existing design. Mainly to retain the charm but also for economic reasons. Rebuilding the entire structure in an older style quickly becomes unnecessarily expensive. It is at this stage that you might need to involve experts for advice and calculation.
-Excavation, excavate inside to a suitable level and excavate around the entire house and add gravel, drainage, and roof drainage. No house benefits from having grass right up to the facade. Water and sewage also need to be installed.
-Cast slab, strong recommendation for waterborne underfloor heating, it adds minimal height, which you have little room for on the ground floor.
-Windows and doors to seal it off.
-Insulation, I am a bigger fan of external insulation but with masonry parts, internal might be more appropriate.
-Interior walls, furnishing
I don't want to sound boring, but it's a very good idea to bring in an architect. We're talking a lot of money to invest in the house, and it's much more enjoyable if you get the most out of it. Their job is not to decide for you; it's to design and create a home for you.
I wouldn't recommend doing this house bit by bit. After the house is a closed shell, you can shut off parts and focus on certain areas, but I just think it will be inefficient. Floor plan, excavation, and casting the slab should definitely be done first.
Fantastic fun project, keep the forum updated.
As an alternative to an environmentally unfriendly cast slab, I think you could excavate, lay out the floor beams, fill the foundation with Hasopor insulation, and then lay the floor. I've done it myself and it turned out just fine.
Then I want to immediately advise against a mass oven/fireplace in combination with an open roof. Generally, I advise against construction open to the roof, it's an idiotic solution where all the heat goes up there where you can't be, and if you have a loft it becomes boiling hot there while it's freezing cold down there. If you still want to have it open to the roof in some part, I can only recommend underfloor heating in that area, it alleviates the experience of living in a draft cabinet.
As an alternative to an environmentally unfriendly cast slab, I think you could excavate, lay out the floor beams, fill the foundation with Hasopor insulation, and then lay the floor. I've done it myself and it turned out just fine.
Then I want to immediately advise against a mass oven/fireplace in combination with an open roof. Generally, I advise against construction open to the roof, it's an idiotic solution where all the heat goes up there where you can't be, and if you have a loft it becomes boiling hot there while it's freezing cold down there. If you still want to have it open to the roof in some part, I can only recommend underfloor heating in that area, it alleviates the experience of living in a draft cabinet.
It's possible. But then there hasn't been any floor/upper level in that part of the outbuilding. And the large window opening that is flush with where such a floor was, was not a door onto this level.Mossen stefan said:
The floor structure was loose inside the house constructions in my case. So it doesn't rule out that they had a loft floor. You can see this in my link "flytta lada och bygga om till bostad"
Pitched roof works fine in my house with FTX ventilation that circulates the air.
If you're considering a masonry heater, you should read the blog below which has interesting information about them.
Felicia Oreholm http://www.sundahuset.se/ click on "Tags" Russian masonry heaters, Ekonomaka etc.
... and seek help from a structural engineer with calculations for sizing before you start demolishing/building. You'll quickly save on that cost by getting better / more durable / cheaper solutions.
Good luck!
Felicia Oreholm http://www.sundahuset.se/ click on "Tags" Russian masonry heaters, Ekonomaka etc.
... and seek help from a structural engineer with calculations for sizing before you start demolishing/building. You'll quickly save on that cost by getting better / more durable / cheaper solutions.
Good luck!
Construction calculations are a must if you need to apply for a building permit. My constructor claimed that all sheds would collapse when he calculated the old construction. I had to reinforce with steel beam constructions, steel bands between the exterior walls.
Self-builder
· Stockholm
· 10 302 posts
How's it going?