Hello!
We are in the process of installing a wood-burning stove in our living room. It's a plank house from 1934 where the previous residents at some point covered the outer/inner walls with 13 mm tretex and wallpapered over it (including the chimney).
Since the stove cannot be placed against a combustible wall, the tretex directly against the chimney must be removed and replaced with fireproof material.
My goal is a flush wall that will then be painted, with no moldings at the joint between the tretex/chimney.
I see two ways to solve this:
1:
Remove as much tretex as needed for the safety distance to the stove and glue up a 12 mm cimbrex minerit multi force board, which is then filled to make the wall flush/level with the remaining tretex.
2:
Remove as much tretex as required for the safety distance to the stove and then plaster/clay directly on the chimney to level with the tretex wall. (This is what the installation company offers. They are happy to plaster but do not want to fill boards).
The plan is to put renovation wallpaper on the remaining tretex wall but not on the chimney. Possibly 6 mm gypsum, but preferably avoid it.
What I'm worried about is the joint between tretex/renovation wallpaper and the board/plaster. If you plaster directly, I'm concerned the tretex might swell and crack at the joint.
Does anyone have any good creative input that doesn't involve tearing down the tretex on the entire wall?
Very grateful for answers!
We are in the process of installing a wood-burning stove in our living room. It's a plank house from 1934 where the previous residents at some point covered the outer/inner walls with 13 mm tretex and wallpapered over it (including the chimney).
Since the stove cannot be placed against a combustible wall, the tretex directly against the chimney must be removed and replaced with fireproof material.
My goal is a flush wall that will then be painted, with no moldings at the joint between the tretex/chimney.
I see two ways to solve this:
1:
Remove as much tretex as needed for the safety distance to the stove and glue up a 12 mm cimbrex minerit multi force board, which is then filled to make the wall flush/level with the remaining tretex.
2:
Remove as much tretex as required for the safety distance to the stove and then plaster/clay directly on the chimney to level with the tretex wall. (This is what the installation company offers. They are happy to plaster but do not want to fill boards).
The plan is to put renovation wallpaper on the remaining tretex wall but not on the chimney. Possibly 6 mm gypsum, but preferably avoid it.
What I'm worried about is the joint between tretex/renovation wallpaper and the board/plaster. If you plaster directly, I'm concerned the tretex might swell and crack at the joint.
Does anyone have any good creative input that doesn't involve tearing down the tretex on the entire wall?
Very grateful for answers!
Addendum: can I seal the tretex joint with something (if so, what?) so that it doesn't absorb moisture?
If it is not possible to achieve a smooth seam/transition to the tretex, I am prepared to extend the chimney with a fireproof board or build and plaster so the chimney protrudes from the wall.
Which is preferable?
Which is preferable?
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
Remove the treetex on the chimney and let it become a niche.
Furthermore, you should remove the treetex, it is flammable even outside the area of the stove.
Protte
Furthermore, you should remove the treetex, it is flammable even outside the area of the stove.
Protte