We will be forced to run a pipe through our masonry chimney since the masonry part is not sealed.
I would have preferred to slip-cast the chimney to maintain the radiant heat and the masonry's heat storage capacity.
Anyway, 3 chimney experts have looked at the chimney and all say that a pipe is my only option. They all say that the space not covered by the pipe must be filled with some insulating material.
However, I don't want the insulation to allow for some radiant effect. The chimney guys say that's not how it's done but have no answer as to why.
So my question is simply, do you have to insulate?
I would have preferred to slip-cast the chimney to maintain the radiant heat and the masonry's heat storage capacity.
Anyway, 3 chimney experts have looked at the chimney and all say that a pipe is my only option. They all say that the space not covered by the pipe must be filled with some insulating material.
However, I don't want the insulation to allow for some radiant effect. The chimney guys say that's not how it's done but have no answer as to why.
So my question is simply, do you have to insulate?
There could definitely be problems with future repairs to the chimney stack if, for example, you filled the gap with cement. A pipe does not last forever and it needs to be replaceable, and the insulation simultaneously supports the pipe.
Why is a pipe your only option? Have you received any reasonable explanation?
The chimney guys say that it is a too narrow channel with too many 90-degree offsets, making slip casting difficult. If you have other alternatives, I'm open to suggestions.
Regarding the installation instructions, that's what the craftsmen say. But are there any technical and physical thermal obstacles to disregarding the insulation? I can take on the manufacturer's responsibility by deviating from the instructions. But the question is: what more than an uninsulated pipe am I risking taking responsibility for?
Or are there other solutions?
Regarding the installation instructions, that's what the craftsmen say. But are there any technical and physical thermal obstacles to disregarding the insulation? I can take on the manufacturer's responsibility by deviating from the instructions. But the question is: what more than an uninsulated pipe am I risking taking responsibility for?
Or are there other solutions?
Pipes are not that easy to get through 90-degree turns either, but they surely have effective methods if they are willing to do the job.
The insulation (usually vermiculite) helps you get a better draft as the heat is retained, which somewhat compensates for the smaller channel area you get with insert pipes.
The insulation (usually vermiculite) helps you get a better draft as the heat is retained, which somewhat compensates for the smaller channel area you get with insert pipes.
Without too much knowledge on the subject:
If you extract heat energy from the chimney on the way up, it contributes to reduced draft (warm air is lighter), which you want to avoid. That and the risk of condensation are probably two reasons why you actually want a little heat out of the top, and therefore insulating the chimney is necessary.
If you extract heat energy from the chimney on the way up, it contributes to reduced draft (warm air is lighter), which you want to avoid. That and the risk of condensation are probably two reasons why you actually want a little heat out of the top, and therefore insulating the chimney is necessary.