Hello!
I am replacing the sink and cabinet in our bathroom. The walls are covered with some type of stone tiles, looks like marble but could be something else. About 10mm thick (roughly, thicker than regular tiles). I don't know what the wall is like behind, so I will adapt the mounting as needed. My question is whether the holes I make in the stone tiles should be larger than the screw going through? No matter how well I secure it, it will probably sag a bit over time, and then I'm thinking there's a risk of the screw coming into contact with the stone tile, risking cracks? Should I use some kind of support sleeve? They seem to be solid stone tiles, as I said, but I want to do it right from the start.
And if it turns out to be just gypsum, can I use regular gypsum anchors or are there special ones? Considering the collar that regular anchors have, it would be a very large hole to drill if the collar is to lie against the gypsum.
If you were to guess, how do you think the wall is constructed in a house from the late 70s? A well-built wooden house where no expense was spared during construction.
I am replacing the sink and cabinet in our bathroom. The walls are covered with some type of stone tiles, looks like marble but could be something else. About 10mm thick (roughly, thicker than regular tiles). I don't know what the wall is like behind, so I will adapt the mounting as needed. My question is whether the holes I make in the stone tiles should be larger than the screw going through? No matter how well I secure it, it will probably sag a bit over time, and then I'm thinking there's a risk of the screw coming into contact with the stone tile, risking cracks? Should I use some kind of support sleeve? They seem to be solid stone tiles, as I said, but I want to do it right from the start.
And if it turns out to be just gypsum, can I use regular gypsum anchors or are there special ones? Considering the collar that regular anchors have, it would be a very large hole to drill if the collar is to lie against the gypsum.
If you were to guess, how do you think the wall is constructed in a house from the late 70s? A well-built wooden house where no expense was spared during construction.
The crucial question is how the old sink was mounted.A Aderpale said:
The easiest way is to use the same mounting.
And if, for instance, the hole spacing doesn't quite match, you can possibly place a thick plywood board in between to "translate" the old mounting to the new one.
The old sink is attached at two points. It is held with threaded rods and nuts, I don't remember what these are called. Unfortunately, I don't know how it is attached to the wall behind the stone slab. I assume that the cabinet underneath takes the weight of the sink. The new cabinet is attached at four points, plus a couple more if desired. The sink is not attached to the wall at all. According to the description, it should be sealed with silicone to the wall and to the cabinet.KnockOnWood said:
Doesn't it state that in the building permit documents?A Aderpale said:
If you don't have them, they should be available at the municipality.
According to current industry regulations, for example, vanities should be mounted in stable wood (or concrete, etc.), either by having an OSB board behind the plasterboard or by putting a stud precisely where the attachment points should be. Simply attaching a vanity to plasterboard is not allowed, as there is too much risk that the waterproofing will not remain intact over time.
Has the bathroom ever been renovated?
Vanities with filled drawers, sinks plus someone falling over it or sitting on it would add a very large load. It is not recommended to attach it to just drywall. The current sink is likely fastened to studs or cross bracing. There are tools available to find hidden studs so you can see if you can use the existing studs to mount the vanity.
Vanities with filled drawers, sinks plus someone falling over it or sitting on it would add a very large load. It is not recommended to attach it to just drywall. The current sink is likely fastened to studs or cross bracing. There are tools available to find hidden studs so you can see if you can use the existing studs to mount the vanity.
Yep, it was renovated in 2011. Unfortunately, the guy who did the work is no longer with us. He, the previous owner, built the house and also renovated it. Apparently, he was a builder, and it shows in most of the work done. Anyway, if I'm the least uncertain, I'll use legs for support under the vanity. My amateur-level calculations also indicate that just drywall anchors won't work. Is there any stud finder that can be trusted? I've searched a bit myself and gave up that idea after a while.BirgitS said:
Things might become clearer once the old sink and cabinet are removed, but then it's kind of a rush to get the new one up
I want to prepare as much as possible before I tackle this.Ask in the subforum for tools, etc.A Aderpale said:
In 2011, I seem to recall that it was supposed to be noggings, studs, or wooden panels for all attachments according to industry regulations, but you can't be sure it's done according to them when an old builder has done it.
Anyone have thoughts on the actual drilling into marble? There was a leftover slab from the renovation and I would say it’s more than 10mm thick. If I get lucky and there's wood in the wall, is it enough to drill a slightly larger hole than the screw and then screw it in? I was thinking of using a lag screw if it's wood.
Marble is usually quite soft to drill into, so a tile drill bit works perfectly fine, without impact of course.
https://www.bosch-professional.com/se/sv/cyl-9-ceramic-kakelborrar-2593157-ocs-ac/ These, for example.
https://www.bosch-professional.com/se/sv/cyl-9-ceramic-kakelborrar-2593157-ocs-ac/ These, for example.