Hello!
I need help assessing whether it's possible to achieve a good result by mounting renovation plasterboard directly onto the current ceiling (see picture) or if I need to tear down and start over.
I was thinking about using construction adhesive on the plasterboard and attaching the ends of the plasterboards to the rafters???
The current ceiling is, I believe, made of masonite. It is mounted directly on the rafters, meaning there is no strapping/bar spacing.
Renovation is ongoing, and the electrician wants to pass pipes through the rafters, so I will need to drill holes in the ceiling past each rafter. The house has an almost flat roof, so it's not possible to crawl in the attic.
I need help assessing whether it's possible to achieve a good result by mounting renovation plasterboard directly onto the current ceiling (see picture) or if I need to tear down and start over.
I was thinking about using construction adhesive on the plasterboard and attaching the ends of the plasterboards to the rafters???
The current ceiling is, I believe, made of masonite. It is mounted directly on the rafters, meaning there is no strapping/bar spacing.
Renovation is ongoing, and the electrician wants to pass pipes through the rafters, so I will need to drill holes in the ceiling past each rafter. The house has an almost flat roof, so it's not possible to crawl in the attic.
Considering the height, renovation plasterboard is probably not a good idea, as it will sag between the rafters, and it doesn't have any real rigidity. Standard 13 mm plasterboard should have a maximum of 600 mm on the fastenings for wall mounting, and it will also sag in the ceiling with 600 C/C. So to install plasterboard on the ceiling, you only have two options: tear everything down and add more support between the rafters (typically 300 C/C in the ceiling) to secure them, which is a lot of work, or install battens from below at 300 C/C.
Is the ceiling sagging now, what is the thickness of the respective boards in the ceiling?
Can you say how far apart the rafters are, is it usually about 1 - 1.2 meters?
Then there is no real support to attach to, plain gypsum is only 6 mm and will certainly sag.
Can you say how far apart the rafters are, is it usually about 1 - 1.2 meters?
Then there is no real support to attach to, plain gypsum is only 6 mm and will certainly sag.
Member
· Västernorrland
· 12 029 posts
must be easier to tear down and redo. Least risk of being disappointed later too......
Hello!
Partly true, but the challenge is an open floor plan, so not only the kitchen but also the living room and entrance need to be remodeled as well.
The current panels are 22mm, and I can't find a combination except for 17 råspont + 6 repgips that would make it possible to replace only in the kitchen.
Partly true, but the challenge is an open floor plan, so not only the kitchen but also the living room and entrance need to be remodeled as well.
The current panels are 22mm, and I can't find a combination except for 17 råspont + 6 repgips that would make it possible to replace only in the kitchen.
Is the ceiling sagging now? Probably 22 tretex you have in the ceiling and possibly masonite on top for a smooth surface, Distance between the trusses?
If the existing sandwich history is well-secured in the trusses, I see no obstacle to gluing renovation gypsum. Based on the little I have worked with that thin stuff, however, it sounds troublesome to work with on the ceiling.
@Liteavvarje you probably misunderstood TS, hanging the gypsum directly on the trusses without any other backing was probably never an option.
@Liteavvarje you probably misunderstood TS, hanging the gypsum directly on the trusses without any other backing was probably never an option.
I understood that, but there are some pitfalls when it comes to fastening, hence the question and answer.Bernieberg said:
It's actually possible to set 17 mm raw board closely spaced as well, saving some mm.
But as you say, pure plaster is not fun to work with, it breaks easily, especially during ceiling installation.
It is two masonite boards with honeycomb-patterned paper in between. Modern for its time, one must say, and the same principle that, for example, IKEA frequently uses nowadays.M MagHam said:
They are quite strong and supportive, can be screwed in with long screws that go through everything, but be careful not to tighten too hard, as the screw can strip out the masonite since there isn't much material to fasten into, and the pure gypsum is thin, it quickly stops penetrating. Doubtful if it's possible to drive a drywall screw so that the head goes into the pure gypsum, but maybe on a 13 mm.