Old parstuga from the 1800s with an extension at an angle from the early 1900s. Water stood in an old root cellar resulting in the entire kitchen floor (trossbotten/torpargrund) rotting and taking with it 4 beams as well as the two underlying beams.
Everything replaced, drainage laid, including a drain. Plumber and electrics done while the floor was removed.
Now everything should be closed up, read here and other forums/links regarding the choice of trossbotten floor. Cellplast seems to be a generally good tip, any more? Other options seem like oil-hardened board (which is actually waxed?) or asfaboard - tips and ideas? If cellplast, is 70mm suitable or should one go up/down in thickness?
Unfortunately, there is no continuous cc, but the maximum distance is 600mm so "regular" trossbotten boards are out (55mm wide).
Installing underfloor heating (waterborne) and wooden flooring above trossbotten.
Everything replaced, drainage laid, including a drain. Plumber and electrics done while the floor was removed.
Now everything should be closed up, read here and other forums/links regarding the choice of trossbotten floor. Cellplast seems to be a generally good tip, any more? Other options seem like oil-hardened board (which is actually waxed?) or asfaboard - tips and ideas? If cellplast, is 70mm suitable or should one go up/down in thickness?
Unfortunately, there is no continuous cc, but the maximum distance is 600mm so "regular" trossbotten boards are out (55mm wide).
Installing underfloor heating (waterborne) and wooden flooring above trossbotten.
Hmm, few responses but I guess it's a relatively exhausted topic. I do have additional thoughts regarding the mentioned floor, insulation; sawdust or mineral wool? Sawdust dries, an advantage since there was previous water damage and it never feels wrong. But I have manually emptied the old floor of 30 sqm, if something needs to change in the future I'll go crazy.
Waterborne underfloor heating in PEX pipes, seriously considering moving away from previous budget solutions (with my own timber, etc.) and buying pre-routed boards from somewhere like XL bygg. Experiences? Seems expensive though.
Then the floor itself, considering the history it feels boring to install click flooring of any kind. A classic wooden floor would be nice, but with 35mm thickness, how much heat will I be losing to the crawl space then?
Grateful for opinions!
Waterborne underfloor heating in PEX pipes, seriously considering moving away from previous budget solutions (with my own timber, etc.) and buying pre-routed boards from somewhere like XL bygg. Experiences? Seems expensive though.
Then the floor itself, considering the history it feels boring to install click flooring of any kind. A classic wooden floor would be nice, but with 35mm thickness, how much heat will I be losing to the crawl space then?
Grateful for opinions!
Hello, we have a relocated timber house from the 1830s. We used råspont as a subfloor, a bit more expensive than other options, but it feels sturdier. We have plenty of space under the house, so we could nail it from underneath. Sealed with lerklining to prevent drafts in the insulation, then added cellulose fiber (the newspaper variant). In some rooms where we couldn't use old floors, we've installed pine floors of the economical sort and painted them with linseed oil paint, it looks quite OK, in my opinion. Floor heating under such thick wooden floors can be a bit questionable, both concerning the floors and heat loss (but I'm not an expert). Sectional radiators could be an alternative instead, I think they look pretty good in old houses.
Click here to reply