MSjöström said:
Addendum - it looks like it's black under the metal sheet in picture 2, is it a shadow or is it decayed there?
I ask the same question as Roland53 - what does the inspection look like?
Do you mean the silver metal sheet? If so, it's shadow and damp wood.
 
Your mistake is/was to accept the seller's inspection. You should always hire your own inspector.

However, this doesn't help you in this situation, so we have to try to reason our way to where the problem is and put a stop to it.

Unfortunately, I don't have any good suggestions to offer right now.
 
What is the foundation of the house? I'm wondering if the black could be a result of ground moisture? Of course, I see there is also leakage from the window, but it also looks like it could be coming from below.
 
roland53 said:
Your mistake was/is accepting the seller's inspection. You should always hire your own inspector.

However, this won't help you in this situation, so we need to think through where the problem is and how to stop it.

Unfortunately, I don't have a good suggestion to offer right now.
I understand it was foolish, but the realtor sold it so well, saying we didn't have to inspect ourselves and because we got a phone review, we thought it was OK. Easy to be wise after the fact!

If I manage to seal it so no more water comes in, is it enough to use a cabin heater and let it dry thoroughly, or do I need to do something more?
 
Jvona said:
The window in the picture is not the same as in the first pictures, the first pictures are on the 3rd floor so I couldn't take a photo. However, it looks the same there.
There's nothing wrong with the Eternit panel. It's a branch that's visible
Most likely, the sheet metal work is not as good on the window that's leaking as on the one you photographed. Can you not take a picture of the relevant window from the outside?
 
öringen said:
The sheet metal work on the leaking window is probably not as good as on the one you photographed. Can you take a picture of the outside of the window in question?
I can probably climb up a ladder tomorrow.

The thing is, it looks pretty much the same under all the windows on 2 sides of the house, i.e. those that have been exposed to driving rain, wind, and autumn storms.
 
MSjöström said:
What kind of foundation does the house have? I'm wondering if the black could be a result of ground moisture? Of course, I can see that there is leakage from the window as well, but it also looks like it could be coming from below.
It's a poured basement, but the pictures are from the bedroom on the 3rd floor, so ground moisture seems unlikely, right?

It has run from the window and seems to have gathered down at the baseboard.
 
Jvona said:
It's a cast basement, but the pictures are from the bedroom on the 3rd floor, so ground moisture seems unlikely?

It has run from the window and appears to have gathered down by the baseboard
You're absolutely right about that! I'll have to think further...
 
If you're going to change the facade and windows soon;

Equip yourself with a caulking gun and several tubes of appropriate sealant (silicone?) and apply it to all places where you suspect there are leaks allowing water in (on the outside!). Wait for a while and potentially continue with sealing.

You solve the problem temporarily even if it doesn't look very aesthetically pleasing, but hopefully, it will be tight until you do your renovation work.

Expose the moisture damage on the inside and let it air dry.
 
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Jvona said:
I understand that it was foolish, but the broker sold it so well that we didn’t have to inspect it ourselves and since we got a phone briefing instead, we thought it was OK.
But easy to be wise after the event!
Question:

Was the inspection transferred to you? So that you have the right to claim / insurance that should cover things the inspector should have discovered but missed.

Then not everything is lost.

Jvona said:
If I make it watertight so no more water comes in, is it enough with a cabin heater and let it dry out properly, or do I need to do something more?
You should probably aim for a dehumidifier rather than a cabin heater.
 
roland53 said:
If you're going to replace the facade and windows soon;

Arm yourself with a caulking gun and several tubes of suitable sealant (silicone?) and apply it to all places where you suspect there are gaps that let in water (on the outside!). Wait a while and possibly continue sealing.

You're solving the problem temporarily even if it won't be very aesthetically pleasing, but hopefully, it will be sealed until you do your renovation work.

Expose the moisture damage on the inside and let it air dry.
I'm heading out to buy a box of exterior caulk tomorrow, that should be the best, right?

I'll go ahead and apply it in all conceivable gaps, edges, and corners.

Aesthetics don't matter; as soon as spring comes, there will be new windows and wood paneling.

On the inside, I'll continue to tear away and expose everything that is damp and let it dry properly, a car heater and some convector elements might expedite the process?

Once the facade and windows are replaced, I'll restore the surface layers on the inside.

I don't need to treat the damage otherwise, like with boracol, correct?

Have I missed anything?
 
geekling said:
Question:

Was the inspection transferred to you? So that you have the right to make a claim / the insurance that should cover things the inspector should have discovered but missed.

Then not everything is lost.

You should probably aim for a dehumidifier rather than a cabin heater.
Yep, the inspection was transferred to us.
The report states the following:

Windows need painting.

Nothing more, nothing less.

Is a dehumidifier better?
How long do you run the dehumidifier?
 
When you are sure that the leak has stopped, it would probably be smart to check behind the inner panel and such to ensure there is no mold there.
I would probably replace moisture-damaged material to be sure, but drying out and using boracol also works.

There are companies that perform moisture measurements and drying, unfortunately Anticimex is a major player in this field and maybe it's not your favorite company right now?
 
roland53 said:
Once you are sure that the leak has stopped, it might be smart to check behind the inner panel and such to ensure there is no mold there.
I would probably replace moisture-damaged material to be sure, but drying and boracol also work.

There are companies that perform moisture measurements and drying, unfortunately, Anticimex is a big player in this field and it might not be your favorite company right now?
What do you mean by inner panel?
What is visible in the pictures is the wooden frame that I have exposed.
I'm not sure if I dare to make an incision in the frame.

It would be nice if drying and boracol were enough.

Anticimex can go to *censored*
 
Jvona said:
Yep, the inspection was transferred to us.
In that case, if the inspection is now written in your name, thoroughly read the papers to check the conditions of your inspection and how/where/etc. you should turn to make a claim. Specifically, the paragraphs about the inspector's commitments and responsibilities.

Jvona said:
Is a dehumidifier better?
How long do you run the dehumidifier?
Well, it collects the moisture instead of just moving it around, so the water vapor condenses somewhere else in the house and causes problems there.

Until it’s dry. :)
 
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