Hi!

I am going to replace the interior doors and frames (3 of them) and I have a question about whether I should change the size of the "hole" between the rooms.

I just removed the old door frames and will be installing new ones. It's a 60s apartment so odd dimensions; the width is 100cm and the height is 207-208cm. I want to install 9x21 doors (seems to be standard?) but my height doesn't allow it.

Question: should I cut into the lightweight concrete to get a height of 2100mm so I can fit the 21 frames, or should I go for 20 frames? The latter seem to be common in storerooms and basements.
 
If you have the opportunity to adjust the door opening to 2100 (with a reasonable amount of work), I think you should do it, it's always easiest to stick to standard. Then it's possible to squeeze in a 9x21 frame in a slightly lower opening. You can cut off 1-2cm from the top of the frame, and if you skip the threshold, you can also cut off the height of the threshold (9mm) from the bottom of the frame sides.
 
Thank you. I probably need a threshold as there is a gap between the parquet floor in the room and outside the room. I will buy a 9x21 frame and see if I can first fit it in, then saw. Lightweight concrete is not the easiest, but also not super demanding. I'm thinking of placing 70x45mm studs on either side of the frame to fill the hole. It's certainly easier to attach the frame to them instead of the concrete walls.
 
I had ordered doors that fit the openings!
Then, there is no reinforced lintel block over the door opening? I'm an electrician, not a mason, but I would be careful about cutting above the door in a masonry wall?
 
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MVJK
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We recently ordered custom-sized doors from Swedoor. It can be done with all their solid doors. Costs an extra 1-2kkr per door.

Can be ordered at e.g. XL bygg.
 
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MVJK
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Fotografen Fotografen said:
I would have ordered doors that fit the openings!
Then, there are no reinforced overdoor masonry blocks over the door opening? I'm an electrician, not a mason, but I would be cautious about cutting over the door in a masonry wall?
Thought about it, but I would like to install a "standard frame" in case the door needs to be replaced in the future.
 
Standard and standard - The range for 10x21 is not as large as 9x21, but there are some options if you look. 10x21 is just as much a "standard" as 9x21, but it's probably more common to use 9 module. I would probably install a 10x21 mostly because it makes it more spacious and avoids modifying multiple door openings. Cutting the frame and door 1 cm at the bottom will solve the height issue perfectly.

A 21 frame is usually 2085mm high.
 
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Nötegårdsgubben
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Quick update:

Cut away about 2-3 at the top of the "holes". Easy with a hand saw since it's lightweight concrete. Some reinforcement I had to saw off but no major problems.

After that, 45x70 studs on each side which I screwed in (with plugs) and glued on each side. Now need to fit the frame itself.

Overall pretty easy.
 
  • Doorway under construction with visible cut edges in lightweight concrete and wooden framing attached on the sides for structural support.
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Nötegårdsgubben
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Now it seems you already have it sorted out, but it was probably standard 10*21 frames you had. Hard to believe they would have used something special as late as the 60s. But maybe the house has settled a bit.
 
Possibly. We also laid parquet flooring on the linoleum mat that was under the laminate floor we removed, so that probably affected the height as well.
 
Now 2/3 of the doors are in place. Shouldn't have been quite so generous with the gap above the door, but I think it will be fine once the trim is in place.
 
  • A newly installed white door with a handle, showing a visible gap above it, awaiting trim installation to cover the gap.
The gap above is well covered by the lining without any issues, but what do you do on the sides? The linings aren't that wide to cover the entire beam, are they?
 
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MVJK and 1 other
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S Snappahaneklanen said:
The gap above is probably well-covered by the casing, but what do you do on the sides? Aren't the casings wide enough to cover the entire frame?
Thanks, I plan to put a strip over the joints and then skim coat everything when I spackle the wall. Then I'll paint everything and add the regular casing. I think it will work since the wall is 70mm and so is the frame.
 
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