make ceiling in garage at high elevation?

[camaro1969]

hi!

I have a 130 m2 garage that needs a ceiling.

The height to the ceiling is 4.5 meters.

It should be insulated.

The roof trusses are at cc600.

What construction would you recommend?

It will likely have surface-mounted electrical for lighting fixtures, etc.

 

[Snål-Jocke]

Simplest (??) and actually not very ugly in a space like a garage, I think ordinary white corrugated sheet metal, type TRP20, is. You can cover large areas quickly as well.

 

[camaro1969]

iof, but had actually thought of something plaster-like.

on the walls it will be iaf osb and plasterboard (won't wash in there)

 

[RiKr]

Sparse framing and plasterboard is well-proven, but I'm unsure if it will be difficult with such a high ceiling, mainly thinking about the maximum height of the drywall lift. Otherwise, smaller plasterboards 1200*600 where only the screw heads are filled.

 

[camaro1969]

I've been thinking about these smaller plasterboards, they're called kortplank, right?

I think it might actually be something. And quite easy to mount with 1 person, I guess?

I have a hard-to-move stand/platform that's 2x3 meters

so it would be great if you could get more or less finished before moving it on...

so kortplank absolutely, but it's quite expensive =/

 

[RiKr]

It is probably correct that they are called kortplank, and yes, the price per square meter becomes somewhat higher. But you also have to consider the handling, which is much easier with kortplank, and you also avoid having to plaster all the seams, which I think is worth a lot!

Couldn't you put swivel wheels on your platform? Costs a little but becomes very flexible.

 

[camaro1969]

you don't have to putty all the seams, so it's actually leaning towards short planks!

I've mounted wheels on my scaffolding, but you still have to prop it up if you plan to climb, otherwise they hardly hold..
it's 2 sections of steel scaffolding assembled with tension straps, so they weigh quite a bit.


but maybe it's time to start.

first plastic on the roof trusses

then spacing battens
but what dimension? 22x95?
centers??? cc300 should be good for panel width 600?

 

[maah]

22x95 cc300 will be good
I wouldn't have taken less than 95 width. If you have 95, you don't need to aim so precisely where you screw, which is nice when you're standing there with the board in one hand and the screwdriver in the other

 

[RiKr]

Since your trusses are so close together, you can definitely go down to a smaller width than 95, but as mentioned above, no risk of missing the wood.

 

[maah]

What does the cc measurement of the rafters have to do with it? If you have 95mm spaced battens, you have a 47.5mm bearing surface on each board to screw into.

 

[camaro1969]

It will probably be 95 wide... only costs a few more cents.

Is there a difference between formvirke and ytterpanel?
For example, at Byggmax, it seems they only have ytterpanel...

Which way would you place the plastic?

The garage is 9x14 meters.

The roof trusses are 9 meters on cc600.

I was thinking of placing the plastic in the direction of the roof trusses.

But practically speaking...

Can you cut the plastic first, say 9.5 meters long?

Staple it on one side and stretch it over to the other, or is 9 meters too long of a distance? Do you have to staple it as you go? It feels like it would be hard to get it straight and stretched...

The plastic phase is what I dread the most hahaha

 

[RiKr]

Isn't it common to screw the glesen perpendicular to the roof trusses? If it had been cc1200, I would have thought that 22*95 was on the small side.

 

[camaro1969]

What does the cc measurement on the rafters have to do with it?
If you have 95mm battens, you have a 47.5mm bearing surface on each board to screw into.

I guess if you had cc1200 on the rafters, the battens must be of a thicker dimension to prevent the roof from sagging?