I think I've got the flow sorted out now. Whether it's precisely adjusted I don't know, but it's clear that it sucks down smoke, even when I'm not running the fan at maximum speed.
I've checked the slab in a couple of places and it feels dry and warm.
Our 100 sqm ventilated floor is divided into 2 zones with 2 suction points in each zone.
However, the floors in the bathroom and hallway are not ventilated. But they seem to be laid on leka. It might be that there is tycktträ underneath.
Now, I plan to tear these up within a 2-year period, so we'll see... I've discovered now that I've pulled down the tretex in half the house, the wind barrier in the interior walls doesn't smell too great!
I've checked the slab in a couple of places and it feels dry and warm.
Our 100 sqm ventilated floor is divided into 2 zones with 2 suction points in each zone.
However, the floors in the bathroom and hallway are not ventilated. But they seem to be laid on leka. It might be that there is tycktträ underneath.
Now, I plan to tear these up within a 2-year period, so we'll see... I've discovered now that I've pulled down the tretex in half the house, the wind barrier in the interior walls doesn't smell too great!
Not to scare you... but it MIGHT be that the asfaboard has molded. We have the same construction as you, i.e., brick facade - insulation - asfaboard - and in our case, it had molded and smelled awful. We tore out everything, and now the smell is gone.
I read your thread about it! I'm planning to replace the insulation and asfaboard in the outer walls while I'm tearing things down anyway! Now that we've removed some old material where the smell was strongest, the odor has been reduced. When we've had friends staying here for 4 days, they haven't noticed any smell in their clothes when they got home.
We hired out the job - it wasn't possible to live in the house at the same time and finding the time to do it with family and three kids just wasn't there. They used fiber cement boards (cembrit) which were mounted with metal studs behind. And it was sealed properly at the bottom and top..M Matteg01 said:
That's exactly how our house is constructed. Is it a house from Myrsjöhus? We did the bathroom and laundry room later. There are 2 cast slabs in ours. With plastic in between and in the lowest slab, there is pressed cast-in wood for us. Are you taking everything from the outside now? Did you have a brick house?M Matteg01 said:
No, it's a Hjältevad house with bricks.Cillisa said:
No, it's from the inside, a real pig job! But now one room is demolished, the sill was broken in one place after a previous water leak from the window (dry now) I'm probably going to replace the sill where I can access it, maybe add insulation too since there's only 95 insulation in the walls.
I've submitted a sample of the sill, and even though it didn't look treated, it contained low levels of pentachlorophenol 0.78 mg/kg, so it's probably brushed on, but can it rot then?
It didn't smell more than rotten wood, nothing chemical.
But how do you access the "asfaboard" from the inside? We had a carpenter over who said it can't be done. It can't be fastened properly from the outside, so to speak... our sill only contained anisoles, i.e., what results when phenols break down. I think we had something like 2.4.6 chloranisole and 2.4. trichloranisole or something similar. We are about to remove our last one now in the small bathroom downstairs... thereafter there will be ionization as the air analysis doesn't show any phenols...M Matteg01 said:
You should probably remove the sill if it is brushed. The company we had over said everything must go...
Cillisa said:But how do you access the asfa board from inside? We had a carpenter at home who said it's not possible. It can't be attached properly from the outside, so to speak... our sill only contained anisoles, i.e., what remains when the phenols break down. I think we had something like 2.4.6 chloroanisole and 2.4. trichloroanisole or something similar. We're going to pull up our last part now in the small bathroom downstairs... after that, there will be ionization since the air analysis doesn't show any phenols...
You probably should remove the sill if it's painted. The company we had at home said everything must go.
The idea is to slide it behind the studs, remove the blocking, and then attach it with angle brackets and possibly glue it. We'll see if it's possible
Alternatively, install windproof sheathing if that's easier.
I understood it as the asfaboard is nailed from the outside so it can be removed but is difficult to put back again.. but good to hear that it's possible if it becomes relevant.A andost said:
Nothing.. the wall from the outside: brick, air gap, asfaboard, insulation 95mm, vapor barrier and building board.
Nothing.. the wall from the outside: brick, air gap, asfaboard, insulation 95mm, vapor barrier and building boardA andost said: