Lower the ceiling before or after wall construction

[Mlindahl]

I have a little question about how I should proceed

I will be lowering my ceiling to run electricity and hide it, and also for spotlights/lamps.

Then the space will be divided into 3 rooms. So it will be 2 walls + a small "hall" that will be built later.

What is best/easiest?
Lower the entire ceiling first or frame the rooms and then lower it afterwards?
We also want a smooth ceiling and it will probably be some type of gypsum.
Do you use cc30 in the ceiling so that it doesn't sag, or does 60 work?
It will probably be 90 gypsum, so I guess 30 is best anyway?

 

[justusandersson]

If you are talking about regular rooms, the interior walls should be erected before the ceiling. Otherwise, you will have walls that are not sturdy and a significant level of sound transmission between the rooms.

 

[Mlindahl]

Yes, they're interior walls for regular rooms.
Okay, then I should probably do the walls first and the ceiling later in each room.

Do you install spotlights in junction boxes, or do you run cables through conduits, and the spotlights have their own "box"?

I'm thinking about how much I need to lower to make room for everything. Initially thinking of using 45x45 joists in the ceiling.

And on the walls 45x45 + OSB and 12mm gypsum on each side. Then use 45x75 by the door openings to get a straight wall.

 

[justusandersson]

Your questions about the spotlights probably belong in the electrical questions section, where you'll get better answers. Presumably, the mounting method varies depending on effect and voltage (strong/weak). The necessary distance between the suspended ceiling and the regular ceiling is important to check.

An interior wall doesn't need to be heavier than 45 mm deep studs with OSB and gypsum on both sides. The problem is that a lot of 45x45 timber sold is of poor quality, with many knots and often crooked. If you can't get hold of good quality timber or don't have access to a saw to cut down to stronger dimensions, it's often better to increase the thickness. Personally, I would never choose a smaller dimension than 45x70 mm. A good method for someone inexperienced is to use metal studs as top and bottom supports and wooden studs as standing, lightly clamped in the metal studs.

 

[Mlindahl]

Your questions about the spotlights probably belong in the electrical questions section, where you'll get better answers. The mounting method likely varies depending on the power and voltage (strong/weak). It's important to know the necessary distance between the suspended ceiling and the regular ceiling.

An inner wall doesn't need to be thicker than 45 mm deep studs with OSB and gypsum on either side. The problem is that much of the 45x45 lumber sold is of poor quality, with many knots and often crooked. If you can't get good quality lumber or lack access to a saw to trim down thicker dimensions, it's often better to increase the thickness. I would never choose a dimension smaller than 45x70 mm. A good method for someone inexperienced is to use metal studs as top and bottom rails and wooden studs as lightly clamped verticals in the metal studs.

Have a small query.

The wall needs to go up between 2 windows and has space for approximately 24+45+24.
If you use 45x70 studs, do you place them with the 70 along the wall to get a narrower wall?

I will have difficulty using 45x70 studs with 70 as the thickness.

Hope you understand =)

 

[justusandersson]

There are some variants with different board materials, a bit depending on what type of surface finish (paint, wallpaper, etc.) you want to use. Otherwise, you'll have to place 45x70 the wrong way.

 

[Mlindahl]

Will check the quality of the 45 studs at the building supply store. But do you recommend using steel tracks on the floor and ceiling for someone who hasn't done it before?

 

[justusandersson]

It is actually easier with steel rails when it comes to aligning the floor and ceiling rails perfectly.

 

[Sir Duke]

It's actually easier with steel rails when it comes to getting the floor and ceiling rails perfectly aligned.

I can only agree, clicking in steel rails was probably the easiest thing I've done, it was the first room I built as a newcomer to the house.

 

[Sir Duke]

Yes, they are interior walls for regular rooms. Okay, so I should do the walls first and then the ceiling in each room.

For the spotlights, do you place them in junction boxes, or do you run them with cables in conduits and the spotlights have their own "box"?

I was thinking about how much space to leave to fit everything. I was considering using 45x45 studs in the ceiling.

And on the walls, 45x45 + OSB and 12mm gypsum on each side. Then place 45x75 at door openings to have a straight wall.

Regarding stud thickness in the ceiling, it's the spotlights that dictate that. They have their own height, and there should be air above and around them to manage heat. You should have a 30cm center-to-center distance between the studs, offset the seams, and screw tightly.

 

[Mlindahl]

The walls became steel rails in the ceiling and floor with 45x70 studs on cc30 to make them really stable. Almost done with them.

For the ceiling, I'm considering laying 45x45 lengthwise in the ceiling and leveling it, then sparse paneling 28x70, and as you said Sir Duke, to place them at cc30 to get the ceiling as even as possible.

 

[Mazen]

Regarding spotlights, there is Malmbergs Md-99 which can be mounted in an appliance box..
https://www.elbutik.se/product.html/malmbergs-downlight-md-99-led-5w-vit500ma-ip44