Hello,
I am going to lower the ceiling in the kitchen for recessed spotlights. The room has hard concrete in both the walls and the ceiling. The room is 3920 x 2910mm. The current ceiling seems to be quite even and level.
I've been advised to use 45x70 wooden studs that I attach with concrete screws directly to the ceiling. If I am to use wooden studs, how close should I screw them into the ceiling?
I was thinking about metal studs but might have misunderstood how they should be used. My thought was to mount primary studs on both long sides of the wall and then secondary studs S 25/85 which I insert into the primary studs. But here I suspect I may have thought wrong. Is it correct to do so, or are the secondary studs actually supposed to be screwed under the primary studs?
I am going to lower the ceiling in the kitchen for recessed spotlights. The room has hard concrete in both the walls and the ceiling. The room is 3920 x 2910mm. The current ceiling seems to be quite even and level.
I've been advised to use 45x70 wooden studs that I attach with concrete screws directly to the ceiling. If I am to use wooden studs, how close should I screw them into the ceiling?
I was thinking about metal studs but might have misunderstood how they should be used. My thought was to mount primary studs on both long sides of the wall and then secondary studs S 25/85 which I insert into the primary studs. But here I suspect I may have thought wrong. Is it correct to do so, or are the secondary studs actually supposed to be screwed under the primary studs?
I lowered the ceiling in my previous kitchen. I used 45x70 wooden studs and nail plugs. Regardless of whether you use concrete screws or plugs, you don't need to overdo the amount of screws. I would say about cc 1000, so if you screw the studs lengthwise (3920) it will be good with 4 screws.
I also glanced at metal studs but chose wood out of old habit. The advantage of metal studs is that there are already holes in them for cable routing.
I also glanced at metal studs but chose wood out of old habit. The advantage of metal studs is that there are already holes in them for cable routing.
A concrete screw from Fischer can withstand 160kg+ in concrete, and the deflection on a 45x70 batten is virtually non-existent at cc 1000 with ceiling plasterboard underneath.
NOTE! Not scientifically calculated, mostly based on common sense
NOTE! Not scientifically calculated, mostly based on common sense
How long screws are needed, is 90mm enough?maah said:
A concrete screw from Fischer can handle 160kg + in concrete and the deflection on a 45x70 stud is virtually negligible at cc 1000 with ceiling gypsum underneath.
Note: Not scientifically calculated, mostly based on common sense
depends a bit on when you get the screw to stick in concrete. it could be plaster or filler before concreteM Mattias_Jönsson said:
Have you completely removed the idea of sheet metal rules?
From what I can see, there is no plaster or filler before the concrete. There is an area where there were built-in wardrobes that I've torn down, and it is completely bare and at practically the same level as the rest of the ceiling, only the paint gives a very slight height difference.henke_benke said:
I haven't completely ruled out the idea of metal studs, I'm going back and forth on a lot
(total kitchen renovation)short plank or smooth plaster?
https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/total-elrenovering.311177/page-9
See Post #122
45x45 attached with spike plug 3 pcs / batten then scantling 28x70 where drywall will be screwed. Now you get an installation space for all electrical conduits.
See Post #122
45x45 attached with spike plug 3 pcs / batten then scantling 28x70 where drywall will be screwed. Now you get an installation space for all electrical conduits.