Hello!
I plan to make a large opening between the kitchen and the living room but I am unsure if the wall is load-bearing. Below I attach drawings of the house.
The red line marks the wall I want to remove and the blue arrow marks the direction of the floor joists.
If it's impossible to determine this based on the drawings, I would appreciate tips on how to proceed to answer this question.
Thanks in advance!
Jonas
I plan to make a large opening between the kitchen and the living room but I am unsure if the wall is load-bearing. Below I attach drawings of the house.
The red line marks the wall I want to remove and the blue arrow marks the direction of the floor joists.
If it's impossible to determine this based on the drawings, I would appreciate tips on how to proceed to answer this question.
Thanks in advance!
Jonas
Hello!
You can safely take down the wall you marked.
As you can see, the walls in the basement are not load-bearing due to their flimsy nature, so those above can't be either!
Additionally, the beams are parallel to the wall, which also indicates that you can just go ahead with the sledgehammer!
Best regards, AndersO
You can safely take down the wall you marked.
As you can see, the walls in the basement are not load-bearing due to their flimsy nature, so those above can't be either!
Additionally, the beams are parallel to the wall, which also indicates that you can just go ahead with the sledgehammer!
Best regards, AndersO
Today, I removed a load-bearing wall of ~85 mm (slender?) consisting of a frame of 45 mm standing tongue-and-groove timber and a layer of 15 mm lying tongue-and-groove timber + 13 mm board on each side. It's incredible how sturdily they used to build and a real h*****e to remove..anderso said:
(note: a laminated beam will go up instead)
I took it slow and methodically; the boards first with a crowbar. Then I removed the tongue and groove wood one by one, I wanted to salvage the material (thrifty). I made a cut with the circular saw just outside where the wood was nailed to the ceiling and floor. Each board was nailed with two 5-inch nails both to the ceiling and floor1971 said:
Recently tore down the last walls in the house. The reciprocating saw works okay... but I think the circular saw is better. The reciprocating saw is so powerful that the whole house shakes when you use it. It's easier to make a cut with the circular saw, but if it doesn't go all the way through, you can run the reciprocating saw in the same cut afterward.
Here are some pictures of the demolition (2005-05-30)
http://www.fasting65.se/byggdagbok/dagboken/dagboken_2005_maj.html
Here are some pictures of the demolition (2005-05-30)
http://www.fasting65.se/byggdagbok/dagboken/dagboken_2005_maj.html
Help!
Now that it's time to get started, I discovered that the floor joists on the upper floor run perpendicular to those on the lower floor (based on the floorboards on the upper floor). Does this mean that the wall is indeed load-bearing?
Grateful for a quick response as I plan to start very soon!
Jonas
Now that it's time to get started, I discovered that the floor joists on the upper floor run perpendicular to those on the lower floor (based on the floorboards on the upper floor). Does this mean that the wall is indeed load-bearing?
Grateful for a quick response as I plan to start very soon!
Jonas
It sounds extremely unlikely that the floor joists would be oriented the other way. Isn't it just that the floorboards on the upper floor are laid on top of another floor?
But, should it against all odds be as you believe, then the wall is load-bearing. In that case, you need to support it with the help of a beam (e.g., in laminated wood).
But, should it against all odds be as you believe, then the wall is load-bearing. In that case, you need to support it with the help of a beam (e.g., in laminated wood).
Thanks Bob and okay! I hope you are right!!! I will conduct a closer investigation and hope that the floor joists run in the same direction on both floors. However, what is strange is that the house was built in '29 and the wooden floor, which I believe is original, runs in different directions on the different floors. I am currently not at all satisfied with this... I will get back to you after I have inspected the direction of the floor joists on the upper floor through a small "inspection hatch" that I know exists...
Unfortunately, it seems that after all, the floor joists in our house are oriented in different directions on the different floors, making the wall load-bearing.
In the image below, you can also see how the ceiling is nailed to the floor joists on the upper floor...
It's fun to live in a unique house... sigh!
As you can see in the first image, I want a larger opening than the one that already exists and I guess it's just about ordering glulam, renting shores and a reciprocating saw, and getting started...
One question: since my joists cross each other, there will be a problem with relieving during the installation of the glulam beam. If the joists were parallel, one beam could take the load of a beam on the floor above with the help of a shore. In my case, one floor joist will take the full hit if I do it the same way. Do you have any tips on how I should proceed?
If you have any other tips and advice regarding this, I would gratefully receive them!
Thanks in advance!
Jonas
In the image below, you can also see how the ceiling is nailed to the floor joists on the upper floor...
It's fun to live in a unique house... sigh!
As you can see in the first image, I want a larger opening than the one that already exists and I guess it's just about ordering glulam, renting shores and a reciprocating saw, and getting started...
One question: since my joists cross each other, there will be a problem with relieving during the installation of the glulam beam. If the joists were parallel, one beam could take the load of a beam on the floor above with the help of a shore. In my case, one floor joist will take the full hit if I do it the same way. Do you have any tips on how I should proceed?
If you have any other tips and advice regarding this, I would gratefully receive them!
Thanks in advance!
Jonas
How high do you want the opening? On your drawings, it looks like you want a relatively low opening... not open to the ceiling.
You could place a K-24 beam or glulam beam under the purlin. If you live in Stockholm, I might be able to lend a few props...
I've done a couple of similar modifications in our house, and it's not exactly difficult or hard work - mostly fun actually.
To your detailed questions:
Preferably, place the props on a floor joist. If you don't know where these are, lay a long, thick beam on the floor to distribute the load. After all, there are no enormous forces you need to handle.
You should have four props, two on each side of the wall. Then you need some heavy lumber. Then it's a matter of methodical and precise work...
One question: what is above this upcoming opening? No bathrooms, I assume(?) There's always a risk that the floor sinks a millimeter when you make the modification... or that it rises slightly, depending on how careful you are.
You could place a K-24 beam or glulam beam under the purlin. If you live in Stockholm, I might be able to lend a few props...
I've done a couple of similar modifications in our house, and it's not exactly difficult or hard work - mostly fun actually.
To your detailed questions:
Preferably, place the props on a floor joist. If you don't know where these are, lay a long, thick beam on the floor to distribute the load. After all, there are no enormous forces you need to handle.
You should have four props, two on each side of the wall. Then you need some heavy lumber. Then it's a matter of methodical and precise work...
One question: what is above this upcoming opening? No bathrooms, I assume(?) There's always a risk that the floor sinks a millimeter when you make the modification... or that it rises slightly, depending on how careful you are.